Brake install
11-05-10, 06:11 PM
#1
Brake install
I am about to have my brakes installed by a friend of mine who is a tech for European sport cars and domestics. He is going to help me install my stoptech brakes and steel lines. My question is, should I need to know anything before we do this (I.e. Hardware, parts, tips)?
I have 1.5 liters of brake fluid and all the parts. If you guys have anything you can suggest. That would be awesome.
I have 1.5 liters of brake fluid and all the parts. If you guys have anything you can suggest. That would be awesome.
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11-08-10, 06:53 AM
#9
bleeding rears requires the ignition to be in the on position for our cars.
start from farthest from the brake master cylinder. so for a lhd car, its rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger front driver brake in that order.
best to have 2 ppl, if not, a brake evacuator pump helps too.
when doing the front, pump brake pedal 3 times, hold with foot, then get someone to open the bleeder screw and close it when the pedal sinks to the bottom. the 3 pumps garantees enough pressure build up. do this several times.
since u are swapping out all of the fluid, this may be a bit long of a process as the gs has a pretty big resevoir.
dot 3 and dot 4 can be mixed, dot 5 cannot be mixed with any other brake fluid other than dot 5.
start from farthest from the brake master cylinder. so for a lhd car, its rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger front driver brake in that order.
best to have 2 ppl, if not, a brake evacuator pump helps too.
when doing the front, pump brake pedal 3 times, hold with foot, then get someone to open the bleeder screw and close it when the pedal sinks to the bottom. the 3 pumps garantees enough pressure build up. do this several times.
since u are swapping out all of the fluid, this may be a bit long of a process as the gs has a pretty big resevoir.
dot 3 and dot 4 can be mixed, dot 5 cannot be mixed with any other brake fluid other than dot 5.
11-08-10, 09:21 AM
#10
bleeding rears requires the ignition to be in the on position for our cars.
start from farthest from the brake master cylinder. so for a lhd car, its rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger front driver brake in that order.
best to have 2 ppl, if not, a brake evacuator pump helps too.
when doing the front, pump brake pedal 3 times, hold with foot, then get someone to open the bleeder screw and close it when the pedal sinks to the bottom. the 3 pumps garantees enough pressure build up. do this several times.
since u are swapping out all of the fluid, this may be a bit long of a process as the gs has a pretty big resevoir.
dot 3 and dot 4 can be mixed, dot 5 cannot be mixed with any other brake fluid other than dot 5.
start from farthest from the brake master cylinder. so for a lhd car, its rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger front driver brake in that order.
best to have 2 ppl, if not, a brake evacuator pump helps too.
when doing the front, pump brake pedal 3 times, hold with foot, then get someone to open the bleeder screw and close it when the pedal sinks to the bottom. the 3 pumps garantees enough pressure build up. do this several times.
since u are swapping out all of the fluid, this may be a bit long of a process as the gs has a pretty big resevoir.
dot 3 and dot 4 can be mixed, dot 5 cannot be mixed with any other brake fluid other than dot 5.
that way you can just keep pumping with the valve opened. Its like $5 for the bleed kit that comes with a 1 way valve 
well worth the price IMO 
11-08-10, 12:13 PM
#11
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SorrGwa...nice writeup.
the brake booster pump helps...you'll hear it when you turn the ignition to ON position...sounds like a mini-compressor in the engine bay....but having the extra person, imo is a plus.
make sure the clear hose is the proper size..and fits snuggly to the bleeder valve. the other end of the hose is attached to a clear plastic water bottle...i just drill a hole at the top of the cap and push the hose through. i chose a clear bottle so I can see the color of the brake fluid.
start at the rear right...then rear left....front left...and end at the front left.
bleed each corner until you see no air bubbles and clean brake fluid. old brake fluid is darker in color. also check regularly the brake fluid reservoir...make sure its full...if its empty, then you may have let air into the system again.
good luck.
the brake booster pump helps...you'll hear it when you turn the ignition to ON position...sounds like a mini-compressor in the engine bay....but having the extra person, imo is a plus.
make sure the clear hose is the proper size..and fits snuggly to the bleeder valve. the other end of the hose is attached to a clear plastic water bottle...i just drill a hole at the top of the cap and push the hose through. i chose a clear bottle so I can see the color of the brake fluid.
start at the rear right...then rear left....front left...and end at the front left.
bleed each corner until you see no air bubbles and clean brake fluid. old brake fluid is darker in color. also check regularly the brake fluid reservoir...make sure its full...if its empty, then you may have let air into the system again.
good luck.
