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Coilover/CA bushing question...ScARY

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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 08:50 PM
  #16  
ElitistK's Avatar
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use a miata.

http://zilvia.net/f/chat/180249-bush...ternative.html

disclaimer: i am not responsible for your death.
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 08:59 PM
  #17  
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^^ haha I was just thinking about that earlier.
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 09:49 PM
  #18  
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Honestly if you are having a shop do the CA than having them swap the coils since they are already in there makes a lot more sense. In order to install the Daizen bushings the whole spindle and hub comes out, than the ball joint, outer tie rods, than lower control arm and caster arm, than the upper control arm. Take it to a shop have it pressed out if you are hell bent on doing it yourself. Reinstall in reverse order.

When you do the bushings you will need a realignment same when you do the coils makes no sense to do the coils if the shop will be doing the CA bushings. Here is a pic of my front suspension apart for the bushing change just to give you a picture of what I mean, and this is before I even removed the lower control arm and caster arm.

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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 09:52 PM
  #19  
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I like how you used a suitcase to support the caliper!
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 08:32 AM
  #20  
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yeah that was my plan, either that or having the bushings done, going straight back and installing the coils myself, then going and getting an alignment. But 850 seems crazy even for that...
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 09:49 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by whazzzzuup
I like how you used a suitcase to support the caliper!
It was the only thing that I could come up with to hold the TT caliper, the damn thing is heavy.
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 09:51 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by jcat_GS3
yeah that was my plan, either that or having the bushings done, going straight back and installing the coils myself, then going and getting an alignment. But 850 seems crazy even for that...
Like you said that was the only price you found out, find someone cheaper, if you can't and want to save money I can walk you through it.
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 10:32 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Spyder78
Like you said that was the only price you found out, find someone cheaper, if you can't and want to save money I can walk you through it.
thanks man, i'm shopping it around a little so i'll definitely let you know. Torching should work alright on those no? I mean wouldn't it either melt or contract the rubber and leave the metal fairly untouched?
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 10:40 AM
  #24  
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Just get someone with a press and be done with it. Torching takes forever and even if you get the rubber out, you still have the metal sleeve to deal with. Trust me i've gone through this and there is no easier way than having them pressed out. My friend (shop owner) does the whole job in just 3-3.5hrs and he doesn't have to cut/torch anything.
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 10:56 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by GSteg
Just get someone with a press and be done with it. Torching takes forever and even if you get the rubber out, you still have the metal sleeve to deal with. Trust me i've gone through this and there is no easier way than having them pressed out. My friend (shop owner) does the whole job in just 3-3.5hrs and he doesn't have to cut/torch anything.
Gsteg is right torching wont help much. Getting the metal sleeves out is the problem.
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 12:00 PM
  #26  
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torching aint do shi for me... Do we have Wheel Bearing in the front and how often do they go bad.. i think my Tie Rods are the ones giving me vibration.
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 12:25 PM
  #27  
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yeah, i just got another quote today from a more reputable shop and they said about 550 with an alignment (inclusive of changing out all the bushings, installing the coils, and alignment). Seems better, but I put a call in to one of my friends that works at another shop and i'll try and get a better number.
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 01:50 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by eyecon7
torching aint do shi for me... Do we have Wheel Bearing in the front and how often do they go bad.. i think my Tie Rods are the ones giving me vibration.
Yes; there are wheel bearings on the front wheels. I do not have an answer on how often they go bad. However, you can test it by jacking the car up and checking for play. If there is play in the wheel, then it is bad. Also, there should be a low humming sound when the car is moving.
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