When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
IS there any write ups on the proper way to do the trans fluid on this car? I did it on my ES via the transcooler lines, but I am not sure if the IS3 has transcooler lines? i would prefer to do it all in one shot if possible, not the drain the pain and fill method that people often do.
**I know that these are "sealed" transmission and don't need changing. Please don't lecture me about that, if that's your view thats fine, but I completely disagree.
Your only option is a drain and fill. No other option some say a dealer with the rite machine but I've yet to actual seen one in person to be done with a machine. So it drain and fill or not do it at all.
Okay so I did this at 60K miles. Drain and fills are the only way and depending on the mileage you may want to replace the transmission filter too. You can drain about 4 quarts at a time.
What I did first was drop the pan to replace the filter then pumped in new fluid. Drove around for about a week and did another drain and fill, and then one more drain and fill after another week. It should be close to 100% fluid replacement after the third drain and fill.
It’s really important to get the fluid level right. Best way is to measure how much you drain out, and replace that exactly. Alternatively, you’ll have to use tech stream to monitor the transmission fluid temp and level the fluid.
Toyota WS after 60K miles, it was no longer red. Went through about 12 quarts of Toyota WS after doing 3 drain and fills.
Okay so I did this at 60K miles. Drain and fills are the only way and depending on the mileage you may want to replace the transmission filter too. You can drain about 4 quarts at a time.
What I did first was drop the pan to replace the filter then pumped in new fluid. Drove around for about a week and did another drain and fill, and then one more drain and fill after another week. It should be close to 100% fluid replacement after the third drain and fill.
It’s really important to get the fluid level right. Best way is to measure how much you drain out, and replace that exactly. Alternatively, you’ll have to use tech stream to monitor the transmission fluid temp and level the fluid.
Toyota WS after 60K miles, it was no longer red. Went through about 12 quarts of Toyota WS after doing 3 drain and fills.
Thank you! I'll prob use techstream. If this trans is anything like one in es, it didn't like being over / under filled at all
Thank you! I'll prob use techstream. If this trans is anything like one in es, it didn't like being over / under filled at all
Not a problem and yeah sounds the same. The AA81E transmission doesn't like the level being off at all. Forgot to add, I used techstream to reset the memory on the TCU/ECT after I completed all 3 drain and fills. There is a road test procedure that is done after the reset that allows the transmission to re-learn the shift parameters with new fluid. Here's the service manual instructions, the reset memory procedure is on the bottom of the page: ECM Learning Procedure
Okay so I did this at 60K miles. Drain and fills are the only way and depending on the mileage you may want to replace the transmission filter too. You can drain about 4 quarts at a time.
What I did first was drop the pan to replace the filter then pumped in new fluid. Drove around for about a week and did another drain and fill, and then one more drain and fill after another week. It should be close to 100% fluid replacement after the third drain and fill.
It’s really important to get the fluid level right. Best way is to measure how much you drain out, and replace that exactly. Alternatively, you’ll have to use tech stream to monitor the transmission fluid temp and level the fluid.
Toyota WS after 60K miles, it was no longer red.
Went through about 12 quarts of Toyota WS after doing 3 drain and fills.
Good feedback. Un-related question: Have you had those plastic car ramps for long? Do you trust them? I've flirted with the idea of getting some, but the few loud voices in the amazon review section that swear plastic ramps can't be trusted put me on the fence.
^^ I have similar reviews and a few years ago, I decided to bite the bullet and bought a hydraulic scissor lift in my garage and the best 2k I ever spent!!
Good feedback. Un-related question: Have you had those plastic car ramps for long? Do you trust them? I've flirted with the idea of getting some, but the few loud voices in the amazon review section that swear plastic ramps can't be trusted put me on the fence.
I have the same set I believe and they hold my expedition just fine
Good feedback. Un-related question: Have you had those plastic car ramps for long? Do you trust them? I've flirted with the idea of getting some, but the few loud voices in the amazon review section that swear plastic ramps can't be trusted put me on the fence.
Bought a pair of Rhino ramps more than 20 years ago, never had a problem with them. Recently switched to RaceRamps which are a solid foam blocks, but only switched because 2 cars have a low profile that can’t get up the Rhino’s. Still have the Rhino’s, they’re a good ramp.
