so for the past 2 days i've been trying to install my stance GR+'s and i had a buddy of mine help me that's done coil installs before. We both ran into troubles along the way, not using a spring compressor lol which wasn't to fun for awhile but we got the rears out by jumping on the hub until it came off the top. so today day 2 we tackled the fronts and the first left front went great very smooth but when it came down to the right front this is where we had the trouble. the UCA bolt (long *** ****) was bent and would not come out. i think this is where im getting my random violent vibrations from? i tried to hammer the bolt out but could only get the tip of the threads to match up with the UCA bushings. i took it to a buddy that owned a shop and he tried to use an impact hammer on it, no luck as well. so he came up with the idea to cut the right side of the bolt and just hammer it through that way and just keep cutting the bolt down by pieces. does anyone have any other idea on how to get this bolt off? i've called the dealerships to get another bolt but these people are idiots telling me that it's not a long bolt but in fact 2 separate bolts.

from a little bit of research i think the part number for this bolt is 90101-14046. someone people correct me if im wrong so im not ordering the wrong part.

 

They may be confused with lower control arm bolts, that why they suggested two. If you cannot get one through the dealer try online or a junkyard. Supra suspension components bolt right up to the SC, that should expand your options when looking for this bolt.

I have never had to take the UCA off to do coilovers on the the JZA80 chassis, I've done quite a few. The trick is to unbolt the sway bar end links to release tension on the suspension while it's in full droop; this is also best done when both wheels are off the ground per "axle". Unbolting the sway bar requires less weight to force the control arms down when removing the strut assembly.

 

Actually, i found it far easier to remove the sway bar mounts. Removing the end links can become a pain especially if you strip the hex inside the threaded body. And yes, do it as the front or rear (working with only the front or the rear) is completely off the ground and the suspension has drooped.

 

You jumped on your hub to get the spring out and you're calling other people idiots? Really?

There's a reason you can rent spring compressor for $10 and return it. You could have hurt your self big time.

Your suspension still has a load on it, thus the reason your bolts are had to get out. You need to align the arms to a point to where this no load on them.

 

I've done a couple of cars the same way, removing the two bolts to the mount, good way as well. The last car I did coilovers on was missing the bolt closest to the subframe on both sides. I saw that and no way I was going to attempt breaking the second one loose. It was on a Supra, since they have aluminum control arms, I'm thinking the steel bolt seized to the arm and the previous owner snapped them while attempting to lower the car.

 

okay so you're telling me that i do not need to actually unbolt the UCAs to clear the stock struts for the fronts? i jus have to unbolt the sway bars? if that's correct then damn i could have saved a lot of time.


yeah man, they told me MKIV LCAs would not fit my SC3 i laughed and hung up the phone. the reason we had to jump on the hub is because my friend did not realize the spring would expand. he has a 08 s2k and none of his springs expanded so i guess that was both our faults for not researching that little bit in depth. i know i could have hurt myself big time but thanks god we got everything to work out.




UPDATE: so i went ahead and ordered the long rod/bolt. when i bought the car the owner told me there was an accident on that side where the bolt is bent. i guess they replaced everything consmetic expect for the suspension. it's bent badly maybe that's where im getting my random vibrations from. can't get the washer and nut on because i tried to hammer it out and messed up the threads and don't want to bother to chase it. thanks for everyones imput on this.

 

If you've already got coil overs then generally speaking you can do that, but a loaded spring when you take off the top hub will have a load on it.

You need to jack the LCA a significant amount to match the ride height of the coil over and generally when you get to that point that long rod will be unloaded and easily able to get out.

Future reference, put the nut on the very end and hit it with a rubber mallet while twisting the other side - never hit metal on metal.

The suspension bolts/nuts are very heavy grade so cutting through them takes patience and the right tools.

Get your car up on a puller at a body shop before you mess with suspension and get your specs right or else you will continue to have issues, coil overs will only make the issues worse.

 

should be able to clear it just fine, just disconnect the sway bar end links and take out the bottom shock bracket. After that, you should be able to take the stock assembly out

 

Update: part came in and it's CONFIRMED "90101-14046" is the part # needed if you guys ever ever need to replace the UCA rod/bolt. only cost me $9 which was awesome.

we cut the other side of the nut where it wasn't bent and hammered it out. installed the new coilover and the new bolt/rod and everything is perfect, so far no vibrations but lots of noise due to me needed new brakes and rotors lol well time to save up for my LS400 rotors and SS lines.

 

I never needed a spring compressor when I did my install on the coilovers. I just made things easier by unbolting the sway bar link. I did need to push down on the hub tho.

 

Keep us posted if this fixes your vibration...

 

update:

looks the vibrations have stopped. i have hub rings on my rims and everything in torqued down properly. replaced the UCA bolt and i still get a tiny vibration going over 60. crusing at 40 everything is good and solid, nothing vibrates. i really think it's my bushings cause i took a peep at them and they are dry rotted and cracking. so either supra TT LCA's or polly bushings.