All about Lexus leather
They supply the leather for many of the major nameplates. The dye transfer happens on them all.
You might want to try Leatherique's rejuvenating oil and Pristine Clean. I'm a big fan of the stuff and have been using it for several years. They're also pretty good to talk so just give them a call and ask for their advice.
http://www.leatherique.com/
Jim,
As for a different belt...You may be right. My black belt doesn't do it just the brown one..Huh?!? Weird...

It is an organic witch's brew with eye of newt and frog spit or something, but it really does work. You can tell, because you can feel its effects on your hands, it plumps up your own skin cells. And that's the thing with leather. Any petroleum or silicone based substance is not going to actually help the dermatology of your dead cow draped all inside your Lexus, at least the earlier ones that haven't been sealed away under urethanes.

First you apply with your hands and fingers, the Rejuvenator Oil that penetrates the dye and the leather itself. Close the car up and park it in the sun. This sauce will find the pores and it "sweats out" the dirt.

Then you immerse a fresh terrycloth hand towel with the Prestine Clean, and wipe down all the treated leather. This juice cuts through the oils and picks up the filth that you just can't believe came out of what you thought was perfectly clean looking leather. Buff with a dry cloth, no sticky, no shiny, no stinky.
Colin
Celebrating Lexus & Toyota from Around the Globe
I have attached a copy of Neil4Speed's photo with added arrows showing the areas I am talking about (hopefully Neil4Speed doesn't mind). The center part of the seat is okay.
The back seat and the driver seats are okay.
Last edited by chippern73; Feb 26, 2010 at 03:50 PM. Reason: Better Grammar
I have used LEXOL cleaner and conditioner. But the cleaner hardly cleans and the conditioner has made my leather feel like vinyl.. My leather is also starting to crack in one area.
I have no garage and the NM sun just burns even if its not hot.
Please guys help me out. Please tell me what to do and a link to what to buy.
I have used LEXOL cleaner and conditioner. But the cleaner hardly cleans and the conditioner has made my leather feel like vinyl.. My leather is also starting to crack in one area.
I have no garage and the NM sun just burns even if its not hot.
Please guys help me out. Please tell me what to do and a link to what to buy.
Here's a link to our site:
http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...que/Categories
I have attached a copy of Neil4Speed's photo with added arrows showing the areas I am talking about (hopefully Neil4Speed doesn't mind). The center part of the seat is okay.
The back seat and the driver seats are okay.
"Step 1. Vacuum the surface of the upholstered piece or interior well or use a soft brush to remove large particles of dirt, paying particular attention to seams, folds, and cracks.
Step 2. Apply the Rejuvenator Oil liberally (about 4 oz. per seat) with your hands; massaging the oil well into all the surfaces and natural folds of the leather, this puts natural ingredients, not harsh cleaner, back into the leather and forces out dirt. You may also use a soft sea sponge, or a soft paint type brush. One of our Rolls Royce friends, Chuck Hull of Simi Valley, California suggests a spray bottle, which can be purchased at the local home center. Also apply the Rejuvenator Oil liberally nearer the stitched areas as the conditioner will be able to migrate laterally well into the hide. Park the car in the sun with the windows rolled up to create a “steam room” for as long as practical, several hours or a day. In cooler weather, or for long-term storage in a garage, cover the seats with plastic wrap, and “warm” with a hair dryer. Or one of our Ferrari friends, Paul Hammer, suggests covering seats with large plastic garbage bags to be able to sit in the car and move it if necessary. (Allow the oil to be absorbed into the fibrous side of the leather before putting the top down in a convertible.) Direct sun is the worst enemy of any automobile interior or home upholstery. Do not place home or office leather upholstery in direct sun. For “cardboard hard” leather, several applications will be necessary. Patience will be rewarded with good results.
Step 3. After the ph correct proteins and collagens from the Rejuvenator Oil have permeated back into the pours and fibers of the leather, strengthening and nourishing them, the surface may be tacky, sticky, gritty, or have a white haze. This is simply the dirt, grime, air pollution, perspiration, salts and other toxins that have floated out of the leather to the surface. Apply Prestine Clean by putting it in a Spray Bottle then wipe off with a SOFT lint free cloth. For tough dirt or vinyl or vinyl tops, brush the cleaner into the grain of the leather or vinyl with a soft bath brush or toothbrush. Let stand for a few minutes, usually by the time you are done with the next piece, and wipe the surface with a soft, damp cloth Rinse the soft cloth in warm clean water, ring dry, wipe again. Then, after all the dirt has been removed, gently buff to a luxurious finish with a clean, dry, soft cloth. Your car or upholstered leather piece will appreciate the “face lift” and will have the new leather smell restored. Prestine Clean will not remove the conditioner permeated into the leather. This process may be used on MB Tex vinyl areas to soften and condition. Even flexibility on rubber window trim can be maintained with Prestine Clean."
I'm actually in the middle of doing my wife's 4runner today. The oil's got several more hours to sit before I get after it with the PC. I can't wait!!
Then once I get it back to where I feel it should be, I'll keep the leather treated. What do you suggest as a monthly treatment? I heard that Hide Care (use to be called Hide Food) is a good product.

chip








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