pmanliu

iTrader: (4)

http://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.co...1672G1485.html

check the diagram to make sure that is indeed the part you are looking for

benztolex

Yep that's it bro. Thanks I ordered it.

MrFRJ

iTrader: (2)

Well I'll be suiting up for this mission very soon, hopefully no problems arise

pwr2loud4u

Agreed most of the drops are are waste! I first put on tein S Tech springs using your post and it dropped around 3 inches but now I've upgraded to megan EZ coilovers LOVE THEM!! They ride great from factory but once you dampen the ride it's like being on a cloud plus I can run Lorenzo 20" w33 with no room and no scrub!

fooddude

I bet/think you can do this without a compressor. Here's how I've been doing it for 20+ years without a compressor on all sorts of different cars (hondas, toyotas, nissans, etc.)..it's also a known and greatly done method for those in the know:

1st bolt to undo: the top middle damper shaft nut
-Leave the upper perch/top hat bolted to the chassis (in this case, the top hat connected with the 3 bolts/nuts)
-Jack up the car - the weight of the car will act as a spring decompressor
-Remove all the bolts and nuts in the original instructions to be able to remove the springs (in this case: lca strut mount bolts, swaybar endlink bolts on lca, lca to spindle bolts, upper a-arm to chassis bolts, etc.). If any pressure is left, it will/might release downwards(safely) after sliding out the 19mm lower damper mount bolt.
-Remove the strut and spring assembly (while the top hat mounts are left alone and still bolted to chassis).
-Reassemble in reverse order with new spring.
-Needed if compression is needed with the new springs - To compress new springs on vehicle, assemble spring on strut, guide the tip of the upper shaft through the middle hole in the upper top hat, align lower strut hole to the lca mount hole and slide the 19mm bolt through it to partly reassemble and keep it in place, place a jack under the lca and slowly jack up the lca and compress the strut/spring until the upper shaft goes completely through the middle hole in the upper top hat (while making sure springs are properly seated and aligned on its' lower seat/perch). When there is enough of the upper shaft through the middle hole on the top hat in the engine bay, reinstall the middle nut and torque down.
-Reassemble everything else in reverse order.

This method should work...unless these springs are abnormally super long and super compressed (which I doubt).... I never came across a single car that this method didn't work with.


Doesn't hurt to try this method, especially if you already have rented a spring compressor that's by your side . If it doesn't work, then just use the spring compressor you rented ...but, if you do try this method and it DOES work for these large Lexuses...then please reply back on here and confirm if it worked. We'd all appreciate it if it can be confirmed that this method works and it'll help the community ..but, I'd put money on it that it'll work

pz

.

g1itchgsr

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the write-up! My H&R springs are coming this coming Wednesday

mandipcarz

MIca250

Great pics and information bro.
How long did it take you to get it done? I want to try this myself because I can't find anyone in my area to do it. I've never lowered a car so it'll be my first time.

D3AN

iTrader: (17)

I just did this today and I'd like to add some tips to make things a bit easier for anyone else who's gonna do this.

1. Front and rear: When taking out the long bolts on the lower control arm, it's easier to remove the bolts instead of the nuts. The nut has teeth that lock.

2. Front: Instead of removing the upper control arm or ball joint, instead remove the 2 bolts under the hub. I think they were 19mm, theyre pretty visible and easy to get to.

3. Rear: remove the bolt connected to the sway bar, it makes taking out and putting the rear shock so much easier.

4. Rear: you can leave the spring compressor the shock and readjust the top so it fits.

5. Front: I'm not sure if you can leave the compressor on the fronts. I used a rope and lopped it through the bolt hole at the bottom and lined it with the top bolt. I marked every place where the rope contacted the shock. This way when i reassemble the shock with new springs, I can just align everything back using the rope and my markings.

Good luck

Ktran1039

iTrader: (1)

I read through this entire thread, but I still have a couple concerns.

1) Will lowering your car on ebiachs or H&R on stock shocks cause your shocks to blow?

2) if youre planning to only drop about 1", how much will your camber/toe be affected?

I saw above that front camber is off by a bit... But didnt know if the toe was off before or after the drop!

3) for you guys that have done the drop on stock shocks please chime in with your experience/reviews down the road!

Thanks in advance

mitsuboost

iTrader: (1)

I have Fsport springs on stock shocks and they're fine, I've also swapped many springs and shocks on different Japanese cars onto stock shocks and never had a problem before so you should be ok.

tnoice

You just need to have an alignment done afterwards. My adjustments were not off by much with the f-sport springs, but toe and front camber did need to be adjusted slightly to bring it within specs.

Ktran1039

iTrader: (1)

Awesome, I've had a lot of ppl tell me they'll blow out in a few months if I lower on stocks

Ktran1039

iTrader: (1)

Oh nice! sounds very tempting

primavera

This is easy and straightforward. Make sure you spray all nuts and bolts with PB Blaster the night before.