Sound Deadening Overview.
http://www.icixsound.com/vb/article.php?a=1
That's a link to a pretty comprehensive sound deadening overview about application and types. How much etc etc. It's not perfect nor is it spell checked I don't think but all in all it's a decent resource for reading if you guys are interested in some of that stuff.
Just figured it might be a decent link of interest.
From Dyanamt.com:
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Name: Dynamat Bulk Pak
Contents: (9) 18"x 32" (9) 457mm x 812mm* pieces of Dynamat Xtreme
Application: Use on rear decks, doors, floors and the floor of your trunk to get more bass, more music, lower road noise and better sound.
Price:$249.95 US Retail
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Problems I have with Dynamat XTREME are 1.) how hard is was to get into the nooks and crannies 2.) how many times I cut my fingers/knuckles when cutting throught the fine aluminum heat shield layer and 3.) It gets much quieter in the car but the Sound Pressure Levels in the car are INSANE, you could seriously hurt yourself if you're not careful.
Oh yeah - and it DRASTICALLY REDUCES THE AMOUNT OF SOUND THAT ESCAPES THE CAR. Meaning, you can't hear squat if you're not in the car.
any and every single asphualt based mat based product I've ever used, including dynamat, edead, brown bread. The list goes on and on if asphualt based, if it breaks down. It smells. That's the downfall to the main layer of it. Including our own product keep in mind.
When heated to a certain point if asphualt breaks down. It smells.
Long story short. This is not a every case instance in the entire world. Your product if asphualt based has never heated up to a point where you would smell it...
It's wonderful the dynamat has worked well for you!
Last edited by mikee72; Aug 16, 2004 at 05:43 AM.
Put it in right and take your time installing it honestly is worth more than any amount of acoustic anylasis of loss or something to that effect. I'm sure there are those who will have a different viewpoint but it's probably to support their own label. That however is MY opinion and isn't going to reflect everyones viewpoint.
My approach to deadening is very simple. It's mass. Your adding mass. Find something that doesn't fall off, break away, break down, or rather deteriote under the conditions your going to use it in. and bam. Success.
If you want that type of reading honestly your better off going with someone who took the time to market it as something rather than a product you put in, and put in right to get results. We just don't do that. If we quadruple the price of it and people continue to buy it though I'd be happy to buy all the mics and do the readings over a few beers with some friends
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http://www.epa.gov/superfund/programs/lead/health.htm
Quite honestly concrete is going to be the top of the top as far as the 'best' deadener goes.
But companies need to walk a line between returns of product good, and downfalls. Most people just can't afford to add 500lbs to their cars and not care.
So the result is thinner (in most cases no thicker than 60mil) sheets or paint on style liquid where the user / installer can pinpoint areas where it may be a problem or need to be added.
People need to be able to deaden their vehicles without too much knowledge of the substance. Without any sort of health effects. Which is why I would guess more people don't just run to roofing materials, and that doesn't break away / has been tested proven to last.
Do you remember the brand name on that lead based product you purchased? I will be quite honest. I've never heard of it being used. But I also haven't been doing this for quite a decade.
Celebrating Lexus & Toyota from Around the Globe
My .02.
Different materials have different effects on different frequencies.
Ie. Certain higher frequencies can be absorbed into a porous cloth (ie. tshirt, carpet) etc etc. This is a large reason why dashmats in iasca and usac are so dreadfully popular right now. reflections are the devil! lol.
I actually had a discussion with a gentleman at Steel Valley this year regarding tuning the vehicle without the use of electronic equalization equipment where his car was built using different materials in different locations to change the responses in certain locations or 'physically equalize' the system. Very cool indeed.
What I believe this article is addressing is the generic point of sound deadening. aka, adding weight where it's needed. Not really attenuating frequencies. But I do see your point and I do agree. When used properly or improperly for that matter different materials can and will have different effects on the vehicles sound in certain respects.
However with generic mat, liquid, foam there has to be a point where we see the difference between mass and equalization.
I do agree!
My trunk lid is a little heavier but NOT 40lbs heavier. I bought the bulk pack and I thingk the whole package was 30-40lbs.
From Dyanamt.com:
-------------------------------------
Name: Dynamat Bulk Pak
Contents: (9) 18"x 32" (9) 457mm x 812mm* pieces of Dynamat Xtreme
Application: Use on rear decks, doors, floors and the floor of your trunk to get more bass, more music, lower road noise and better sound.
Price:$249.95 US Retail
-------------------------------------
Problems I have with Dynamat XTREME are 1.) how hard is was to get into the nooks and crannies 2.) how many times I cut my fingers/knuckles when cutting throught the fine aluminum heat shield layer and 3.) It gets much quieter in the car but the Sound Pressure Levels in the car are INSANE, you could seriously hurt yourself if you're not careful.
Oh yeah - and it DRASTICALLY REDUCES THE AMOUNT OF SOUND THAT ESCAPES THE CAR. Meaning, you can't hear squat if you're not in the car.
example.... If you want to limit the road noise, you should be using a BARRIER type of sound control material and not a visco-elastic damper like Xtreme. Barriers are typically a minerial loaded vinyl or a lead sheet with a decoupling foam, and it would go on the floor, firewall, package tray... anywhere you can get it to stay. This type of material literally stops sound from coming through it..
Visco-eleastic dampers should be used to improve the sound of the audio system... ie.. sealing doors, rear deck, roof, door skins and around the speakers.
You can get a lot better preformance out of your sound control purchases, if you get the right stufff to do the right job.






