Pittsy

Sasnuke

Sounds like something in not sitting straight or flush. Did you try and uninstall and reinstall? Just to see if something was not sitting correctly.

Pittsy

truu

Are they 60.1 mm hub centers? Any contaminants between the wheel hub and the spacer itself causing it not to sit flat? Same with spacer and rims?

Pittsy

I jacked the car up and spun the wheels, left wheel seems just a hair off, right wheel was off by like an inch. I took everything off and reseated it and now the right wheel is dead on. While messing with the left wheel my security lug shattered... So im going to pick a new one up before i take the wheel off and reseat it. The lug is still on and tight, just cracked in like 4 places... Rear spacers got here today as well, going to install those, fix the front, and my new DRL's came today!! Lots of parts to put on tonight

E46CT

how is your wheel off an inch. even a hair would be extremely excessive at speed. yes a literal hair. But an inch?

And no you can't notice a hair off with your eyes. something is seriously wrong with the way you installed it.

post pics of what you're working with. spacer, rotor surface, and wheel hub surface (actual wheel mounting surface)

everything must be medical grade clean. sanded down. wire brushed. prior to install. then torqued properly in sequence.

Pittsy

Take "just a hair" with a grain of salt. please.

Yes, Ive cleaned spacer and wheel hub. Everything is perfect now besides that broken security lug. Picking one up from the dealer later today and reinstalling that wheel. While spinning the right wheel, you could literally see the wheel jump in inch when spinning. Yes, I torqued in sequence using a torque wrench down to 88 lb ft. However I did notice an ever so slight pull to the right while driving, My guess is the broken lug not being torqued all the way down(its broken) but Im fixing that in a few hours.

E46CT

Maybe your tire or wheel is messed up. One lug not tightened would not cause the wheel to jump around. if you still have trouble, post a video of that

TOPENDMS

I still don't understand the wheel "jumping an inch"
What does that mean?

How do you crack a lug nut?

Also my manual says to torque lugs to 76lbs/ft.

Make sure your torquing both the spacer and lug nuts. In regaurds to your 15mm spacers, you MUST replace the wheel studs with longer hardened bolts too. If you dont want to you can go 10 or 20mm.

Pittsy

TOPENDMS

Factory wheel studs with 15mm spacers will protrude and hit the back of the wheel. 15mm spacers typically do not have bolts attached because they require larger studs. The ones you have might be expecting you to cut the OEM studs? You can go ahead and test fit, but according to the official Eibach and H&R products, that is going to be the case.

The Lug Nut torque is typically 76 lbs/ft

Pittsy

I have them on the car right now, didnt have any issues! just bolted them on. I did have to get a deepwell 3/4 socket to attach the tapered lugs so the stock studs. I torqued the wheels (to 76 this time) onto the studs built into the spacer and no problems. You saying that the wheels will hit the stock studs does worry me a bit, I am 90% sure that they aren't but you can never be to careful. I have the stock wheels (the ones that have the cutouts in between the stud holes). The desc. on the amazon page says that as long as those are there I should be fine. Ill keep you updated and thanks for the advice.

TOPENDMS

Just to be clear, my recommendations are based on the fact that Eibach/H&R do not make their 15mm spacer with the lug bolts pressed into the unit and instead include longer lug bolts. The assumption here is that the oem lug bolts are too long for a spacer with pressed bolts (will hit wheel), and the oem lug bolts are too short to give the lug nuts enough bite (or they would use a plate style with oem bolts like their 10mm).

I'm not an engineer, but these are clear examples why I personally stay away from replica/no name products. Theres also the issue of weak lug bolts that can snap and spacers that chemically weld the wheel to the hub. My recommendation is to always use name brand or a product that makes it very clear they did all the research and have the right product for the right application, and use the right materials for the job.

For spacers I would mostly be concerned with the lug bolt quality. They probably need to be hardened so they do not break and have a special type of threading manufacturing so they so not strip. The spacer itself may also need to be of a particular material so it does not weld itself to the hub/wheel. Look on youtube, youll find a handfull of spacers seized to the hub. Theres even one shown in a Fitment Industries video of a guy taking a sledge hammer to his wheel to remove it.. and its not budging.

Pittsy

I watched out for this while installing, but the stock wheels actually have pockets for the oem lug studs and tapered bolts to fit into without touching the wheel. I appreciate the help.

cdc2787

Based on what I read on here I was prepared to cut my OEM studs while installing 15MM ICHIBA Version 2 Hubcentric Wheel Spacers on my rear wheels, but to my surprise they fit without any cutting...should I be worried? hahaha. I haven't noticed a wobble or anything like that so I'm pretty sure I installed them correctly.