DIY Lower Ball Joints for the 2nd Gen GS. - Step by Step Instructions and Pictures - Page 6 - ClubLexus - Lexus Forum Discussion


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Old 01-07-15, 01:33 PM
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DIY Lower Ball Joints for the 2nd Gen GS. - Step by Step Instructions and Pictures

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Old 02-25-10, 07:41 PM   #76
LudeNsoL
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how much would a shop charge to do this... i just got my LBJ today and i dont know if i want to do it myself
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Old 03-01-10, 11:57 AM   #77
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I just had my up and low ball joints replaced now my abs,vsc light are on what do i do
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Old 03-01-10, 12:17 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phionia View Post
I just had my up and low ball joints replaced now my abs,vsc light are on what do i do
try re-setting the ecu. did anyone touch the abs line during removal and re-installation of the ball joints?
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Old 03-03-10, 11:33 PM   #79
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Got the ball joints and tie rod ends on order from local Lexus. Since Sewell is in tx, I'd have to pay tax and shipping, so it wasnt worth ordering. Wish it was.

Here's my question. Does the ball joint assembly attach to the tie rod end? The service writer at my local shop says they are unrelated. They want to charge me 1hr for each lower ball joint and 1 hr for each tie rod end. 4 hrs. I told them the ball joint assembly attaches to the tie rod end and so its not a totally different procedure, just a small additional piece of work. Am I right or wrong here?

The only thing holding me back from doing it myself is the brake caliper removal. Do the pads or the clip fall out when you remove the caliper? Is it obvious how they go back together? Other than that, it looks like tinker toys.
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Old 03-22-10, 05:33 AM   #80
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Originally Posted by fasted1953 View Post
Got the ball joints and tie rod ends on order from local Lexus. Since Sewell is in tx, I'd have to pay tax and shipping, so it wasnt worth ordering. Wish it was.

Here's my question. Does the ball joint assembly attach to the tie rod end? The service writer at my local shop says they are unrelated. They want to charge me 1hr for each lower ball joint and 1 hr for each tie rod end. 4 hrs. I told them the ball joint assembly attaches to the tie rod end and so its not a totally different procedure, just a small additional piece of work. Am I right or wrong here?

The only thing holding me back from doing it myself is the brake caliper removal. Do the pads or the clip fall out when you remove the caliper? Is it obvious how they go back together? Other than that, it looks like tinker toys.
hey fasted

i just did the lower balljoints on mine and if you use the right size closed end wrench on the nut for the tie rod, you dont need to remove the caliper. it does make it easier to do that buy i didn't because i had the ability to use a lift at a friends shop. i have taken off the caliper before and it is not bad.

as for the dealer charging 4hr's labor, your going to get that at pretty much any shop. usually there is an hour charge for each thing you have fixed. even if two of the things are related. good luck
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Old 05-15-10, 08:37 PM   #81
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Excellent write-up. I just got done doing my left and right lower BJs..what a difference..
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Old 06-12-10, 11:29 AM   #82
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Please help me. I got the same problem as described below (found in LS400 forum):

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All was going fine changing out the LBJ ,stuck the new one over the tie rod end ,was screwing the caster nut down ,and it just keeps going .It goes way past the hole where the pin is supposed to go .It is a genuine Toyota part that I bought ,compared it with the old one ,and they are identicle !!Why would it just keep pressing down on the ball joint .Is the nut not supposed to bottom out ?
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Is this normal? I try to torque it but it just keep going...

Thanks in advance for your help!
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Old 06-12-10, 11:34 AM   #83
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keeps going?? as in the actuall ball joint is spinning around inside its unit?
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Old 06-12-10, 11:38 AM   #84
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Nope, nothing is spinning.

I just can keep turning the nut and it way beyond the cotter pin holes. I still haven't torqued it to spec.

When the new lower ball joint is in place, am I supposed to hear a loud "bang" also (like when I removed the older one)?

Edit: anyway, what I did is untighten the nut a little bit so that the cotter can be used. It still has quite some torque behind it. Made a testdrive, everything seems fine. My other problem is the passenger side ... I can't seem to take ball joint off. I have broken a ball joint puller already.

Do you think this method would work on the GS ?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ISY8bGof3bQ

Edit2: So tried again to seperate the ball joint from the arm with another tool. Didn't work. So I used the method in the video above. Worked like a charm. So you might want to consider this "technique" if you're having difficulties.

Last edited by YviE; 06-13-10 at 03:57 AM. Reason: update
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Old 09-18-10, 06:10 PM   #85
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Great job. I have been looking all over for this info. My lbj's are noisy and need to be replaced
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Old 09-18-10, 11:44 PM   #86
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Reading through this thread scared the hell out of me even before I bought my car. Third day of ownership I installed both new front lower ball joints. Cheers for the warning.
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Old 09-22-10, 01:05 AM   #87
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What else besides the Ball Joints do I need to change?
Trailing Arm, Upper Control Arms, Lower Control Arms, & Outer Tie Rod Set?
or just Ball Joints are fine to change alone?
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Old 10-10-10, 09:15 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeM View Post
Good thread. Thanks. When ordering parts I have noticed most people are buying the lh and rh as separate items. They are available as a set.

Part # 43340-39415 (thanks to MarkMAcGS$ for saving me bucks) it does not show up on the parts sheet as a pair. Go to sewell and do a search for this part number. Be sure to change the "search by" to part number.

Sewell also has nuts and bolts that go with the ball joints. I have not seen anybody else list these with the parts they bought. Any comments on whether or not this is a good idea would be a good add to the thread. I am going to buy them because they are cheap.
Could someone please verify if this part number is for a pair of lower ball joints for a '98 GS300 from Sewell? Thanks!
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Old 10-10-10, 10:26 PM   #89
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I was told that lower ball joints and outer tie rod ends are the only things you need to replace when doing lower ball joints. I was also told that both of these items wear out around the same time.
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Old 10-11-10, 09:47 AM   #90
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I took my tie rods and ball joints off without separating them, just twisted off the whole assembly, also did not remove any brake/disc parts only the wheel.
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