11-08-10, 12:35 PM
#12
I think the repair manual calls for bleeding of the fronts first.
a) Ignition off. Pump brake pedal more than 40 times or until the pedal reaction force becomes heavy and stroke becomes shorter.
b) Turn ignition on. Check that the boost pump stops after 30 - 40 seconds. When the pump does not stop, repeat step (a) and (b).
c) With the ignition remaining on, pump the brake pedal more than 20 times.
d) Bleed the right and left front calipers.
e) Holding the brake pedal depressed, bleed the right and left rear calipers. You do not need to pump the brakes as fluid will continuously flow from the bleeders.
a) Ignition off. Pump brake pedal more than 40 times or until the pedal reaction force becomes heavy and stroke becomes shorter.
b) Turn ignition on. Check that the boost pump stops after 30 - 40 seconds. When the pump does not stop, repeat step (a) and (b).
c) With the ignition remaining on, pump the brake pedal more than 20 times.
d) Bleed the right and left front calipers.
e) Holding the brake pedal depressed, bleed the right and left rear calipers. You do not need to pump the brakes as fluid will continuously flow from the bleeders.
11-08-10, 12:42 PM
#13
bleeding rears requires the ignition to be in the on position for our cars.
start from farthest from the brake master cylinder. so for a lhd car, its rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger front driver brake in that order.
best to have 2 ppl, if not, a brake evacuator pump helps too.
when doing the front, pump brake pedal 3 times, hold with foot, then get someone to open the bleeder screw and close it when the pedal sinks to the bottom. the 3 pumps garantees enough pressure build up. do this several times.
since u are swapping out all of the fluid, this may be a bit long of a process as the gs has a pretty big reservoir.
dot 3 and dot 4 can be mixed, dot 5 cannot be mixed with any other brake fluid other than dot 5.
start from farthest from the brake master cylinder. so for a lhd car, its rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger front driver brake in that order.
best to have 2 ppl, if not, a brake evacuator pump helps too.
when doing the front, pump brake pedal 3 times, hold with foot, then get someone to open the bleeder screw and close it when the pedal sinks to the bottom. the 3 pumps garantees enough pressure build up. do this several times.
since u are swapping out all of the fluid, this may be a bit long of a process as the gs has a pretty big reservoir.
dot 3 and dot 4 can be mixed, dot 5 cannot be mixed with any other brake fluid other than dot 5.
Be aware DOT 4 or mixing of fluids may have severe affect on your seals.
the pic below show a new cap (left) Vs a 1 week old cap (right), after the filling of DOT 4 into the reservoir. if this is what it will do to your cap imagine your other seals.
11-12-10, 06:50 AM
#15
yeah i tried those before on my old car, earls made one way bleeder screws that you just match up to the right thread pitch and sizing as the stock ones. turns out they didnt work so well so ive always stuck with the oem bleeder screw. maybe other ppl have had better experience with them than i have.
if you have shop equipment like an evacuator to suck out the air/old brake fluid from the bleeder screw then that would be the best option. or a presurized canister to push from the brake master cylinder. op did say he's getting his friend whom is a mech, so maybe they will have that equipment.
if you have shop equipment like an evacuator to suck out the air/old brake fluid from the bleeder screw then that would be the best option. or a presurized canister to push from the brake master cylinder. op did say he's getting his friend whom is a mech, so maybe they will have that equipment.