How to remove RF axle on an AWD?
#17
those carrier bearing support brackets are notorious for being seized. (any make or model) if you are looking to replace the axle shaft, you'll need to buy a new bearing support bracket. if you are just removing the axle to do something else, you'll need to pull the bracket down with the axle
#18
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (2)
I know this is old,. but hopefully you can remember.... This brace came out when the passenger side front axle was removed... are you saying, this can not be used?? and that I need to purchase a new one? i have tried to get it back into differential, but without success... do I need a special tool.??.. this is the actual one that came out of the car and off the old axle.. it fits on the new axle with a couple hammer taps, but either ON or OFF the axle. I cannot get it back into the differential
Will the axle go in and seat to depth with that cup out?
See the whole in the middle of the cup, does a short bolt go into that to secure it? Has it been removed completely from the oil pan?
Last question; does the axle bearing slide into that cup (outside of the vehicle)? Looks like you said, yes....
It looks like the cup should have stayed w the vehicle. Is there any mix match of years where the cup went away and was replaced w a larger OD bearing? Id say no, as you loose the snap ring.... BUT, as long as the splined end of the axle has a snap ring to lock it inside the diff, the bearings OD does not really need a snap ring. It does however require one on the shaft to retain the bearing.
Answer the questions as best possible. We'll figure it out from there.
And you did try rotating the axle so as to engage the splines into the diff, yes!!?
#19
Lets recap:
Will the axle go in and seat to depth with that cup out? Yes it will. fits all the way in and clicks without an issue
See the whole in the middle of the cup, does a short bolt go into that to secure it? Yes it does. Has it been removed completely from the oil pan? yes it has
Last question; does the axle bearing slide into that cup (outside of the vehicle)? Looks like you said, yes....
yes, it fit on the new axle bearing with a few light taps
It looks like the cup should have stayed w the vehicle. Is there any mix match of years where the cup went away and was replaced w a larger OD bearing? no it hasnt. its all factory ... Id say no, as you loose the snap ring.... BUT, as long as the splined end of the axle has a snap ring to lock it inside the diff, the bearings OD does not really need a snap ring. It does however require one on the shaft to retain the bearing.
Answer the questions as best possible. We'll figure it out from there.
And you did try rotating the axle so as to engage the splines into the diff, yes!!? yes, the axle fit perfectly without the cup. but because the cup wasnt on it, i know its not safe
Will the axle go in and seat to depth with that cup out? Yes it will. fits all the way in and clicks without an issue
See the whole in the middle of the cup, does a short bolt go into that to secure it? Yes it does. Has it been removed completely from the oil pan? yes it has
Last question; does the axle bearing slide into that cup (outside of the vehicle)? Looks like you said, yes....
yes, it fit on the new axle bearing with a few light taps
It looks like the cup should have stayed w the vehicle. Is there any mix match of years where the cup went away and was replaced w a larger OD bearing? no it hasnt. its all factory ... Id say no, as you loose the snap ring.... BUT, as long as the splined end of the axle has a snap ring to lock it inside the diff, the bearings OD does not really need a snap ring. It does however require one on the shaft to retain the bearing.
Answer the questions as best possible. We'll figure it out from there.
And you did try rotating the axle so as to engage the splines into the diff, yes!!? yes, the axle fit perfectly without the cup. but because the cup wasnt on it, i know its not safe
#20
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (2)
It did come out of there, thus it may take a solid driver (like a bearing race driver set) to put it back.
Do you have any veneer calipers you can measure the two items with? I can't imagine it is an interference fit. You just don't do that to cast aluminum. Its too easy to crack it.
I would scrub both real well with an aggressive scotch brite pad, grease them and try to drive the cup in. Assuming both are free of burrs.
Do you have any veneer calipers you can measure the two items with? I can't imagine it is an interference fit. You just don't do that to cast aluminum. Its too easy to crack it.
I would scrub both real well with an aggressive scotch brite pad, grease them and try to drive the cup in. Assuming both are free of burrs.
#21
It did come out of there, thus it may take a solid driver (like a bearing race driver set) to put it back.
Do you have any veneer calipers you can measure the two items with? I can't imagine it is an interference fit. You just don't do that to cast aluminum. Its too easy to crack it.
