I'm in the middle of doing a warranty exchange for my Beck Arnley Driver's Side Upper Control Arm. I installed it 2 years ago and put only 16,000 Miles on it. I've been having some looseness at highway speeds and when I kick the tire I hear metal hitting metal. This was the sound that led me to change it in the first place. I pulled it apart just to double check and the ball joint is very loose and has some vertical movement. I replaced the passenger side at the same time but I haven't had a chance to pull that one apart to check it. It isn't exhibiting the metal noise though.

Rock Auto is shipping me a new one and will refund the purchase price when I get the damaged one back to them. While I appreciate the warranty replacement, I'm not convinced that these are quality replacement parts. 16,000 miles is nothing! It looks as though the grease is gone and the joint has started to rust. There is no grease fitting on these so it doesn't seem to be a serviceable part. Also, the rubber does not seem to create a very tight seal around the pin.

This post is just a "head's up" to those of you looking for a UCA replacement. After this incident, Beck Arnley will not be my first choice in replacement parts. I'm gonna try out the warranty replacement but if that fails prematurely, I'm done with Beck Arnley. I've seen photos of the Moog UCA and it has a metal ring around the rubber at the upper AND lower portion of the ball joint, sealing in the grease and keeping the contaminants out.

I would suggest to anyone looking for a new UCA, go with the Moog part. If anyone has good experiences with other UCAs, please post. Also, if anyone knows of anything else that would cause an upper ball joint to go bad, please post.

 

I just bought both Uca's 10 minutes ago from Rock Auto, I went with Raybestos Professional Grade, $220 shipped, I WOULD NOT buy anything less than professional grade when it comes to aftermarket, Moog makes an r series which is a budget control arm, I would pass on them too, Raybestos is a quality company I'll let everyone know when I get em installed, I'm very excited, no more popping and looseness... Btw if your lowered it makes a huge difference on how long your suspension parts will last, I'm riding stock...

 

I thnk I'd have to agree with U guys. This'll be the third control arm I've bought. I forget which brand, but I bought some on ebay. Wifey was talking about trading the thing in until I compounded/restored the gold and slapped gs400 wheels on there. She loved it, but I had already installed the cheapo control arms....not even a year later....I mean thing cheap things went through 1 winter... the bushing split in half and I started to get a clunk on bumps. I jacked up the car and I could jiggle the DS control arm. The one arm I bought at the foreign auto part store cost as much as the pair on ebay I bought. Just with the one control arm it drives waaay better too....so now I gotta go out and replace the other control arm lol

 

The stock UCA last around 200k miles before needing replacement, and some don't even really need it at that time. If the part only lasts 16k miles, I would not really trust it a second time around.

 

My stock UCAs were shot at 120,000 miles. Can another worn suspension component cause premature failure?

I agree that 16,000 miles is ridiculously low for the Beck Arnley's but it is my hope that I got a bad "one off." I will try the warranty replacement and if it degrades again, move on to another aftermarket part. Paying $720 for stock replacements UCAs on a $6000 car is absurd; so as much as I'd like stock parts, I don't feel the cost is justified.

 

I had Beck Arnley lower ball joints and they were worn out in 30,000KM
Have 60,000KM on Raybestos upper control arms. I asked the dealer to inspect all front suspension and no issue was reported.

 

Didn't know that stock uca's were that expensive

 

Replaced mine with a dorman part at 90k miles, it wasn't absolutely terrible but there was play and I wanted to replace it before I go to New Jersey for an internship. It was like $84 shipped and I believe it is from a 1st gen GS since it mine is a sport design (there's no real difference but there was a thread somewhere discussing the matter). I was leery using this part but the reviews of it seemed to be pretty good and it only took 45 minutes with jack stands and 14 & 17 mm wrenches. When I called the dealer they wanted $700 and when i first got the car I paid $500 for the other side so I am happy, well just see how the part holds up. That being said I don't even change my own oil and this was incredibly easy so if I have to replace it again in a few years I won't be to disappointed (rather not though).

 

Yes. $300 per arm. Ridiculous. But it seems that OEM is the only logical way to go. Unless folks don't mind replacing them every two years. There is something about that OEM arm that makes it last up to 100k and not just 15-20k with B&A's, Moogs or other aftermarket products.

 

I thought people said the moogs lasted a while?

 

I think that the Beck Arnley's are poorly sealed. When I get home, I'll be able to see if they've improved them since the parts I got two years ago. The Moog and some others have a metal ring that keeps a better seal on the ball joint, keeping water out and grease in. Maintaining grease is the key to longevity. But I still wonder if another weakened suspension component could put greater wear on the UCA.

 

Yeah, I'm about to start stocking all needed suspension parts piece by piece. I'm at 127k now and I plan on basically putting all new suspension parts on my front end by 150k. I'll go with OEM UCA's so it can last me another 150k.

 

Just got my Raybestos Professional grade Upper Control arms and ball joints in the mail yesterday, they look really good, I'm getting them put in this Tuesday with an alignment, can't wait, I'll let u know how it feels!!

 

Just purchased a set of OEM arms (I bit the bullet). $560 purchase. I better find gold in these damn things

 

Where did you purchase. That's a big difference from $720