Dirty Headlight Housing...how to clean or fix

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Jul 18, 2009 | 11:34 AM

right RX

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From: Kentucky

Dirty Headlight Housing...how to clean or fix

Hi, does anyone know the best way to clean the "fog" look out of my headlight assembly? I don't know how they became so dirty.

Thanks

Jul 18, 2009 | 12:31 PM

trhs75

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From: Iowa

I know the auto parts stores carry "restoration" kits which polish out the clouding. I'm thinking Meguiar's (sp?) has one. Waxing my headlights makes them look good, but not for long. I think I'll have to invest in a kit.

Jul 18, 2009 | 09:18 PM

JohnLX300

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I have tried many of these so called kits. They all work......not for to long. I have been using this stuff called Scratch Out, it comes in a Yellow bottle. It sells at pep boys for about $5, but I got it at Wal-mart for only $2. My headlight last about 2 or 3 months ago and they are just starting to fog again but I still have about 10 applications left in this one bottle. Also, before I purchased my rx someone thought of the great idea of wet sanding my headlights....left a bunch of swirl marks in the headlight. Scratch Out got those out to.

Jul 18, 2009 | 11:17 PM

code58

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From: Ca.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnLX300

Wet sanding is what I always did to "clear" a foggy headlight. The difference is, you have to do it with fine enough paper (end with about 1000 grit) and then it needs to be buffed with a buffer and polishing compound. They come out shiny, like new. If they are kept waxed, they will last a long time. It's actually correcting the problem, not just putting a band-aid on it like most of the kits are. That's why most of them don't last very long.

Jul 19, 2009 | 05:23 AM

JohnLX300

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It seems like you have done this before? How did you do it? Could you make a DIY out of this? I came out wrong in the last post. I'm not against wet sandng, I've done it before. Longer process, and they do come out good as new. The Scratch Out, is the best quick fix band-aid that works well for me. What polishing compound do you recommend?

Jul 19, 2009 | 02:36 PM

code58

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From: Ca.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnLX300

John- I am very much aware that the average car owner neither has the equipment nor the knowledge to do the job the way I do. I have no argument with that. I always prefer to do things right the first time, because I don't want to do it over again for a very long time. I use a VSB (variable speed commercial buffer) and foam buffing pad so that there are no buffer marks left. I use a white Turtle Wax polishing compound (though the brand doesn't matter), which leaves a beautiful shine. I always put a coat of good wax (I like McGuires Gold Class- have the NXT, but like the Gold better) on when I'm done. There are those that say, yes but you remove the outer coating from the plastic. Is it better to leave the "fog" and retain the coating or have a clear lens? I think you know my answer at least. For the "average" car owner, I think the good "lens clear" products are a godsend, even if you have to reapply every few months.

By the way, when I wet sand, I start with about 500 grit if they aren't REAL bad. Next 600, then 1000. They can be buffed by machine after 600, just takes a little more buffing. Doesn't take long sanding each of these stages. If you were going to try polishing by hand, I wouldn't use anything but 1000, and probably wouldn't even recommend sanding unless you were going to use at least SOME kind of buffer.

Jul 19, 2009 | 05:25 PM

sktn77a

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From: Chapel Hill, NC

The key to this is the power buffer. I've used the hand-applied kits and rubbing compounds and they require just too much work to get it done properly. I think that's why most people find the kits to be short lived.