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Does anybody know if the UX 250h has an OEM amp? I know some Lexus models like the IS with the base system has a factory amp, but I can't find anywhere that says if the UX has one or where it is located.
I was told not to tap into the rear speakers if there is a factory amp, and to use the amp instead. Best case scenario is there is an amp in the trunk, and I could hook my powered subwoofer to the trunk battery and the trunk amp. In that scenario there would be no need for panel removals or anything.
Found this image at Lexus Parts and Accessories: https://parts.lexus.com/a/Lexus_2021...7410-8602.html ;
Looks like the 86160J in figure.2 is the central speaker, and the 86150 in figure.7 is the subwoofer?
Besides wiring, I guess it also needs the receiver, amplifier and multimedia of the 8-speakers system to make everything work?
Found this image at Lexus Parts and Accessories: https://parts.lexus.com/a/Lexus_2021...7410-8602.html ;
Looks like the 86160J in figure.2 is the central speaker, and the 86150 in figure.7 is the subwoofer?
Besides wiring, I guess it also needs the receiver, amplifier and multimedia of the 8-speakers system to make everything work?
Thanks for providing this. My car has the base 6 speaker system (no subwoofer or central speaker). It just has the two dash and door speakers (numbers 3, 5, and 6 in that diagram). I think the stock speakers/tweeters do the job for the mids and highs, so I'm having a powered subwoofer (Rockford Fosgate p500-12p) installed next week by a professional since I really have no clue what I'm doing.
I will be able to cut bass out of my stock speakers so they can focus on the mids/highs, and I think this will be a perfect setup. I will update this thread if anybody is interested. There's next to nothing online about this sub or about people upgrading their UX stock sound system.
I am also tinting my windows at the same time if anybody has questions on that. I've spent a ton of time researching both things over the last couple weeks. I'm going 35% front side windows (legal limit in my state for front), 20% rear side windows, and 20% rear windshield in a ceramic tint. My rear windshield does not have automatic wipers, so no issue there. My car is Caviar and the Black Line edition (black wheels and interior), so the tint is going to look great in my opinion.
Thanks for providing this. My car has the base 6 speaker system (no subwoofer or central speaker). It just has the two dash and door speakers (numbers 3, 5, and 6 in that diagram). I think the stock speakers/tweeters do the job for the mids and highs, so I'm having a powered subwoofer (Rockford Fosgate p500-12p) installed next week by a professional since I really have no clue what I'm doing.
I will be able to cut bass out of my stock speakers so they can focus on the mids/highs, and I think this will be a perfect setup. I will update this thread if anybody is interested. There's next to nothing online about this sub or about people upgrading their UX stock sound system.
I am also tinting my windows at the same time if anybody has questions on that. I've spent a ton of time researching both things over the last couple weeks. I'm going 35% front side windows (legal limit in my state for front), 20% rear side windows, and 20% rear windshield in a ceramic tint. My rear windshield does not have automatic wipers, so no issue there. My car is Caviar and the Black Line edition (black wheels and interior), so the tint is going to look great in my opinion.
any updates? Just took the system out of the mdx, possibly picking up the UX next week
I'm actually going to the shop today to have this work done. I'll have it ready to rock by this afternoon, barring any setbacks or issues they have. I'll let you know in about 8 hours.
I'm actually going to the shop today to have this work done. I'll have it ready to rock by this afternoon, barring any setbacks or issues they have. I'll let you know in about 8 hours.
ok, thanks. If you can find out what size speakers they are that would be great.
ok, thanks. If you can find out what size speakers they are that would be great.
I actually am keeping the stock speakers. I have the 6 speaker base system, and I think the mids/tweeters on the stock system are fine, especially when this 12 inch subwoofer is installed that will free up the bass focus of the stock speakers. I am not removing my door panels, so I will not know the exact size of the speakers.
