Outer Tie rod frozen - help?
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 27
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From: OH
Outer Tie rod frozen - help?
I am in the process of replacing the lower ball joint and outer tie rod (passenger side) on my 99 GS400 - I have run in to a problem getting my tie rod off - it seems to be frozen and I can't get it loose using 2 cresent wrenches. Any DIY tips on getting this tie rod off?
Thanks in advance...
Thanks in advance...
Spray on some penetrating oil like PB plaster and find something with more leverage (longer wrench). If you're replacing the outer rod, you can just slip the wrench onto the hex nut and use your foot to kick it. It should break the nut loose.
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: OH
Hmmm - I still can't get this loosened up - I am rotating (trying to) the wrenches in the directions of the arrows below - are these backwards due to the hex nut being there? Also - should I have a wrench on the hex nut as oposed to the rod?
Spray on some penetrating oil like PB plaster and find something with more leverage (longer wrench). If you're replacing the outer rod, you can just slip the wrench onto the hex nut and use your foot to kick it. It should break the nut loose.
Yes! Put the wrench on the hex nut!!
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: OH
Thats what I would have originally thought but I read in here somewhere not to mess with the nut and to just take the tie rod end off by secureing the inner tie rod while yoiuare unscrewing?
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I'm not sure why anyone would suggest that if the hex nut is there to lock the outer tie rod to the inner rod. If you are removing the rod by loosening the inner tie rod, then the hex nut wasn't secured in the first place.
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All you need to do is loosen it and then leave it close to it's original location. That way, you will be able to attach the rod back to the original location (that is what they mean when they said not to mess with it).
Driver
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 102
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From: RVA
Hate to bump this, but I've run into a problem.
I was doing an alignment on my car for my alignment class and found the hex nut on both tie rods to be completely siezed to the tie rod. We tried PB Blaser, a smoke wrench, and all out brute strength, but nothing would get them to budge. I need to know the size of the hex nuts, because we're going to have to cut them off to adjust my toe. My right front toe is way out of spec right now, 0.49 degrees, where the spec calls for 0.18 degrees maximum.
I the nut on Sewell for $1.29 each, but I'm paying $8.50 for bare minimum shipping on 2 nuts. Does anyone know what size that nut is, thread pitch and all that?
I was doing an alignment on my car for my alignment class and found the hex nut on both tie rods to be completely siezed to the tie rod. We tried PB Blaser, a smoke wrench, and all out brute strength, but nothing would get them to budge. I need to know the size of the hex nuts, because we're going to have to cut them off to adjust my toe. My right front toe is way out of spec right now, 0.49 degrees, where the spec calls for 0.18 degrees maximum.
I the nut on Sewell for $1.29 each, but I'm paying $8.50 for bare minimum shipping on 2 nuts. Does anyone know what size that nut is, thread pitch and all that?
You are probably turning it the wrong way to where the nut is being turned into the arm. Also, you should take that nut off with the balljoint in place. It's a lot easier since you don't have to hold the rod. The suspension does it for you. Search my post and you find a thread I started about this.
Considering you're in Ohio (salt belt) I bet that thing is pretty frozen on there. I had one hell of a time doing mine because I don't have a lift and since I couldn't get the car up high enough, I couldn't get a cheater bar. Kicking it is an option but you also have to hold the inner side as well which makes it a pita.
Try soaking it with PB blaster for a night or two prior to the day you plan on working. Apply heat on the outer tie rod end (I'm always hesitant to apply heat on metal to parts i'm not replacing...) and give it a try.
good luck!
Try soaking it with PB blaster for a night or two prior to the day you plan on working. Apply heat on the outer tie rod end (I'm always hesitant to apply heat on metal to parts i'm not replacing...) and give it a try.
good luck!