cupofjoe

Hello All,

I just brought my car in for a 40k mile service, and the dealership recommended replacing the front pads and resurfacing the front rotors. After doing some research, it appears pretty easy to change the pads yourself, so I will go that route. After more research, it appears that I might be better not getting the OEM brakes, and looking elsewhere for alternative pads.

I was wondering if anyone had experience with the Stoptech Sport Performance Brake Pads, and if they would recommend them. Does anyone have other recommendations for a pad to replace OEM.

Second question is regarding the pad performance. I have read that different pads won't affect stopping distance, but it will affect brake fade on repeated use (not a huge concern since my vehicle is a daily and not a track car). The Stoptechs claim better initial bite (which I like). Is this true? Would I get a better initial bite from the brakes with different pads?

Third, the dealership wanted to resurface my rotors. Is this necessary, or should I be replacing the rotors as well? If I should be replacing, what would you recommend?

Thanks and sorry for all the questions!

Fsportme

I use EBC reds on on the fronts on the is350 calipers. Once they're broken in brake dust is a lot less than stock. The stock pads have a great initial bite but the EBC reds stops very well with less dust.

Sasnuke

Whenever you're changing brake material you should resurface the rotor, unless it would be too thin afterwards, then replace them.
If you don't resurface the rotor (or replace), then the new pads won't last as long and you increase the chance of brake noise occurring.

jkonquer

Personally, I would just stick with the oem pads. They perform very good on street and semi track use. They are only about 50 bucks for the fronts from online parts dealer and very easy to install. The ones with less brake dusts tend to have less initial bite.

waleedj3is

Agreed! Tried EBC's on my car, pads didn't even last 10k Kms (Including one track day). Been using F-sport pads ever since and they do the job pretty well.

berniebenz

Never resurface rotors, unless they have warped to an extreme runout, >0.004". Spec is 0.002" TIR max.
All rotors tend to wear true, 0.000 runout. The best possible condition.
IMO, there is no such thing as a too thin rotor.
The factory spec is hype to sell rotors.
The unworn annular rings serve as a worn pad warning when the pad's backing plate touches the rings.
No electrical sensor needed.

Sasnuke

Dude...pretty much everything you said is wrong...scratch that...definitely everything you said is wrong!
Resurfacing rotors is not to correct a warp or runout, it's to remove the embedded brake material from your old pads.
The embedded old pad material will cause the new pads to wear out faster...and yes, it would also remove any warp or runout, it there is any.
Rotors that are worn or machined too thin, will crack from heat...if you want to drive on cracked rotors, be my guest, but don't mislead other members. It you have never held a cracked rotor in your hands, then don't comment.
I don't even know what this means, as it doesn't make any sense "The unworn annular rings serve as a worn pad warning when the pad's backing plate touches the rings."
I make it a point to never post a negative comment to other people's post, as I believe everyone is entitled to their own opinion...but I'm making an exception here because someone could actually believe you and find themselves in a bad situation.
Feel free to verify my comments with a licensed mechanic.

To the original poster, if you're reading this and can't decide who to believe, then I'd rather you don't believe either of us.
I recommend you speak to a licensed mechanic and hear it for yourself. A good mechanic will be more than happy to educate an inquiring customer.

3actual

The only reason I would have the rotors turned is if you ran the pads super low and had the metal part of the break pads scratching the rotors. As long as the rotors are not too bad. If the rotors are warped replace them.

Replacing break pads is pretty easy, and you can save yourself $100 or more.

berniebenz

Never turn rotors! Worn rotors wear true, zero runout, the optimum condition. Superior to new.
The new rotor runout spec is 0.002" TIR max, never measured and seldom achieved.
Dismiss any minimum rotor thickness spec BS, the purpose being only to sell replacement rotors.
The friction material on brake pads is slightly narrower than is its steel backing plate and narrower than the rotor's machined breaking surface.
Thus, as the rotor wears it leaves unworn, thus raised annular rings inside and outside the active rotor surface.
As a pad wears, the first metal to metal contact will be the backing plate to these raised annular rings on the rotor surface.
The resultant very audible screeching will be ample warning before any rotor damage occurs.
This is a for free pad replacement warning more reliable than any high tech electrical system.
I have always shorted out the electric pad warning system at the caliper connector on disk brake systems.

Sasnuke

You should really stop posting misleading information...someone is going to listen to you and get themselves hurt...and you're going to be responsible.
Telling people to disable the vehicles brake warning system and ignore the rotors minimum thickness is irresponsible at the very least.
Instead of just spewing a load of nonsense, why don't you actually post some evidence to back your ridiculous claims.
Just because you post the same thing over and over doesn't mean it's right or true.

berniebenz

I understand that this is an opinion, not a consensus forum. If not, I can be so corrected by a forum moderator. That you?
My "misleading information" is your opinion, not a gospel consensus.
DIY opinions may, often do differ from the party line, be it factory, independent shop, or other blind status quo followers.
Most everyone on this forum, being old enough to drive, is capable of accepting or rejecting posted opinions.

Sasnuke

I would hope a moderator finds this thread and takes the appropriate action against you.
What you're posting is not "opinion", you're telling people to disable the vehicle brake warning system and to never turn rotors. That is not an "opinion", maybe you should look the word up in the dictionary so you actually know what it means.
If wanting people to be safe and not messing around with their brakes like you suggested makes me a blind status quo follower, then I will happily accept that label.
I'd rather be that than someone of utter ignorance like yourself.
And yet still no proof to back any of your ridiculous claims...but then again it appears you were a Benz driver, so that doesn't say much about your "opinion" to begin with.

3actual

You obviously didn't read my post. I said if you allow metal to metal contact due to worn pads beyond the limit (aka you wait too long to change the pads). I've personally seen rotors with an uneven surface due to a driver not changing his/her pads in a timely manner.

I'm not some noob that listens to people that don't pay attention and then spew some Jerry rigging advice. I've been turning wrenches for over 20 years. Everything from a simple oil change to a pulling a car off of a frame.


OP- unless you have a pulsating brake pedal/steering wheel when you brake, or you waited too long to change your pads then you don't need your rotors turned.

Just remember service departments/mechanic shop are businesses and their first priority is to generate as much profits as possible. That's why some dealerships/mechanics try to get people to service vehicles soon than recommended by the manufacturer. They also recommend services you most likely do not need such as turning rotors with a standard brake job, or an alignment when you purchase tires.

Sasnuke

I would agree with you to a certain extent...however I think geography also factors into the equation.
Up here in the great white north winter sees the roads covered in salt and brine in attempts to melt the ice/snow.
The salt or brine does a number on the rotors/brakes, not to mention the underbody of the vehicles.
It is not uncommon to machine the rotors once during the life of pads due to the noise that occurs from corrosion building up on the very edge of the rotor. That very tiny gap between where the pad ends and rotor ends.
This is usually the cause of many (not all) brake noises we experience. A simple machining eliminates the rust, thus eliminating the noise. And likely the pads have corroded on the ends and seized in the caliper brackets, so a service at the same time is usually done.
I'm sure in Cali and Florida this isn't really a problem...then again snow isn't a problem either...lol!
For what it cost to do an alignment, for peace of mind I like to do it when new tires are installed. As I rotate between summer and winter tires, I'm buying a set of 8 tires roughly every 5 years (give or take).
Considering I'll be spending $1600+ every 5 years for tires, for an $80-100 alignment, its totally worth it in my opinion. I need to get my money's worth out of both sets of tires.
Where I drive the roads are actually pretty good, but to the south of me in downtown Toronto, the roads are horrendous...and the traffic is worse!! An alignment every couple years there wouldn't be a bad idea.