I just wanted to ask a few more questions, and extract any other possible info if possible from anyone! I have read every thread I could find, some dealing with the SC400/430 but most threads are on the GS400/430. I'm just wondering if any new info has arrived from those who have done this, and more helpful tips. Please don't tell me to search or post thread links.

This is a ceramic coated batch made around July last year in 2015, the previous owner only had them on for not even a year before he took them off. I'm really glad I got to get this set in particular. A huge thanks Daniel! Also grabbed an Apexi Neo and Boomslang harness from him, and plan on getting it tuned once installed. Goal is the averaged 365HP and 380TQ at the crank. I know the stock ISF has more horsepower, but the stock ISF has 370TQ crank and weighs a little more. It probably has less driveline loss though, so it probably even outs pretty well.

Concerns to me:

1. Breaking bolts. Not talking about brace bolts, catalytic bolts, but rather the header stud nuts being so frozen on the studs, that it breaks the stud off when applying torque. - I have never heard of this happening to anyone, and I've done my research. I still worry though, that if I snap the studs off, I will wish I went to a shop, which I'm only considering for this and reason no. 2 below.

2. Stripping the header nuts. Not too much concern to me in this, but I'm going to use 6 point wrenches or sockets, and not 12 point. Does anyone have a good source for box end wrenches that are 6 and not 12 point?


3. The top bolt on cylinder no. 3 - I heard this one is tricky. I might buy a 14mm distributor wrench or a pass through wrench.

Reliefs to me:

1. I will use liberal amount of PB blaster or Freeze off. Can some one suggest the best rust-penetrant?

2. I did the engine mount on the driver side before, so I am experienced with raising the engine for more clearance.

3. Buy a propane torch with MAP gas, to heat the bolts that I can get access to.

4. For leaks, bought new OEM gaskets for everything, two header gaskets, two upper cat gaskets, and two lower cat gaskets.

I heard universal joints are a must, swivel joints are very helpful, and stubby wrenches are invaluable. I've heard so many different experiences, some describing this job horrible, and others saying it wasn't too bad, you just need patience. Any other tips or hints?

Thank you in advanced, respectfully, Ya'acov

 

It's a PITA to get done. Everything you noted sounds good, it's tough either way. Go from underneath on a lift is my suggestion.

Well, my suggestion is pull the motor and do it, ha ha.

 

Haha I'm only looking foward to this after it's all over! I can rent a lift, but I don't know how long it will take me. I have read anywhere from maybe 6 to 10 hours roughly. I only read one or maybe two posts where people said this job wasn't too bad. Their bolts must have not been rusted much! The rest of everyone's posts have been pretty consistent. I appreciate the post though, and welcome any more tips from you or anyone else

 

I'd plan to make a day of it just because some of the bolts are really tough to get to. You may also think about doing motor mounts while you're at it if you haven't already.

 

Exactly my thoughts, I want at least three days off for this one, just in case. Two days for the job and one for driving it!

Yeah I really just hope I can get enough leverage, and not round any bolts and I'll be happy!

I did do the driver's side mount before. Hopefully it's not as bad as I think cause I've really been bracing myself.

 

Wrong forum section bud.

 

I didn't move it here, I put it in the main GS section but a mod moved it here.

 

thats cause it should have been made in the performance section as it is.....or maybe just post it IN one of the threads we already have about the PPE headers.

i did mine on a lift, it sucked, when i did mine i did new bolts (yes all of them), new gaskets, new O2 sensors, and new motor/tranny mounts just cause i was already in there

 

Job is not that bad with THE RIGHT TOOLS. You seem to be pretty well prepared to handle this monster job.
I got caught up on one of the studs I believe it was on the number three runner. I had to shave it to get a 6 point box end in there.
I had extra bolts and studs just in case. I didn't have access to a lift but I was able to do it with a shop crane.
Changed the mounts, shaved the steering column metal shield off, and used a very thin layer of high heat copper gasket maker along with the OEM gasket.
I also had issues with the oil dip stick tube bolt. I replaced it with an Allen head bolt for easy removal.
Since I used a shop crane it was easier for me to remove the engine support to help with the install. I was redoing the entire front suspension as well anyway.
A dremmel is a good tool to have too. Depending on where you live (North East) those TWC bolts will not come loose with out breaking no matter how much blaster you use..lol

Good luck. You might get frustrated at one point just Woosaah through it and you'll be good..lol

 

Thank you guys.

I rented a friend's lift at his shop for 12 hours. I had no issues. Probably couldnt have removed the upper cat to flange bolts with out air tools. For the upper bolt on cylinder no. 3, I used a pass through wrench. I read this was the best tool for that, and it worked.

I torched every header bolt, broke them loose and removed all 16 very easily.

Shortly after, I got it tuned, and now can't wait to put my Supra brakes on!

 

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