'01 GS430 Wheel Hub and bearing replacement - Step by step with pics!
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
'01 GS430 Wheel Hub and bearing replacement - Step by step with pics!
*I will underline important information along the way, if you're going to skip all of my blabbering, at least read these bits of info to save yourself trouble.
Okay, this is my first post. I have a 2001 Gs430. When I bought the car in august of 2014 it had about 98k miles on it. From day one it made a "wop wop" sound that increased with speed but was never really noticeable. A few months ago i dropped the car 1" on Swift Springs and the sound became more prominent. I now have about 105k miles on it and the sound has slowly gotten worse to the point where it now drives me crazy.
To the point: This upcoming Friday I will be changing my Hub and Bearing on my drivers side.
Bearing and hub both purchased from my local Advanced Auto store.
note the diamond shapes next to parts on the diagram above. These are non-reusable parts. Continue reading for exceptions that are also underlined.
I got my hub for $102 and the bearing for $36. Im sure i could have found it cheaper but oh well.
Anyway, I'm planning on taking pictures and posting a step by step DIY for bearing and hub removal and replacement. Let me know if you guys are interested! Like I said I will be doing it this Friday. Feel free to ask me questions give me any comments on what you'd like to see/have explained. this will be my first thread so go easy, any tips for diys are welcomed. See you guys Friday
Wednesday update 1: Two days before project
I called my dealership today about the "non reusable parts" as listed by the exploded view of the steering assembly. Upon asking if they had the parts (oil seal, Grease cap -aka dust cap-, and the snap ring) he kind of chuckled and told me they only had the oil seal in stock - that they reuse the old grease cap and snap ring.
That being said, use caution when removing the grease cap and snap ring. As for the O-ring on the wheel speed sensor, it should be reusable as well. If not i got an O-ring kit from my auto store for $8. The new oil seal will run me about $10. Stay tuned for pics and updates. Two days util project.
Okay, this is my first post. I have a 2001 Gs430. When I bought the car in august of 2014 it had about 98k miles on it. From day one it made a "wop wop" sound that increased with speed but was never really noticeable. A few months ago i dropped the car 1" on Swift Springs and the sound became more prominent. I now have about 105k miles on it and the sound has slowly gotten worse to the point where it now drives me crazy.
To the point: This upcoming Friday I will be changing my Hub and Bearing on my drivers side.
Bearing and hub both purchased from my local Advanced Auto store.
note the diamond shapes next to parts on the diagram above. These are non-reusable parts. Continue reading for exceptions that are also underlined.
I got my hub for $102 and the bearing for $36. Im sure i could have found it cheaper but oh well.
Anyway, I'm planning on taking pictures and posting a step by step DIY for bearing and hub removal and replacement. Let me know if you guys are interested! Like I said I will be doing it this Friday. Feel free to ask me questions give me any comments on what you'd like to see/have explained. this will be my first thread so go easy, any tips for diys are welcomed. See you guys Friday
Wednesday update 1: Two days before project
I called my dealership today about the "non reusable parts" as listed by the exploded view of the steering assembly. Upon asking if they had the parts (oil seal, Grease cap -aka dust cap-, and the snap ring) he kind of chuckled and told me they only had the oil seal in stock - that they reuse the old grease cap and snap ring.
That being said, use caution when removing the grease cap and snap ring. As for the O-ring on the wheel speed sensor, it should be reusable as well. If not i got an O-ring kit from my auto store for $8. The new oil seal will run me about $10. Stay tuned for pics and updates. Two days util project.
Last edited by JbaxGS430; 04-15-15 at 07:13 PM. Reason: Update 1:
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
From my research I've found that the 2nd generation Lexus doesn't have the self contained hub bearing assembly, if you look at the third generation it comes all together, we're not so lucky it would seem.
#5
REGARDING THE VIDEO (Great video, but I see one thing to watch for during reassembly)
If that last race, the inner race (Just inside the nut), needs to be pressed on..... how are you supposed to torque it right?
My thought is that if you ran it down in there with the 12 ton press you really have no way to know how much load you applied to the bearings.....
Follow? So... torquing the nut to spec doesn't necessarily mean that there isn't MORE load than that against the bearings already from pressing on the race... thereby over loading the bearings....
Follow my thought about what the issue could be?
What amount of force does it take to press that last race in place? Perhaps less than the amount of torque spec'd for the nut? I would attempt to do that with a hammer and 'pipe'... and just get it 'snug' - as long as torquing the nut will move the race... I presume this to be the case
If so, no problem....
But something for people to watch when doing this... if you applied too much force pressing that in, you'd suffer premature bearing failure. Just a heads up.
I don't need to do mine, but I'm sure I will eventually, so this was nice to watch.... Great video.
If that last race, the inner race (Just inside the nut), needs to be pressed on..... how are you supposed to torque it right?
My thought is that if you ran it down in there with the 12 ton press you really have no way to know how much load you applied to the bearings.....
Follow? So... torquing the nut to spec doesn't necessarily mean that there isn't MORE load than that against the bearings already from pressing on the race... thereby over loading the bearings....
Follow my thought about what the issue could be?
What amount of force does it take to press that last race in place? Perhaps less than the amount of torque spec'd for the nut? I would attempt to do that with a hammer and 'pipe'... and just get it 'snug' - as long as torquing the nut will move the race... I presume this to be the case
If so, no problem....
But something for people to watch when doing this... if you applied too much force pressing that in, you'd suffer premature bearing failure. Just a heads up.
I don't need to do mine, but I'm sure I will eventually, so this was nice to watch.... Great video.
Last edited by TableSyrup; 04-17-15 at 09:32 PM.
#6
yeah i know exactly what youre talking about. that was my concern too. i did my front drivers side last year. pressing in the hub was really easy. didnt take as much force as i thought
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