http://www.aftermarketnews.com/Item/..._arm_line.aspx

 

Hey Flockov8dr and Repugnate, what would you suggest as an alternative? Ive really combed the internet trying to find anyone selling Moog uppers in a non RK version and came up with nothing. Like its never existed.

 

^ Honestly OEM is your best bet here. My true opinion. If the cost doesn't fit your budget, others have seem to have good experiences with Dorman, Beck & Arnely. But you just cannot go wrong with OEM. I know it's costly, but to me, piece of mind is priceless.

 

Ouch, putting Moog under Dorman. Dorman to me is sub OEM quality. And I keep hearing about OEM being not so good as in getting worn out in 50-100k. To the point in fact that when buying a GS400 I knew it would be one of my first repairs. Its odd though that they call the R-series an economy or budget minded friendly product line when its the second highest priced upper on Rock Auto. RAs prices are fairly low.
Ill need to do more research on R-series suffering from failures and premature wear. Even if the work has been outsourced that shouldnt guarantee that the product will suffer. Parts could be imported to the assembly location making the end product cheaper but not inferior. I wouldnt get scared so soon just because its not out of the same factory as before.

edit:
So out of curiosity I bought and installed RK versions of Moog uppers. They are very solid pieces. The only thing that I saw that was a bit different was that the uppers that came off my car had a slight lip at the fat end of the taper. The RKs dont have that lip. So when I tightened the ball joint nut it tightened past where the crown nut would catch the cotter pin. It seemed to need to be tighten all the way till I ran out of thread. And just for a matter of record I do know what im doing. When the upper ball joint was placed in the upper tapered hole of the spindle it went in further than it needed to just by being placed in. I worried hat this would cause problems so i gauged the small end and big end of the taper of the upper that came out of my car verses the RK part. The tapers were identical so I can only figure it had something to do with the small lip on the old part that the RK didnt have.
Thats my feedback on the install. It has cured the loose clacking shimmy from my front end, so im happy.

 

I just bought Raybestos Professional Grade today, they look to be the best for aftermarket, I would not get anything less than professional grade when going aftermarket,I only seen professional series in Raybestos, their a great company with good reviews so I trust them over the others,yea Moog does not make a non RK series uca for our car unfortunately, the Raybestos look great I can't wait to get them, I will let u know when I get them put on my experience and how they feel, I got them for $225 with a 5% discount code 3-7 days shipping or something...

Thanks for the sticky mods!!

 

Dam. I was gonna change out all suspension front components soon with all Moog. at 105K just to be on the safe side. I already have purchased the Moog lower ball joints, inner + outer tie rods, etc.. Now I was gonna get the upper control arms which has the ball joint attached to it and the lower control arms as well by Moog. Now I'm having second thoughts upon reading this thread. I just wanted to give the suspension a break and give it a fresh start. I just wanna assure I'm putting on quality worth parts.

 

I read allot on here. I don't necessarily think the RK upper control arms are worse quality because of economical changes. I still think Moog upholds they're quality. Despite whatever price changes. Maybe the RK series UCAs are not as long lasting as OEM or the Raybestos the gentleman mentioned above, but I do think they'll hold up anywhere between 50k-100k depending on driving. People are saving $100s off NOT buying OEM parts and complain about the performance of the part. When really the part is doing is job, maybe less miles, but it's for a FRACTION of the original OEM cost. I mean we really can't complain. Anybody having or have had any issues with the lower control arms Moog has made for the 2GS?? I wanna know. I plan on buying both UCA and LCA from Moog. Please anyone elaborate.

 

good to know!

 

I used moog ball joints (made in Japan) and upper control arms (made in Taiwan) already have almost 25k miles on right side and less than 1k miles on left
so far no problems

 

With the massive number of vehicle platforms out there, there's not really a way to make control arms for every car without devoting a massive amount of resources. I guess Moog didn't measure that as worth the investment when they could instead sell "Moog-Certified" parts such as the RK line.

These are mostly made in Asia, but you'd be surprised to learn that a lot of Moog parts are made in A LOT of different countries. Check out our blog post on "Where are Moog parts made" if you don't believe me:
http://www.aftermarketsuspensionpart...og-parts-made/

We found a double digit number of countries where Moog manufactures their parts.

When the RK series was first released by Moog we researched the differences and compiled them here:
http://www.aftermarketsuspensionpart...ms-ck-k-or-rk/

You can clearly see the difference in Moog's Premium line of CK control arms and the RK line.

 

For UCA, after several aftermarket pros and cons - I decided to go with oem since I am planning to keep the car for a long time.

LBJ Moog "555" - great if you don't mind greasing it

Cheers

 

Sorry to revive an old thread but what is the general consensus in regards to brand of LBJs to use - Moog K series from RockAuto or OEM? I would think a greasable joint would last longer.

Thanks...

Neil

 

MOOG problem solver front endlinks on my 07 GS450h after 9k miles

 

My friend had that exact same thing happen to the boots on a moog tie rod end on his 2001 Volvo. I wonder if the parts are just getting old and the rubber is bad. We had to replace it after less than 2000 miles because the boot was totally gone

 

Finding good suspension components is providing quite the task here in that I personally keep getting referenced back to Moog and what im seeing first hand with duralast parts and the like is that the overall quality for any of the parts is the same, being a 50/50 hit or miss of success and this scares me long term because im attempting in re-doing every piece of rubber and suspension linkage this year.......so adding checking part numbers to my list of things as well now... :/