Yeah the lca #2 and caster arm are the same thing. Besides lbj's, caster arm bushings on our cars are the other real problem. If they've never been changed they're most likely toast. You can see if they're really bad pretty easy. Jack up the front "safely" and look at the bushing that's bolted to the body, near where your feet would be if you were sitting inside your car. Mine were noticeably torn and dry rotted.

 

Absolutely must change those lca #2 out.. they will deflect your alignment under load and cause your tires to cup/car will drive like ****.

 

Got it. So would you guys recommend upgrading the arm and the bushing, or just the bushing itself? OEM or Figs? The only turn off with the Figs bushing is the price. Even though I do plan on keeping this car for a very long time, I just don't know about spending $150.

I also see 3 different options from Figs which I assume would be for those of us who are super low? I am currently on KYB shocks and DF210 springs, but will most likely be going coils later on down the road, so what option should I go with IF I decide to go with Figs?

http://shopfigs.com/v3/G2GS300ADJCST2-40-SPF

http://shopfigs.com/v3/G2GS300CST2-40-SPF-N

http://shopfigs.com/v3/2GS_SC430LCA-CK40_41_86

 

I would go with the figs over the oem. I have the ones in the second link you posted, and I have zero complaints. With oem you have to buy the whole arm and iirc, they're $300 for the pair. The figs are a better design and have a lifetime warranty as well. You don't need new arms, unless yours are bent.

 

You should pick up some figs steering rack bushings while your at it. They're easy to install and make a huge difference.

 

$150 doesn't sound so bad now... lol. In regards to the steering rack bushings - I actually bought the Daizen ones from TM Engineering when I did all the other front suspension stuff. Doesn't look like they sell them anymore though.

 

Had a friend do some minor fender work for me this past weekend to fit some spacers. He also replaced my front OEM studs with extended ones and noticed that my wheel bearings were making some noise. I'll be replacing that as well. Go OEM or is there an aftermarket ones that's good?

He said that you can tell by spinning the wheel hub (?) and if you hear a whining noise, then it's about to go out. You can also tell if you smell burning grease, which I did smell for the past week after driving to work in the mornings.

 

These bushings are just as much as the arm and the stock bushings. Or am I missing something? Sorry I am a noob as well.

 

After researching about the LCA#2, I basically chose to go with the Figs bushings instead of purchasing new OEM arms/bushings because I plan on keeping this car til it dies. I figured it's a good investment and I wouldn't have to worry about it ever going out again. If it does, I can warranty it.

Btw if you are gonna go the OEM replacement route, upgrade to the beefier arms. They have the small little bump near the bushing end. If you are purchasing the Figs bushings, the older 98-00 arms (some 00 will have the beefier arms) have no bump at the end, but the 00+ will have the bump. The bushings will be a different size as well, so you will want to get down there to take a look before purchasing.

 

Well as much as Figgs is great there is also hardrace suspension products:

For example:
Front Tension Rod
http://www.hardrace.com/Product_detail.asp?id=3667

and well you can check out all there stuff they have at:

http://www.hardrace.com/

 

How did the install go?

 

Any idea how much? I don't want to have to put in my email to be able to go to the cart. Not trying to get spammed.

 

Stupid Noob questions..... Am I doubling up on things I dont need? Do I need the control arm and the lower control arm? Ball joint comes with control arm. Do i need the lower ball joint? PartPriceQuantityTotal 2003 LEXUS GS300 3.0L L6 Suspension : Ball JointRelated PartsBall Joint BootBall Joint PressJoint Separator / Pickle ForkSteering & Suspension Repair ManualSuspension KitTie Rod EndMOOG K500102 {#4334039415, 4334939415} Problem Solver Info
Front Left Lower; Design Allows Ease Of Installation$33.79$33.79MOOG K500101 {#4333039535} Problem Solver Info
Front Right Lower; Premium Sealed Boot Keeps Contaminants Out$33.79$33.79 Suspension : Control ArmRelated PartsSteering & Suspension Repair ManualSuspension KitMOOG RK640409 {#4806830300} R-Series Info
Front Right Lower; Arm Only$67.79$67.79MOOG RK640410 {#4806930300} R-Series Info
Front Left Lower; Arm Only$67.79$67.79 No Vehicle Specified Steering : Tie Rod EndRelated PartsBumperJoint Separator / Pickle ForkStabilizer Bar BushingSteering & Suspension Repair ManualTie Rod End BootMOOG ES80585 {#4547059015} Problem Solver Info$19.11$19.11MOOG ES80584 {#4546059015} Problem Solver Info$19.22$19.22MOOG EV80600 {#4550339155} Info$29.79$59.58 Suspension : Control ArmRelated PartsSteering & Suspension Repair ManualMOOG RK620335 {#4861039085} R-Series; Complete Arm w/ Ball Joint Info$111.79$111.79MOOG RK620336 {#4863039055} R-Series; Complete Arm w/ Ball Joint Info$111.79$111.79

 

I'm not going to attempt to decipher that garbled mess.

But in total you need (for the front), in total: left and right upper control arm with the ball joint pre-installed, left and right lower ball joint, left and right lower control arm #1, left and right lower control arm #2 aka caster arm, left and right outer tie rod end, left and right stabilizer bar end link, stabilizer bar bushings (2 per vehicle), and steering rack bushing (1 kit per vehicle).