Okay... we are all on a different page here... Exact... this question is directed towards you... I know that the factory torque specs are 83ft-lbs for those bolts... You are saying to torque them down to 120ft-lbs with out giving a reason why...

So my question is why are you telling us to use 120ft-lbs? Is it because the bolts are different? or because they are longer? or what?

Please respond to this post in a clear and definitive manner so that every one knows why we need to follow your specs and NOT the factory specs...

just the one bolt... the one that is closest to the passenger door or the rear of the car as a point of reference. The strange thing is that I could not find the bolt... This happened in my drive way... so you would expect the bolt to fall down somewhere around there... but I couldn't find it...

I'd like an answer too. Just because they're 12.9 grade bolts, doesn't mean you should up the spec by 37lbs, especially since 120 is about the limits of these bolts already. Coupled that with tension due to the weight of the car, you're really stressing the bolts. Now there are lots of people who haven't had problems, but I wouldn't bet on it.

The factory bolts are only grade 10.9 and requires 83ftlbs. Adding an inch in length to the bolts and then upping the grade to 12.9 does not warrant an extra 37ftlbs. That is A LOT of extra torque

Yes...I agree. Exact needs to explain how they decided on 120ft lbs on their bolts? Simply saying 120 ft lbs is not enough.

Also, does anyone know the length of the Exact bolts (less the head) in milimeters?

Pete

70mm without the head and 40mm of it is threaded.

At that much force working on it...I wouldn't expect it to be near by. It probably bounced off to outerspace.

I listed a link previously. measure the bolt before it's installed and then measure the bolt after spec. If there is any slight difference in the measurement...you are compromised. Btw, there are/exist defective bolts too.

Does it come with washers? I think 70mm without any washers maybe a bit too long....and a possible reason why the Exact bolt snapped when over-torqued.

No, the front RCAs do not come with washers.

Just when I was thinking about doing something to correct my suspension geometry from lowering...

subscribed.

Hmmmm...

OEM bolt length is 34.5 mm + 30 mm RCA = 64.5 mm (minimum new bolt length).

A 70 mm bolt without any washers is too long. Im thinking 70 mm bolt with a few mm of washers is ideal.

It has to be exact length for one of the side...if the measurement is correct, one of the bolt must use a 7/16 inch washer or two. The other bolt may not need washer but it's recommended. Use steel washer or something close to keep the torque in check. I think the metal washers will fatigue so re-torque it once in a while or when you get a chance.

If the bolts were too long, then tightening it is effectively trying to twist the top off since it can not go futher up.

I installed the new bolts and torqued them down to 100ft-pounds for now... I really need an explanation as to why Exact is saying to put them at 120ft-lbs!!!! Going to test car which has been down for 2 weeks tonight!!!

still no pictures bro! i wanna see how the problem happend! damage !

Both will need washers.

Even though you can see the tip of the bolt for the door side...I pretty sure the opening does NOT allow the bolt to pass-through.

I agree. With the long bolts (without washers) and over-torqued...even the highest grade bolts (12.9) will snap when topped off.