help w/ rear Daizen sway bar installation
#1
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
help w/ rear Daizen sway bar installation
I had no problem installing the front Daizen sway bar. However, I could not get the rear Daizen sway bar in. The problem is that the rear Daizen sway bar is longer than the stock sway bar by about 1 1/2 inches (or 1.5"). This extra length gave me no room to place one of the sway bar end into the ball joint (not sure what it called where the end of the sway bar with holes is attached to). The rear spring blocked the movement of the ball joint. Does this mean I have to remove the spring too? . I hope not. Does anyone has the same problem? How did you solve it? Or am I getting the wrong rear Daizen sway bar? The Daizen sway bars are red color with Daizen tag at the middle of each of the bar. PLEASE HELP. Thank all in advance.
Oh, the installation is for 2000 Lexus GS400.
Hung.
Oh, the installation is for 2000 Lexus GS400.
Hung.
#2
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
did you reverse the sway bar end links like todd at tm and the instructions state. dont worry about the end liknk being up against the spring for once both sides are on the endlinks and you tighten it up and lower the car down off the jack they will both move inward on both ends
but make sure you remove the end links and reverse them
hope this helps for i did my install in about 45 mins front and rear
but make sure you remove the end links and reverse them
hope this helps for i did my install in about 45 mins front and rear
#3
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Yah....as lexforlife said....you gotta reverse the end link. Remove the bolt that holds the end link.....then loosen the huge bolt that secures the rear spring to the chassis (you may need an impact wrench bcuz this sucker is impossible to loosen by hand ratchet set) ....that will allow you to slide the end link up and out....just reverse it, re-install the bolt to hold the end link in place (do NOT tighten yet)....then re-tighten the huge bolt for the spring....finally, tighten the bolt that holds the end link in place.
Done!
Done!
Last edited by PHML; 08-06-03 at 10:57 AM.
#4
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Thank you guys. I did not know about reversing the end link (what I have called earlier a "ball joint"). I will try it this weekend.
PHML, why do I have to loosen the huge bolt that holds the rear spring to the chassis? I can not quite understand for what reason.
To make sure I understand what need to be done properly, below are the steps I am going to do in order to replace the rear sway bar:
1. Remove the left and right brackets.
2. Remove the left and right nuts that connecting the sway bar to the end link.
3. Remove the sway bar.
4. Loosen the end link bolts at both end.
5. Loosen, BUT NOT remove, the huge bolts that hold the rear springs to the chassis.
6. Remove the end link bolts from the end links and reverse the end link. Reconnect the end link bolt to hold the end links in place.
7. Reattach the new rear Daizen sway bar onto the end links with nuts.
8. Reattach the left and right brackets that hold the sway bar with bolts.
9. Tighten every thing. The end link bolts should be tighten last.
Please response if the steps above need to be corrected.
Hung
PHML, why do I have to loosen the huge bolt that holds the rear spring to the chassis? I can not quite understand for what reason.
To make sure I understand what need to be done properly, below are the steps I am going to do in order to replace the rear sway bar:
1. Remove the left and right brackets.
2. Remove the left and right nuts that connecting the sway bar to the end link.
3. Remove the sway bar.
4. Loosen the end link bolts at both end.
5. Loosen, BUT NOT remove, the huge bolts that hold the rear springs to the chassis.
6. Remove the end link bolts from the end links and reverse the end link. Reconnect the end link bolt to hold the end links in place.
7. Reattach the new rear Daizen sway bar onto the end links with nuts.
8. Reattach the left and right brackets that hold the sway bar with bolts.
9. Tighten every thing. The end link bolts should be tighten last.
Please response if the steps above need to be corrected.
Hung
#5
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Originally posted by sung35
PHML, why do I have to loosen the huge bolt that holds the rear spring to the chassis? I can not quite understand for what reason.
PHML, why do I have to loosen the huge bolt that holds the rear spring to the chassis? I can not quite understand for what reason.
That huge bolt is squeezing the chassis to the point where the end-link did NOT want to come out. Todd at TM Eng. told me that by loosening it....the end-link should reverse effortlessly.
Btw....my previous instructions was only for reversing the end-link after removing the OEM sway bar. I installed the Daizen rear sways after that....just follow the installation order that came with the Daizen Sway kit.
Pete
Here's a pic of my rear passenger side -
#7
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Thank you
It is done. Thank you everyone. Now the car needs a new set of 18" wheels to make it complete. Or is it... I will post pictures when I have the new wheels install. But I don't think it is going to happen soon. May be next year or so. For now, the car still has the 16" stock wheels.
P.S.: Has anyone have new wheels 18" or larger install and the "wife" does not notice at all afterward? I am looking for a way to have a new set of 18" wheels on my car without any nagging from my wife. I have the 7-spokes Platnum wheels. Here is the pic of the new wheels.
P.S.: Has anyone have new wheels 18" or larger install and the "wife" does not notice at all afterward? I am looking for a way to have a new set of 18" wheels on my car without any nagging from my wife. I have the 7-spokes Platnum wheels. Here is the pic of the new wheels.
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#8
Re: Thank you
Originally posted by sung35
... anyone have new wheels ... and the "wife" does not notice at all afterward?...
... anyone have new wheels ... and the "wife" does not notice at all afterward?...
#10
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Re: Thank you
Originally posted by sung35
...the "wife" does not notice at all afterward? I am looking for a way to have a new set of 18" wheels on my car without any nagging from my wife....
...the "wife" does not notice at all afterward? I am looking for a way to have a new set of 18" wheels on my car without any nagging from my wife....
Eventually, the wife will notice these spare 16s in the garage.
Here's a tip: Time to buy her that LV bag she's been longing for....maybe then your 18s won't be so bad.
Goodluck.
Pete
Last edited by PHML; 08-11-03 at 11:45 AM.
#11
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Installed the Daizens on my car today. The work was done on a lift.
Interestingly enough, we didn't need to loosen any shock bolts to get the end links fastened in the rear. However, we did have to pry "down" one round of the passenger's spring to access the upper link with a wrench.
Very easy installation...30 minutes with two sets of hands.
Interestingly enough, we didn't need to loosen any shock bolts to get the end links fastened in the rear. However, we did have to pry "down" one round of the passenger's spring to access the upper link with a wrench.
Very easy installation...30 minutes with two sets of hands.
#12
Hi,
I was looking at the pictures attached on this post. What is the small hole 1/4" in size just below the end link bolts meant for?
What will happen on a stock sway bar if you moved the bolts out 1" to 1.5" out on each side? Would it improve handling?
I was looking at the pictures attached on this post. What is the small hole 1/4" in size just below the end link bolts meant for?
What will happen on a stock sway bar if you moved the bolts out 1" to 1.5" out on each side? Would it improve handling?
#13
Lexus Test Driver
The small hole is actually for the HID sensor, as the lower arms are the same piece on the left and right side...only the left arm actually has the sensor on it.
If you moved the lower bolt holes out it would increase effectiveness of the bar slightly, but not enough at all to warrant doing it.
Todd Matsubara
TM Engineering LLC
www.tmengineering.net
If you moved the lower bolt holes out it would increase effectiveness of the bar slightly, but not enough at all to warrant doing it.
Todd Matsubara
TM Engineering LLC
www.tmengineering.net
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