5sp_jzz30

iTrader: (2)

i hope this is a freebie as far as brake knowledge is concerned. the reason to go drilled and/or slotted is to held dissipate heat and let the gases that built up during breaking escape somewhere. most high performance cars will still have drilled and/or slotted rotors but they will make up for the lost rotor surface area by using a bigger rotor.

putting drilled and/or slotted rotors on a car with stock brake setup and stock sized rotors can actually decrease your breaking performance for daily driving. it may be an improvement on the track since it reduces brake fade......but that will also depend on the kind of brake pad you use....so this story never ends

Stupidnewb

Actually, cross-drilled/slotted rotors are counter-productive in terms of cooling and brake pads haven't given off gasses in 50 years. The only benefit is less rotating mass. You get less braking surface area, less dissipation mass, more sharp edges to chew up your brake pads, and more places for your rotors to crack. Oh yea, and you can't really turn them on a lathe. But boy do they look neato!

5sp_jzz30

iTrader: (2)

you really thing its worth slotting and drilling a rotor to lose less then a pound? i dont think so. true the slotted/drilled rotor will have less rotating mass but the difference is so marginal that its negligible. what sharp edges are you talking about. if you drill them by hand then maybe. only cheap crappy rotors that have not been engineered properly to handle the thermal and mechanical loads will fail and crack. i can take pics of plenty of racing rotors i have at the shop that lasted more then a season on toyota atlantic formula cars with no problems.

turning on a lathe....wtf are you talking about? btw you CAN turn rotors on a lathe. its just a pain in the ***. to mount them.

i dont know you so i cant comment on any experience you have in either racing or working in a machine shop but i can tell you that what you have stated is partially if not totally wrong and ignorant to say.

if you want to prove me wrong get some real data and throw it in my face. i deal with material properties all day. your arguments dont make sense unless the person designing the given part doesnt know what he is doing.

the typical drilled rotor myth that they crack. not if they are properly designed. i wouldnt be surprised if most ebay rotors do. maybe not under daily driving. take them to the track and see.

Stupidnewb

Yea, you're wrong. I used to be a fleet mechanic, that's my experience. Sure, you can throw any rotor on a lathe, but you can kiss your cutting blades goodbye. Everything I said was true, I'm not sure where you got any of your information, as you have not posted any sources. Here's some technical info for you to read! The first thread includes information from Baer, Wilwood, Stoptech, and Grassroots Motorsports.

http://www.celicatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1646

http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?...d=19&Itemid=50

http://www.evolvecars.com/site/index...13,286,0,0,1,0

5sp_jzz30

iTrader: (2)

good info...for the most part. if you read everything yourself you would realize that most of it talks about the disadvantages of drilled/slotted rotors for street use. as far as track performance they are superior.

i dont know what kind of cutters you use in your lathe but mine wont wear out after cutting some rotors, or a flywheel, or anything else for that matter. its all cast iron. its is a tough but brittle laterial, at least the flywheel is. the carbine cutter are dirt cheap and out of each one you can get 8 cutting tips. as far as i can see its not a effective way to do it but it can be done...WITHOUT ANY TOOL DAMAGE. if you think the lathe cutters cant stand up to the abuse then what are the cutters on a brake lathe made out of.

most racers wouldnt even care for the weight reduction of a rotor because there days most racing rotors are make from some sort of a carbon ceramic composite. it weighs then steel and has much higher thermal capacity. the weight to performance cant be beat.

btw fleet mechanic? im not bashing what you do but that experience does not make you an expert on the topic. im not sayin i am either but im talking from my experience working at a racing shop.

Stupidnewb

You can lead a horse to water...

longy

hey gunluv i think that your maths is flawed.

Firstly, shouldnt the distance used be radius - 1/2 width of pad, as in half 'up' the pad?

Secondly you would need to use the total pad area not the area of the piston contact area (which is technically wrong) . this is because the pads are solid and therefore exert a force over all the area. i will agree that there will be a difference in pressure depending on its closeness to a piston, however i dont believe that this pressure is negligible.

How will this change the results? i dont know as i dont have access to the information required.

fell free to correct me if i am wrong.

CrazySC300

iTrader: (16)

Sorry to bring up an old thread, But it didn't answer my question...

I have both Twin Turbo Supra front and rear calipers, The question is...Is it advisable to get the T.T Supra's Master Cylinder as well? I only use my '95 SC300 car for daily driving, I rarely drive faster than 75 mph and I highly doubt this car will ever see the track. So what do you guys think? Thanks!

1slowsc

iTrader: (2)

I have supra tt brakes front and rear with stock sc3 master cylinder and brakes pedel feels normal and eliminated brake pedel sinking in when hard braking. You should be fine with stock

cartmill

iTrader: (3)

read em' and weep:

http://www.centricparts.com/files/Ce...erformance.pdf

here are more of centric's white papers about brakes (very informative):

http://www.centricparts.com/index.ph...121&Itemid=212

CrazySC300

iTrader: (16)

Ah got it! Thanks very much!

lbboy350

I have drilled and slotted rotors on my car and my wife's. I like the way drilled rotors look and perform. I noticed the difference, it wasn't night and day but there was defintely a improvement. I also like the whirling sound they make during hard stops.

I mean there has to be some type of benefit, otherwise all these brake manufacture's woudln't be making them. Just a thought.

Phamtom

iTrader: (2)

What is an ideal setup guys? I feel foolish asking but what are your guys' preferences in rotors and pads? I am tracking my car with LS400 front calipers.

WadeLovell

iTrader: (5)

If you are going to track then go drilled and slotted. You already have large calipers and rotors. If I followed this incredibly long thread correctly, there is not much point to changing out the master cylinder or the rear calipers in your case. On the track you are trying to eliminate brake fade which results from heat building up. The holes and slots help dissipate the heat. I like EBC pads but pick your poison (and color). Organic are terrible. Metallic stop well but when I drive on them they have a short life and so do my rotors. I am currently using EBC Blue Stuff pads because I still drive on the street and they have a higher Cold MU than the Yellows. If you are ONLY going to track, I would go with EBC Orange Stuff pads.

stevechumo

iTrader: (5)

Go with ceramic pads if you track. They make a little more grinding noise than organic (not even too bad for a luxury ride), but they don't fade easily.