I would scrub both real well with an aggressive scotch brite pad, grease them and try to drive the cup in. Assuming both are free of burrs.
Do you have any veneer calipers you can measure the two items with? I can't imagine it is an interference fit. You just don't do that to cast aluminum. Its too easy to crack it.
I would scrub both real well with an aggressive scotch brite pad, grease them and try to drive the cup in. Assuming both are free of burrs.
#22
Driver School Candidate
Hi Just4Me, this is an old thread and I believe my mechanic is having the same problem you did - he said he is having issues with installing the carrier bearing. How did you get the axle to fit into the differential?
#23
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (2)
Look at post #17. That cup (bearing retainer) was supposed to stay in the housing. You being in MA, likely have a huge rust/corrosion issue.
If that cup comes out, it and the housing need cleaned up so it goes back in. End game is the bearing should slide fairly painlessly into that cup.
Burr removal/corrosion removal is the key to fitting the axle. I wouldn't hesitate to take an abrassive flapper disc on a Pneumatic rotary tool to clean it. Apply high temperature water proof GREASE only when installing. NEVER SEIZE will bind in tight tolerances! Do not let mechanic use it or beat axle into place of the bearing and joints will fail prematurely.
The following users liked this post:
bpjadhav (01-21-20)
#26
I know that's not the correct way of doing it, but my axle would not come out of the car. It was completely rusted in I guess from years of driving it. My car was originally from New York and got moved down to Atlanta. So I guess the winter and salted roads didnt help...
when I was doing mine, I was in a apartment complex. And everything on the ground. So i could not get it on a tow truck to take it to a dealer.
I also put some anti seize on it. Hopefully it would help just in case there's another issue. Actually I re checked everything over this past weekend, and it all still looks pretty good and I'm not having any vibrations from the axles.
Last edited by Just4Me; 01-22-20 at 08:22 AM.
#27
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (2)
^^^^
From personal experience I can tell you that the WORST PRODUCT to use on interference or low interference fit components like BEARINGS ON AXLES, as it does not slide. It is a friction inhibitor.
My old Ford 9" housing had 31 spline axles with a bearing pressed on right up by the axle flange. This is a full interference PRESS fit bearing. Oil or Grease and a 10 ton press would easily seat the bearing.
The same setup with Antisieze on bearing and axle and 10 tons would not move it. It took just under 25 tons to get that same bearing on
DO NOT USE ANTISIEZE ON ANYTHING BUT A LOOSE FIT OR IT WILL BIND!!!
From personal experience I can tell you that the WORST PRODUCT to use on interference or low interference fit components like BEARINGS ON AXLES, as it does not slide. It is a friction inhibitor.
My old Ford 9" housing had 31 spline axles with a bearing pressed on right up by the axle flange. This is a full interference PRESS fit bearing. Oil or Grease and a 10 ton press would easily seat the bearing.
The same setup with Antisieze on bearing and axle and 10 tons would not move it. It took just under 25 tons to get that same bearing on
DO NOT USE ANTISIEZE ON ANYTHING BUT A LOOSE FIT OR IT WILL BIND!!!
#30
Driver School Candidate
I had to sit mine in dry ice for a little while in order to shrink it, at the same time. I had to heat up the axle housing to expand it. That was the only way I can get it to work.
I know that's not the correct way of doing it, but my axle would not come out of the car. It was completely rusted in I guess from years of driving it. My car was originally from New York and got moved down to Atlanta. So I guess the winter and salted roads didnt help...
when I was doing mine, I was in a apartment complex. And everything on the ground. So i could not get it on a tow truck to take it to a dealer.
I also put some anti seize on it. Hopefully it would help just in case there's another issue. Actually I re checked everything over this past weekend, and it all still looks pretty good and I'm not having any vibrations from the axles.
I know that's not the correct way of doing it, but my axle would not come out of the car. It was completely rusted in I guess from years of driving it. My car was originally from New York and got moved down to Atlanta. So I guess the winter and salted roads didnt help...
when I was doing mine, I was in a apartment complex. And everything on the ground. So i could not get it on a tow truck to take it to a dealer.
I also put some anti seize on it. Hopefully it would help just in case there's another issue. Actually I re checked everything over this past weekend, and it all still looks pretty good and I'm not having any vibrations from the axles.