Help can't get the rotors off
#1
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Help can't get the rotors off
I am trying to install crosse drilled rotors for my gs430 after removing the caliper i tried hitting with a hammer but no luck getting them off. Than i noticed a plastic nut inside the rotor that seems to be holding the rotors in place. On top of the not there is a metel washer and a pin. How do I remove that. Do I need a special tool.
#3
Lexus Champion
I went through the same exact problem when I put on my front and rear rotors. You dont need to mess with the middle part. I didnt know that and rented an axle nut puller from Autozone and after I got it off it still wouldnt come off. You need to keep banging and make sure you dont have the emergency brake on. Keep banging, trust me. gl In the picture I tried to highlight where the actual problem is. The rotors sits on the circular piece that sticks out. You cant actualy tell from this picture that they are two separate pieces because rust has sealed the gap that is there. Keep banging, if you have to bang on the rotor surface so it will cause more vibration to loosen the rust.
#4
Northern California Regional Officer
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Originally Posted by LStyle
I am trying to install crosse drilled rotors for my gs430 after removing the caliper i tried hitting with a hammer but no luck getting them off. Than i noticed a plastic nut inside the rotor that seems to be holding the rotors in place. On top of the not there is a metel washer and a pin. How do I remove that. Do I need a special tool.
This has been discussed several times before. No need to hammer or anything like that. Please do a search and your problem will be answered. Try searching key words like "rotor removal".
Also spray some wd40 or rust penetrant on the outside of that rusted hub, right at the neck on the outside where Lexbox drew the arrows.. Do not do the inside where the cotter pin and bolt are. That's not neccessary.
Second, you will see in Lexbox third photo, two holes roughly 1/4 inch in size, on opposite sides from each other. Look in the holes, they are threaded. What you need to do is buy two metric bolts that fit that thread and insert them. They can be from roughly 1/2 to 1 & 1/2 inches in length, it really doesn't matter.
Once you do that , tighten both sides at the same time. No need to hammer or anything, just keep tightening those two as hard as possible.
When you hear a snap as if something cracked, don't assume you broke something. That just means the rotor has come loose and you can pull it off with your hands.
This is all I remember, so do a search to find out what thread size you need. All I can remember is that it is a metric thread.
Good Luck
Last edited by RMMGS4; 05-26-06 at 05:35 PM.
#5
Racer
7mm with a 1.00 threading, 2", whatever head pleases you.
#7
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Thank you very much for all your help. You guys are the best. I did search prior to post but i couldn't get a clear answer, which is why I posted. Once again thanks, and have a great Memorial Day weekend!
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#8
I guess you have to get used to rust like that back east. Here in California we don't see stuff like that. I also wanted to add..make sure your parking brake assembly is turned in as far as possible to elimante drag when the drum/hub is ready to come off.
I recently changed my rotors all around at 110,000 miles. Check your parking brake hardware. I am sure it is as rusted as the rest of the assembly I see on the photo. I also changed the brake shoes inside the hub for the parking brake. They were more expensive than the brake pads...I bought them from Carson Toyota, and they cost $33.00 a SHOE, or 132 bucks for all 4. I should not have to change these again for a long time if ever.
Good luck on the rotors.
I recently changed my rotors all around at 110,000 miles. Check your parking brake hardware. I am sure it is as rusted as the rest of the assembly I see on the photo. I also changed the brake shoes inside the hub for the parking brake. They were more expensive than the brake pads...I bought them from Carson Toyota, and they cost $33.00 a SHOE, or 132 bucks for all 4. I should not have to change these again for a long time if ever.
Good luck on the rotors.
Last edited by gserep1; 05-27-06 at 02:55 PM.
#9
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Well my crossed drilled rotors are on. The car break great. While doing my breaks I also fixed my noissy sway bars by adding some grease to the bushings. Car drives great. Thanks again for the help.
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