Yes, I had a 12" powered subwoofer installed a few weeks ago, and it has made all the difference in the world. I turned the bass down on the head unit to 0 (middle), and the stock speakers actually sound pretty great when they do not have to push any bass. I am extremely satisfied with the overall sound. I'm a bit of a basshead, so I'd always like more of that, but this is a great balance between size of speaker (doesn't consume my whole trunk), drain on battery (30 amps, 500 watt RMS), and sound output. I originally thought I would replace at least the front speakers next, but I have no real desire to. The OEM speakers I have that came with the 6 speaker, non-ML system are good enough for sure with the added help from a subwoofer.
Was there anything specific you wanted to know or just get my overall impression?
Yes, I had a 12" powered subwoofer installed a few weeks ago, and it has made all the difference in the world. I turned the bass down on the head unit to 0 (middle), and the stock speakers actually sound pretty great when they do not have to push any bass. I am extremely satisfied with the overall sound. I'm a bit of a basshead, so I'd always like more of that, but this is a great balance between size of speaker (doesn't consume my whole trunk), drain on battery (30 amps, 500 watt RMS), and sound output. I originally thought I would replace at least the front speakers next, but I have no real desire to. The OEM speakers I have that came with the 6 speaker, non-ML system are good enough for sure with the added help from a subwoofer.
Was there anything specific you wanted to know or just get my overall impression?
Is this an amplified subwoofer and is it one of those space-saver ones that you can fit under seat or 'tuck' away somewhere? I'm looking for a similar thing.
Is this an amplified subwoofer and is it one of those space-saver ones that you can fit under seat or 'tuck' away somewhere? I'm looking for a similar thing.
It is a powered subwoofer, meaning the amp is built in. The ones that fit under the seat are normally 8 inches, and they help, but they are not nearly enough for what I want. I have a Rockford Fosgate p500-12p which is 12 inches. They make smaller ones (especially ones for trucks) that take less space, but the one I purchased is small enough for me. Plus it has quick disconnect features, so if I ever need to pack my trunk full for some reason, I can disconnect it very easily and put it inside my house.
Here is a list of powered subwoofers to get your research started. I would recommend anything by Rockford Fosgate or JL Audio, especially if you are going 10 inches or bigger. For Rockford Fosgate, anything ending in "T" is for trucks and will be a little smaller than the version without "T". I saw reviews for that 8 inch Kicker that goes under the seat, and people seemed satisfied with it for what it is. It all depends on what you are trying to accomplish. Just know that it is going to cost about $100 for decent wire, $150-250 in labor to run the wire if you're paying a shop to do it, either $30 or $100 (depending on quality) for a Line Out Converter (LOC) if you are keeping your stock stereo, and then the price of the unit itself. Research the improvements received by the under seat varieties and determine if it's worth it for you.
The folks at reddit/r/carav are very friendly and help people with car audio questions all day. I recommend getting OFC wire (real copper wire) instead of CCA wire (copper clad aluminum wire). It is 2 or 3 times as expensive, but it's definitely the way to go for long-term benefits. The size of the wire matters as well. Wire is measured in gauges, and the smaller the number, the larger the wire. When buying wire, look for wire measured in AWG (American Wire Gauge) which is a standard unit of measure. 4 AWG is going to be better wire than wire marketed as 4 gauge wire because they can deceive you on the size of the actual bundle of copper (i.e. they include the rubber jacket around the copper when they say size). On the topic of wire, go as big (low number) as the speaker you're purchasing can fit so you can upgrade later if desired without re-running wire. My speaker is designed for 8 AWG wire, but it doesn't hurt it to go bigger, so I went with 4 AWG. Now if I want to upgrade down the line, I won't have to pay to run larger wire through the car.
For the LOC, I went with the cheaper option ($30) instead of the $100. I don't know what difference in quality that led to, but I'm extremely satisfied with how mine came out.
