You need a pitman puller. to pull off the balljoint. Other than that, handtools are good.

 

I'm going through my old subscriptions and forgot I had this...
I read this a couple of months ago, and it reminded me I needed to change my ball joints and fast! So I lagged for awhile and finally got the boyfriend to order the ball joints and agree to replace them. Literally the day before he was going to actually change them, they snapped while I was driving home from work.

Insurance paid to fix the car, but it took about a month, and I was driving a Kia Rondo rental. fun eh?

 

hey guys,w as trying to order the parts off sewell's parts online, but they are charging $83.00 each ball joint? i saw members getting them for around $130 or so for both..do i need to call them or? thanks in advance.

 

Yes call them and tell them you're from Clublexus.

 

did my balljoints yesterday. Just got my GS bout 3 weeks ago so it was my first GS DIY. Went pretty smooth. Got em for 130 shipped from Sewell

 

Looks to be about $136 for the set.

http://www.sewellpartsonline.com/par...l.asp?id=90178

 

hey CK thanks man, i went on their other site? and it said it was $83.35 each one, so i wasnt sure where other people were looking, Thanks !

 

How do you know that the clunking and clanking is not because of a dead shock?


btw, anyone knows the bolt size for the lower ball joints (the two bolts)? I need it for a custom RCA block. PM me.

 

Granted, the last posts were two+ years ago. Maybe my recent experience can help others in considering a medium to high mileage used GS purchase.

I'm brand new to CL and just yesterday replaced both lower ball joints as well as struts and strut rod bushings at 92K for my 2000 GS 300. Curious and having never experienced a suspension failure like this in other high mileage cars I've owned, I went on-line to find that ball joints do appear to be a GS weakness.

Bought it with 62K miles and I've owned the car for 32 months and just had my 90K major tune-up a month ago at an independent shop. After I mentioned some front end creaking, they found a minor loose engine cover. The creaking continued.

1,000 miles later, a sudden a dramatic worsening in steering response in the last two weeks - especially the last few days. I chose to take it straight to the dealer this time. After the thorough repair, it's a night and day improvement - I actually enjoy driving the car again. When the ball joints go, they go fast.

I had also asked the dealer to also check an annoying soft rattle coming from the rear suspension area. They found some loose sub-frame bolts (sure glad I asked them to check - the 90K independent shop didn't cure the same problem BTW). They asked if the car had been in a collision - not on my watch, I replied. I asked what their dealer service records showed - the original owner had purchased the car at this dealer and had all work done there as well. They said they would not have sold me the car if it was in a collision. With no charge for the sub-frame bolt tightening, no need to escalate this or run a CarFax report I guess. Hope others don't have the same sub-frame issue.

Curious, are there any other looming gotcha's one should look out for?

 

When I'm turning I get a clicking and some other noise. But its not a "clunk".
Does this mean I'm due for them soon?

 

I believe clicking is axles.

 

i just got my new balljoints and outer tie rods..

i have a question should i be able to move the new ball joints around easily? one of them seems easy to move and the other one is so stiff i can barley move it. same thing with the outer tie rods, why is one stiff then the other i don't get it..

i'm talking about moving them by hand right out of the box.. not installed

 

I just replaced upper control arm, lower balljoints, and outer tie rod ends.

Just a heads up purhased lower balljoints from Advance Auto they are Beck/Arnley. Had to order but only paid $50.00/ea with tax and everything.

 

new balljoint/tie rods shouldnt move easily... mine were pretty hard to move around.


my old ones on the other hand moved easily.


edit: woot post 2000.

 

changed mine at like 140k, got a 98GS4.

I only changed my left one because it was making really bad noise....I'm wondering if my right one is due for a change. I didn't change my tie rods though...necessary to change them together?