Steering rack bushings?
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Steering rack bushings?
Replacing the rack in my 92 SC400. Pulled the rack from my 93 parts car today, what a ***** that was, had to cut the steering shaft.
Anyway I don't think I need bushings but while it's apart maybe I should attend to it.
it's a slightly lowered daily driver calmly driven. If I replace I don't think I need urethane but am open to suggestions
Anyway I don't think I need bushings but while it's apart maybe I should attend to it.
it's a slightly lowered daily driver calmly driven. If I replace I don't think I need urethane but am open to suggestions
Last edited by Returd; 05-21-17 at 06:08 AM.
#3
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I'm not going to go with solid bushings. I did a little googling and see Daizen come up. I'm thinking poly rack bushings. I also stumbled on to discussion of control arm bushing failures. I may as well do those at the same time. I'm not keen on poly due to squeaks but could add grease fittings.
So where's the best place to buy poly bushings, Daizen or some other reputable brand?
So where's the best place to buy poly bushings, Daizen or some other reputable brand?
#5
Instructor
iTrader: (2)
I'm not sure where the notion of poly bushings resulting in squeaks comes from, but I have not had any issue with squeaking bushings in either car I have put them in. You have to properly grease the bushings and sleeves, if you do that the correct way they don't squeak. Now ride harshness, that's a legitimate question or concern. They are not going to be as soft as a stock rubber bushing, so depending on how much that bothers you it can be a factor swaying either way. I personally can't tell much difference, but maybe some can.
#6
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I have a Fox Mustang. The stock front suspension is a modified Mcpherson strut. I converted it to a coil over SLA (short/long arm or double wishbone, similar to SC front suspension).
I used poly bushings up front and hand greased them when assembling. Within 1500 miles the front end squeaks, it's a known thing (that I discovered after the fact) , especially in the Mustang crowd. Manually greasing the fittings requires taking the bushings apart, doing that every 1500 miles isn't really practical. Adding grease fittings and lubing them every oil change pretty much alleviates the problem, but adding fittings after assembly isn't fun or easy either.
I learned my lesson with the front end and will be addressing it soon.
I took the solid rear axle out and converted it to a coil over double wishbone independent rear suspension (IRS) from a 2003 Mustang Cobra. In the back I used Delrin bushings which are very hard but a high lubricity material. I also added grease fittings and use a Mobil 1 synthetic grease.
You would think such a hard bushing would make for a harsher ride with higher NVH (noise vibration harshness) but the opposite is the case. The arms rotate very freely and the ride quality is actually better than a stock IRS Cobra. Quieter, smoother etc.
the major different when going from stock rubber to poly or other control arm bushings is this:
stock bushings: the rubber is bonded to the inner and outer sleeve and the rubber twists as the arm rotates.
Poly or other bushings: the inner sleeve rotates on the surrounding bushing material. If not lubed or a high lubricity material this will squeak.
An often overlooked upside of aftermarket bushings is the arms rotate more freely as the arms don't need to use energy to twist the rubber. This is an additional benefit to having a bushing that doesn't compress as much and change suspension geometry through it's range of motion. Another thing to keep in mind when lubing poly or other fittings is the grease must be compatible with the bushings. There have been cases of the grease attacking the bushing resulting in very premature bushing failure.
Squeaking poly won't be an issue for a static bushing like a steering rack but it will happen eventually with a rotating bushing. If it hasn't then you're lucky and the assembly lube must still be in place.
I used poly bushings up front and hand greased them when assembling. Within 1500 miles the front end squeaks, it's a known thing (that I discovered after the fact) , especially in the Mustang crowd. Manually greasing the fittings requires taking the bushings apart, doing that every 1500 miles isn't really practical. Adding grease fittings and lubing them every oil change pretty much alleviates the problem, but adding fittings after assembly isn't fun or easy either.
I learned my lesson with the front end and will be addressing it soon.
I took the solid rear axle out and converted it to a coil over double wishbone independent rear suspension (IRS) from a 2003 Mustang Cobra. In the back I used Delrin bushings which are very hard but a high lubricity material. I also added grease fittings and use a Mobil 1 synthetic grease.