Finally, I know the trunk of our UX's is extremely small. This is why I went with a powered sub vs a different setup such as 2 10" subs or 1 15". I can still fit grocery bags and normal day-to-day trunk needs with my sub in the trunk. I'd estimate it takes about a third of the space with the rear seats up in sitting position. If you don't care about trunk space and want to seriously bump music, just be careful if you have the hybrid battery. Too much draw from your amp/sub could harm your battery. If you have a hybrid, the rule of thumb is to keep the draw at or below 30 amperes (30 amps). The Rockford I purchased is exactly 30 amps, and the smaller version is 20 amps.
Let me know if you have any other specific questions, and I'm happy to answer to the best of my knowledge. I'm not an expert or anything, but I have a rudimentary understanding based on research over the past couple months.
It is a powered subwoofer, meaning the amp is built in. The ones that fit under the seat are normally 8 inches, and they help, but they are not nearly enough for what I want. I have a Rockford Fosgate p500-12p which is 12 inches. They make smaller ones (especially ones for trucks) that take less space, but the one I purchased is small enough for me. Plus it has quick disconnect features, so if I ever need to pack my trunk full for some reason, I can disconnect it very easily and put it inside my house.
Here is a list of powered subwoofers to get your research started. I would recommend anything by Rockford Fosgate or JL Audio, especially if you are going 10 inches or bigger. For Rockford Fosgate, anything ending in "T" is for trucks and will be a little smaller than the version without "T". I saw reviews for that 8 inch Kicker that goes under the seat, and people seemed satisfied with it for what it is. It all depends on what you are trying to accomplish. Just know that it is going to cost about $100 for decent wire, $150-250 in labor to run the wire if you're paying a shop to do it, either $30 or $100 (depending on quality) for a Line Out Converter (LOC) if you are keeping your stock stereo, and then the price of the unit itself. Research the improvements received by the under seat varieties and determine if it's worth it for you.
The folks at reddit/r/carav are very friendly and help people with car audio questions all day. I recommend getting OFC wire (real copper wire) instead of CCA wire (copper clad aluminum wire). It is 2 or 3 times as expensive, but it's definitely the way to go for long-term benefits. The size of the wire matters as well. Wire is measured in gauges, and the smaller the number, the larger the wire. When buying wire, look for wire measured in AWG (American Wire Gauge) which is a standard unit of measure. 4 AWG is going to be better wire than wire marketed as 4 gauge wire because they can deceive you on the size of the actual bundle of copper (i.e. they include the rubber jacket around the copper when they say size). On the topic of wire, go as big (low number) as the speaker you're purchasing can fit so you can upgrade later if desired without re-running wire. My speaker is designed for 8 AWG wire, but it doesn't hurt it to go bigger, so I went with 4 AWG. Now if I want to upgrade down the line, I won't have to pay to run larger wire through the car.
For the LOC, I went with the cheaper option ($30) instead of the $100. I don't know what difference in quality that led to, but I'm extremely satisfied with how mine came out.
Finally, I know the trunk of our UX's is extremely small. This is why I went with a powered sub vs a different setup such as 2 10" subs or 1 15". I can still fit grocery bags and normal day-to-day trunk needs with my sub in the trunk. I'd estimate it takes about a third of the space with the rear seats up in sitting position. If you don't care about trunk space and want to seriously bump music, just be careful if you have the hybrid battery. Too much draw from your amp/sub could harm your battery. If you have a hybrid, the rule of thumb is to keep the draw at or below 30 amperes (30 amps). The Rockford I purchased is exactly 30 amps, and the smaller version is 20 amps.
Let me know if you have any other specific questions, and I'm happy to answer to the best of my knowledge. I'm not an expert or anything, but I have a rudimentary understanding based on research over the past couple months.
This is what it looks like in my UX if you want to reference the size.
Thanks, yeah I've typically run JL Audio in my previous vehicles. No complaints.Good info on the hybrid battery amperage draw. For me I am sure 8" is enough.
Thanks, yeah I've typically run JL Audio in my previous vehicles. No complaints.Good info on the hybrid battery amperage draw. For me I am sure 8" is enough.
