another brake upgrade question! :-(
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another brake upgrade question! :-(
So... I've got all 4 wheel bearings on the way.... new bilsteins and managed to find a new in box set of eibach springs... new rotors all the way around... and new LS calipers up front....
What I can't seem to find is are the SC3/4 rear dust shields the same? going off toyo diy they look to have the same part numbers- I'm going to use the sc400 brakes on my 300
I just would like to know what expect as I want to keep the dust shields in place and complete... I'm making ones out of 10ga aluminum for up front with 2.5" flanges on them just in case I ever want to duct them- and would like to source sc400 ones if I need them.
Thanks in advance guys.
What I can't seem to find is are the SC3/4 rear dust shields the same? going off toyo diy they look to have the same part numbers- I'm going to use the sc400 brakes on my 300
I just would like to know what expect as I want to keep the dust shields in place and complete... I'm making ones out of 10ga aluminum for up front with 2.5" flanges on them just in case I ever want to duct them- and would like to source sc400 ones if I need them.
Thanks in advance guys.
#2
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No they don't have the same dust shields for the rear. When I replaced one of my rear wheel bearings, I was forced to use an entire hub from an SC300 in my old SC400, and the dust shield started rubbing immediately with the brake rotor. I had to push it backwards so it wouldn't rub, and it worked.
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I don't think it's that simple as its pretty thick stamped steel- isn't it also the mounting point for the the parking brake?
If I'm going through the effort of blasting and powder coating all of the suspension parts and replacing all of the bearings and such I don't want to cut a corner as simple as a dust shield.
If I'm going through the effort of blasting and powder coating all of the suspension parts and replacing all of the bearings and such I don't want to cut a corner as simple as a dust shield.
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Removing it isn't the issue. I Want it there. No snipping would be required since the hubs and bearings are being removed.
I'm investing a ton of time and energy in making the car look "stock" it's the little things imo.
I'm investing a ton of time and energy in making the car look "stock" it's the little things imo.
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#8
Really not trying to be a ****, to each their own. I know i know. Buuutttttt its an sc300 not a pre 60s or 70s muscle car that you're restoring and want everything perfect.
Imo rip the fcker off lol.
Imo rip the fcker off lol.
#10
You'd need new Supra TT rear dust shields for it to be perfect. They cost a hell of a lot compared to front TT dust shields (about 3x the cost).
I measured and Dremeled my rear SC dust shields to fit the TT rear calipers and rotors. I made sure to smooth the edges too. I'd have preferred to use the correct dust shields but I believe they were $160 per side at the time.
I don't agree with this at all. I've owned and modified a 60's muscle car and the SC isn't all that different when it comes down to how you choose to modify it and do things right. This attitude is what contributes to so many basket case SC's in the used market that could have benefitted from better attention to detail.
Exactly. This was even the case with some 60's and 70's classic cars when I got my first one in the middle 90's. If it wasn't a special edition or factory high performance model it wasn't valued nearly as much. That was the tail end of that era of thinking with such vintage classics because a few years later the body styles alone went up in value as the restomod market took off.
I measured and Dremeled my rear SC dust shields to fit the TT rear calipers and rotors. I made sure to smooth the edges too. I'd have preferred to use the correct dust shields but I believe they were $160 per side at the time.
Exactly. This was even the case with some 60's and 70's classic cars when I got my first one in the middle 90's. If it wasn't a special edition or factory high performance model it wasn't valued nearly as much. That was the tail end of that era of thinking with such vintage classics because a few years later the body styles alone went up in value as the restomod market took off.
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The point of this build is a sunny day only car... Not driving it to work- I'm building it for me. I drove the car 4-5 times last summer... Hope to drive it more this year but if I dont- no big deal.
I can hack or smash them out of the way- what's the point? I can pick them up used cheap...
The question wasn't can I make them work- it was are they the same... Didn't think they were but part numbers on fiche look like they are.
My goal is max hp out of the vvti turbos without having anything out of place under the hood (ic pipe excluded) The suspension will look stock other than the bilsteins- why cut that last corner?
It's about doing it right not right now.
I can hack or smash them out of the way- what's the point? I can pick them up used cheap...
The question wasn't can I make them work- it was are they the same... Didn't think they were but part numbers on fiche look like they are.
My goal is max hp out of the vvti turbos without having anything out of place under the hood (ic pipe excluded) The suspension will look stock other than the bilsteins- why cut that last corner?
It's about doing it right not right now.
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46504 PLATE SUB-ASSY, PARKING BRAKE, LH
46504-24020 (08/1991 - 07/1998) 1 $205.63
46504-24030 (08/1998 - ) 1 $215.24
Hope this helps someone in the future.... 07/98 was the change in the rear disks.
46504-24020 (08/1991 - 07/1998) 1 $205.63
46504-24030 (08/1998 - ) 1 $215.24
Hope this helps someone in the future.... 07/98 was the change in the rear disks.
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