You would think such a hard bushing would make for a harsher ride with higher NVH (noise vibration harshness) but the opposite is the case. The arms rotate very freely and the ride quality is actually better than a stock IRS Cobra. Quieter, smoother etc.
the major different when going from stock rubber to poly or other control arm bushings is this:
stock bushings: the rubber is bonded to the inner and outer sleeve and the rubber twists as the arm rotates.
Poly or other bushings: the inner sleeve rotates on the surrounding bushing material. If not lubed or a high lubricity material this will squeak.
An often overlooked upside of aftermarket bushings is the arms rotate more freely as the arms don't need to use energy to twist the rubber. This is an additional benefit to having a bushing that doesn't compress as much and change suspension geometry through it's range of motion. Another thing to keep in mind when lubing poly or other fittings is the grease must be compatible with the bushings. There have been cases of the grease attacking the bushing resulting in very premature bushing failure.
Squeaking poly won't be an issue for a static bushing like a steering rack but it will happen eventually with a rotating bushing. If it hasn't then you're lucky and the assembly lube must still be in place.
#7
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
I'm not sure where the notion of poly bushings resulting in squeaks comes from, but I have not had any issue with squeaking bushings in either car I have put them in. You have to properly grease the bushings and sleeves, if you do that the correct way they don't squeak. Now ride harshness, that's a legitimate question or concern. They are not going to be as soft as a stock rubber bushing, so depending on how much that bothers you it can be a factor swaying either way. I personally can't tell much difference, but maybe some can.
Most of the cars these days have shot bushings and blown shocks that the upgrade to poly won't even be noticeable. It'll improve the way the car drives and probably feel the same.
*edit* to answer the OP question: I would go with super pro or whiteline steering rack bushings. The only remaining daizen vendor hasn't had a great track record for sending people their stuff. I've heard they've gotten better, but I still wouldn't risk it.
For the Control arms, Prothane is the cheapest option. Daizen is a rebranded prothane product. Super pro and whiteline are also great options, but they come at a much higher price.
Last edited by Blkexcoupe; 05-21-17 at 10:40 AM.
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Returd (05-21-17)
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#8
美少女戦士セーラームーン
iTrader: (24)
On my SC I haven't heard it at all. I've been on daizen poly bushings for 60k miles since 2008.
Most of the cars these days have shot bushings and blown shocks that the upgrade to poly won't even be noticeable. It'll improve the way the car drives and probably feel the same.
*edit* to answer the OP question: I would go with super pro or whiteline steering rack bushings. The only remaining daizen vendor hasn't had a great track record for sending people their stuff. I've heard they've gotten better, but I still wouldn't risk it.
For the Control arms, Prothane is the cheapest option. Daizen is a rebranded prothane product. Super pro and whiteline are also great options, but they come at a much higher price.
Most of the cars these days have shot bushings and blown shocks that the upgrade to poly won't even be noticeable. It'll improve the way the car drives and probably feel the same.
*edit* to answer the OP question: I would go with super pro or whiteline steering rack bushings. The only remaining daizen vendor hasn't had a great track record for sending people their stuff. I've heard they've gotten better, but I still wouldn't risk it.
For the Control arms, Prothane is the cheapest option. Daizen is a rebranded prothane product. Super pro and whiteline are also great options, but they come at a much higher price.
I'm going to check out these Super Pro bushings. My SC could use new bushings everywhere.
#9
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
I never knew that about the Daizen bushings. For years I've seen people go through all sorts of nonsense to get the Daizen bushings. I had no idea they were rebranded Prothane bushings.
I'm going to check out these Super Pro bushings. My SC could use new bushings everywhere.
I'm going to check out these Super Pro bushings. My SC could use new bushings everywhere.
The only thing unique to the Daizen products was the front LCA bushing for 92-00 models. They offered a replacement bushing cup that allowed you to press out the entire bushing instead of burning them out.
The rear daizen kit they sold doesn't include the shock mount bushing. The prothane kit does include it.
#10
Prothane shows two part numbers for the SC300/400 rack bushings. One for 47mm and one for 50mm diameter racks. Anyone know which one would be on a 93 SC400? Im guessing the smaller one.
47mm
http://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/spf1193-47k
50mm
http://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/spf1193-50k
47mm
http://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/spf1193-47k
50mm
http://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/spf1193-50k
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