Lowered suspension - can't align
Last edited by cfilling; Mar 30, 2017 at 10:56 AM. Reason: typo
questions I would have never known that the solution was to replace the faulty camber and caster bolts up front, but me being me I did the front and the back, since my guess was that they went on at the same point and time so why not do them both, also it was relatively inexpensive. Hope that helps, Dee
The wheels have a one finger gap to the fender (lowered about 2”).
I needed adjustable upper control arms and a rear camber kit to align within spec. Tires have worn perfectly even over the last 6yrs.
Before that, I would chew up 25,000 mile tires within 5,000 miles
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What type of camber kit do I need to get to remedy this? Does it need to be just one component, like this FIGS Offset Rear LCA Inner Bushing, just adjustable upper control arms, or a combination of components?
I'm aiming for close to stock ride height.
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He said it just needed upper control arms (“A-arm”?), but looking at the various components for sale that adjust camber, I’m not 100% sure what to look for. There are camber-adjusting suspension parts galore that seem to go under a variety of names: bolts, bolt kits, A-arms, upper control arms, camber arms, toe arms, lower control arms, front arms, trailing arms, and lateral arms. The part names listed in the Lexus schematics are even more generic.
I’m no mechanic, but I want to learn what needs to be learned to make the best decision here - any help is appreciated.
The FIGS bushing adds adjustability to the inboard side of the lower control arm. Adjustable upper control arms are... adjustable. Adjustable lower control arms also exist. The actual part names are generally descriptive of what part they replace and what they do, unlike "camber kit" which is a catch-all for any combination of parts used to adjust camber beyond factory limits.
You shouldn't need a camber kit if you are at stock height. If an alignment to factory specifications is impossible at stock height, something else is wrong. Even at a low ride height with excessive camber, it is still possible to have correct toe with the stock arms. It would be helpful if your mechanic gave you the print-out from the failed alignment so we can see what they were able to get.
I also don't think your performance mechanic is very familiar with the 2GS because adjustable rear upper control arms are kind of overkill. If anything, when people replace (2GS) rear control arms for extra adjustability, they replace the lowers, which is why there are so many more options for this, ranging from ultra-affordable Megan Racing, to ultra-expensive Ikeya Formula, or billet SerialNine.
Still, none of these should be necessary for a mild drop.
Last edited by firelizard; Jun 9, 2022 at 05:15 PM.
The FIGS bushing adds adjustability to the inboard side of the lower control arm. Adjustable upper control arms are... adjustable. Adjustable lower control arms also exist. The actual part names are generally descriptive of what part they replace and what they do, unlike "camber kit" which is a catch-all for any combination of parts used to adjust camber beyond factory limits.
You shouldn't need a camber kit if you are at stock height. If an alignment to factory specifications is impossible at stock height, something else is wrong. Even at a low ride height with excessive camber, it is still possible to have correct toe with the stock arms. It would be helpful if your mechanic gave you the print-out from the failed alignment so we can see what they were able to get.
I also don't think your performance mechanic is very familiar with the 2GS because adjustable rear upper control arms are kind of overkill. If anything, when people replace (2GS) rear control arms for extra adjustability, they replace the lowers, which is why there are so many more options for this, ranging from ultra-affordable Megan Racing, to ultra-expensive Ikeya Formula, or billet SerialNine.
Still, none of these should be necessary for a mild drop.