Not a problem and yeah sounds the same. The AA81E transmission doesn't like the level being off at all. Forgot to add, I used techstream to reset the memory on the TCU/ECT after I completed all 3 drain and fills. There is a road test procedure that is done after the reset that allows the transmission to re-learn the shift parameters with new fluid. Here's the service manual instructions, the reset memory procedure is on the bottom of the page: ECM Learning Procedure
You fit under there? Had enough room for everything? Looks tight
Good feedback. Un-related question: Have you had those plastic car ramps for long? Do you trust them? I've flirted with the idea of getting some, but the few loud voices in the amazon review section that swear plastic ramps can't be trusted put me on the fence.
Thanks! Yeah, I’ve had them for about two years now and they hold fine. They are pretty solid and I have no worries being under the car.
I rarely use them now though. A floor jack and jack stands seemed safer and allows for a lot more room to work under. The ramps give just enough clearance, but I couldn’t use a creeper with them.
Originally Posted by NickCaesar
You fit under there? Had enough room for everything? Looks tight
Haha, just barely, helps that I’m on the thin side but absolutely was a tight fit and had to lay on cardboard. If I were doing it over again, I probably would have it up on jack stands instead.
Thanks! Yeah, I’ve had them for about two years now and they hold fine. They are pretty solid and I have no worries being under the car.
I rarely use them now though. A floor jack and jack stands seemed safer and allows for a lot more room to work under. The ramps give just enough clearance, but I couldn’t use a creeper with them.
Haha, just barely, helps that I’m on the thin side but absolutely was a tight fit and had to lay on cardboard. If I were doing it over again, I probably would have it up on jack stands instead.
When doing this with tech stream for multi drain and fills - what is the proper temp for the trans to be at, and is there any certain procedure to do before you check if it filled properly (for example cycle it through gears or anything like that)
When doing this with tech stream for multi drain and fills - what is the proper temp for the trans to be at, and is there any certain procedure to do before you check if it filled properly (for example cycle it through gears or anything like that)
For the 8 speed AA81E transmission in the 3IS IS350 RWD, it should be between 95 and 106F. Here is the procedure from the service manual: AA81E Automatic Transmission Fluid Adjustment
For the 8 speed AA81E transmission in the 3IS IS350 RWD, it should be between 95 and 106F. Here is the procedure from the service manual: AA81E Automatic Transmission Fluid Adjustment
Wow. I thought the IS F's gearbox had a tight temperature window. 11 degrees? That's ridiculous. The IS F and GS F use the exact same procedure, but the temperature ranges for both a different. IS F is 95F to 108F, GS F is 113F to 133F. I actually had to put the transmission in gear with the brakes on when I serviced the GS F because even after 20 minutes of idling, I couldn't get it warm enough to pull the level plug. Once I got the torque converter working, the temp came up pretty quickly. It was 38F outside at the time. This isn't necessary in the summer at all. It gets hot fast, and the IS F needs to sit for at least 8 hours to cool off enough to set the level. As tight as your window is, you'd better be completely ready to jump under the car and get the plug pulled fast. It won't stay cool enough for very long if it's anything like the F cars.
Also - to get maximum drain, raise the front of the car as high as possible while leaving the rear on the ground. I got a little over 6 quarts out of the IS F with this approach on my last swap. If you drop the pan after draining while level, you get almost exactly 5.5 quarts. The GS F was more stingy, not sure why, but still got enough out to not be worried about anything. I didn't really need to change the fluid, but it was definitely low (started making a whining sound like an old hydraulic power steering pump), and I figured it never hurts to pull some out if I'm going to add some anyway.
Wow. I thought the IS F's gearbox had a tight temperature window. 11 degrees? That's ridiculous. The IS F and GS F use the exact same procedure, but the temperature ranges for both a different. IS F is 95F to 108F, GS F is 113F to 133F. I actually had to put the transmission in gear with the brakes on when I serviced the GS F because even after 20 minutes of idling, I couldn't get it warm enough to pull the level plug. Once I got the torque converter working, the temp came up pretty quickly. It was 38F outside at the time. This isn't necessary in the summer at all. It gets hot fast, and the IS F needs to sit for at least 8 hours to cool off enough to set the level. As tight as your window is, you'd better be completely ready to jump under the car and get the plug pulled fast. It won't stay cool enough for very long if it's anything like the F cars.
This was exactly my experience. I didn’t have the process down my first couple attempts at leveling the fluid and when I failed to get it level within the 10 minutes or so it takes to get from 95 to 106F (ambient was about 75F), I had to wait until the next morning for the fluid to cool down enough to try again.
01-07-22, 08:24 AM
Trans Fluid
