I was trying to bleed my brakes on my 99 GS300, but it wouoldn't let me. When I opened up the valve on the calipers, the padel still wouldn't drop to the floor. Come to find out that the ABS system somehow works as a lil gate and I'd need some OBD2 program to open it up with or else I won't be able to bleed it. (that's why my friend who works at toyota said) Is there any way to get around that? I need help quick, cuz' my brakes sux really bad right now......

 

I've been looking into this for my 97 SC400. I've found a power bleeder from Motive products that I've got on the way now. I've been told that the systems that have the traction control systems need to have the vehicle switch in the on position to allow the traction control system to function. It works on my 97 anyway. If you haven't tried searching in the wheels and tires section and the maintenance section you may want to try there for more information.

Let me know how what you find out. I just bought a 01 GS430 with the traction control system. It will be good to know.

 

Is that the problem? because of my traction control??? I read some of the forums here, seems like nobody run into the problem that I have? I did forget to mention one thing.... my car was off when I tried bleeding it, after reading everyone's posts, should I of turned the car on first for me to bleed it?

 

Are you doing this by yourself or is someone stepping on the pedal as you control the valve?

 

The car must be on.

 

ROAR! the one and only has growled!

 

yeah..... start the car. the car hsa to be running for you to bleed the brakes

 

okay, here's the deal. I turned the car on (car's running, traction control button is 'on') and started bleeding the brakes. I can hear the ABS/brake mastercylinder was pumping. Then within 30 seconds of my brother pumping the padel, the traction control, ABS, and brake lights all came on with a beeping noise coming from the dash. (the beeping noise is same as when the traction control is kicking in while you're driving) The noise goes away after 10 seconds. We continued pumping the brakes another 30 seconds or so, the beeping comes back on few more times, then I got scared and stopped.

I put the wheel back on and lowered back the car, jumped into the car and went for a test drive, just to make sure I didn't put anymore air into the system. As soon as I hopped into the car, the brakes felt way better.

Was I doing it right? Were the traction control/ABS supposed to come on like that? Should I just continue bleeding it and let the car beep everytime we pump the brakes?

I forgot to mention, I guess I never knew it, if I leave the key on 'on' (doesn't matter if the car is started or not) all I have to do is to start pumping the brakes and the same thing would happen. (traction control, ABS, and brake lights *on the dash* would all come on and make that beeping noise) Is this normal or do I need to bring the car in for service?

 

The traction control beeping and abs lights came on for me when I had a loss of Brake fluid in the master cylinder. It is a warning that your brakes are not right.


Those lights and beeping should not nromallly come on, if htey are still coming on then someting is not right.

The rear brakes you do not need to "pump" if you press the pedal the fluid will keep coming out of it whith just the pedal depressed.

 

I guess something is wrong with my car, cuz I can just sit there (with the car on) and just start pumping on the brakes and the ABS, Traction Control, the Brake light, and the beeping would all come on.

 

my guess is that you still have air in the system somewhere, I assume that the master cylinder is full right?

 

Is the brake fluid level at MAX? Make sure its still full otherwise you will get air into the system.

When me and my 2 buddy's did it a few months back....the fronts were pretty fast, but the rears....we had to pump for nearly 5 minutes before any brake fluid flowed out of the calipers.

And yah....all them lights lit up too....do it while the engine is running.

 

okay everyone we are talking press brake, hold open valve, close valve, release pedal.

right?

All this talk of pumping has me uncertain.

 

no, pumping as in, pressing the brakes, releasing it, pressing it, releasing it, for like 3000 times, then hold it, then release the valve. Like I said, the weird thing is that, I don't even have to release the valve, all I have to do is to sit there and pump the brakes for about 30 seconds, all the lights come on.

 

Guys, the brake system in the GS is not your typical, conventional mastercylinder/brake booster type. I assure you the beeping and lights in the dash are normal when you've been pumping the brake pedal. The lights and beeping just means that the pressure in the accumulator has dropped significantly. Notice it stops beeping and the lights go away after you've stopped pumping the brakes. Also, after you've stopped pumping the brakes, do you notice a buzzing sound in the firewall in front of you. That is the system pumping the pressure back up in the accumulator. As long as the pedal feels normal and the lights and the beeping go away you're fine. So donn't let it scare you. If you guys still donn't believe me. Then get into a GS that you know has nothing wrong with the brakes and try it. Pump the brakes as fast as you can to get the pressure down. You'll get that beeping and lights to come on.

Will