WHEN I TURN I HEAR MY FRONT ROTOR MAKING A NOISE? I LOOK AT IT AND IT HAS PLAY IN IT. I CAN MOVE IT BACK AND FORTH? IS THIS NORMAL? I PLAN ON REPLACING MY ROTORS, ANY INFO ON HOW. ANYONE HAVE A LINK TO A HOW TO SOMEWHERE? PLEASE HELP, ANY INFO WOULD BE APPRECIARTED. THANX TO ALL!

 

i don't have pics but i have helped changing it on my car before. basically you just take off the caliper and you are able to pull the rotor straight out. it's not holding by any bolts at all, just clamped intok placey by the calipers and the pads

if your pads get thinner and thinner, i wouldn't be surprised that the rotor might get a bit loose, but it should not be very loose

 

actually the rotor should not get loose ever, even your don't have any pad left, the rotor spin independent from the brake caliper and pads, and held in place by your wheel. (wheel studs and your wheel )

I definitely take the wheel off and see why the rotor is loose (in/out direction, ie to the left and right of the car) (not back and forth, spining direction, that is normal)

you normally don't replace the rotor until it get too thin or warped and can't be re-surface.

you may need a 10mm bolt to force the rotor out, if you have not mess with the brake before, I recommend NOT to touch it. Your car can stop or not depend on it.

Open the the bolt to remove the caplier to change pad or remove the rotor is not easy. need a strong arm for that if you don't have an air gun.

Anh

 

oh crap, yeah if the wheels are still on, yes, the rotors should NOT be loose at all. but if the wheel is off, then i think it might move back a forth a bit. is that right, anh?

 

yes rominl, if the wheel is off, the rotor can move around, in and out, definitely

 

thank god you scared me over there anh

 

Well, it should be on there pretty tight though...you really should need the bolt to remove it (or a good whack with a rubber mallet). You shouldn't be able to remove the wheel, remove the caliper and just have the rotor fall off...

Tim

 

umm... no idea on that.... when i installed my upgrade, the guy took off my whele and caliper, and he yanged a bit and took out the rotor @_@

 

There are two threaded holes in the rotor face between the lug bolts.

I had to put two bolts in those holes and tighten them in order to "crack" the rotor away from the axle hub when I replaced my rotors. After many thousands of miles I suppose the rotors will stick due to rust, etc.

In any case, like what was already said, the rotors should not move in and out with the wheel bolted on.

 

rominl, the rotors sometime is loosed after you remove the wheel, other time you have to force it out, it's depend on the rust level at the center shaft where the rotor attached to the wheel assembly. If it is rusted, it will hold the rotor in-place really hard, and you have to force it out to replace it. If not, then it will come loose easily. ;-)

(this is with the wheel already removed)

 

I noticed a "clink" sound in my front end when I stopped after reversing, and then again when I stopped after going forward. It would only do it once after each direction change, so I knew it was something shifting position.

I searched under the car for about an hour, checking sway bars, suspenision hardware, wheel bearings, etc. It wasn't till I took the wheel off that I found the problem.

Even with the wheels properly torqued the rotor can turn on the hub a tiny bit under braking. The rotor thru holes are about 2mm larger than the wheel studs, allowing some rotational play. Until the studs make contact with the rotor hole edges, you are relying on friction to hold that rotor still. The friction comes from 2 interfaces: the rotor against the hub, and the rotor against the wheel.

Normal, everyday-driven cars will develop corrosion between these surfaces and dramatically improve their ability to hold (that is why we typically need to use pullers or thread in bolts to remove them). Additonally, since chrome is harder than Al (and doesn't oxidize as easily) it is pretty slippery against smooth cast iron (your rotor). So wheels with a chrome plated mounting pad will slip much easier.

My car came from the desert Southwest and had only been in the rain twice. That environment, along with chrome wheels, didn't develop much "bonding" between the parts so I was hearing the rotor hitting the studs when they slipped. Harmless, but annoying. Since the car's been up here in the Northeast, I haven't heard it much, even though I still try to avoid the rain.

If elclassico has chrome wheels and he lives in dry area, this might be the noise he is hearing. I'm not too sure what he means by moving "in and out" though. If the wheel is off, it's supposed to be loose.

He can check it by installing the wheel with the rotor holes perfectly centered over the studs. Then, get rolling about 3mph and jab the brakes. Take the wheel off and see it it shifted. Mine did!

 

clicking noise in low speed when brake is due to the pads moving back and forth, 100% sure of it. Those of us that have the SupraTT brake, we have to get the shim kit for this, to prevent the pad from moving around.

the rotor can shift under pressure but will not make any noise (loose noise), 80lbs of force per square inches on each of the 5 bolts, you will not likely to have a loose rotor.

 

Banana:

I get that noise too. It's more like a click. This was a loud "clink" (very metallic sounding).

I agree it is unlikely to have the rotor slip, but I guarantee it can happen. I can prove it mathematically, if you like

Oh, and it's 80ft-lbs torque on each of the nuts, which translates into a heyll of a lot more than 80psi!!!

 

hahaha, prove it right here man

but seriously it really shouldn't move, i mean the rotors. mine is dead solid

and i dont' hear any noise with my upgrade

 

Romini:

OK, now where's my Dynamics book? Hmmm.

Seriously though, Not everyones will do it. In fact, most won't. But I still argue that some will, given the right conditions. You're gonna have to trust the engineer on this one