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Okay so I did this at 60K miles. Drain and fills are the only way and depending on the mileage you may want to replace the transmission filter too. You can drain about 4 quarts at a time.
What I did first was drop the pan to replace the filter then pumped in new fluid. Drove around for about a week and did another drain and fill, and then one more drain and fill after another week. It should be close to 100% fluid replacement after the third drain and fill.
It’s really important to get the fluid level right. Best way is to measure how much you drain out, and replace that exactly. Alternatively, you’ll have to use tech stream to monitor the transmission fluid temp and level the fluid.
Toyota WS after 60K miles, it was no longer red. Went through about 12 quarts of Toyota WS after doing 3 drain and fills.
Hi, noticed that you used rhino ramps for the front. Was the rear jacked up? Asking coz I always thought to do this, the car needed to be level. I have same ramps, in your opinion is it high enough to use a sleeper to do the change?
Originally Posted by robsta8886
Okay so I did this at 60K miles. Drain and fills are the only way and depending on the mileage you may want to replace the transmission filter too. You can drain about 4 quarts at a time.
What I did first was drop the pan to replace the filter then pumped in new fluid. Drove around for about a week and did another drain and fill, and then one more drain and fill after another week. It should be close to 100% fluid replacement after the third drain and fill.
It’s really important to get the fluid level right. Best way is to measure how much you drain out, and replace that exactly. Alternatively, you’ll have to use tech stream to monitor the transmission fluid temp and level the fluid.
Toyota WS after 60K miles, it was no longer red.
Went through about 12 quarts of Toyota WS after doing 3 drain and fills.
Not a problem and yeah sounds the same. The AA81E transmission doesn't like the level being off at all. Forgot to add, I used techstream to reset the memory on the TCU/ECT after I completed all 3 drain and fills. There is a road test procedure that is done after the reset that allows the transmission to re-learn the shift parameters with new fluid. Here's the service manual instructions, the reset memory procedure is on the bottom of the page: ECM Learning Procedure
Your link doesn't say anything about needing this after a drain and fill.
It’s really important to get the fluid level right. Best way is to measure how much you drain out, and replace that exactly. Alternatively, you’ll have to use tech stream to monitor the transmission fluid temp and level the fluid.
I tried to measure out exactly what I drained, and ended up failing. First off, there are residual amounts of fluid in both your drain container as well as your filling container to contend with. The methods for figuring these out didn't seem very scientific to me.
Second, if we're still being scientific, the volume of drained fluid and volume of new fluid need to be measured at the same temp. This quickly turns into a multi-day job if you don't realize this and turn your vehicle on before doing the actual drain. Turning the vehicle on of course helps drain the fluid quicker, and more of it.
I also unfortunately expelled some of the new fluid from my Motive filler due to being distracted and pressurizing it without the ball valve closed. Oops.
At the end of the day, I got the most peace of mind by simply jumping the two terminals to get into Temperature Detection Mode.
Now I have to check it again when it warms up in the Spring... I also will probably do a second drain and fill (of 6 quarts).
You mentioned " it was no longer red" - how dark/black was it at 60k miles?
The dealer changed mine at the 70k kms (3 drain and fills), I never saw the old fluid - I'm keeping mine mine forever, so I erred on the side of caution
You mentioned " it was no longer red" - how dark/black was it at 60k miles?
The dealer changed mine at the 70k kms (3 drain and fills), I never saw the old fluid - I'm keeping mine mine forever, so I erred on the side of caution
Is there a specified change interval for Canadian models? There is nothing prescribed for US models to avoid an EPA tax supposedly to pay for the waste stream the used fluid creates. I've been trying to nail down what Lexus really thinks about ATF service life because the US models don't reflect the transmission engineer's opinion at all.
For the 8 speed AA81E transmission in the 3IS IS350 RWD, it should be between 95 and 106F. Here is the procedure from the service manual: AA81E Automatic Transmission Fluid Adjustment
This is why people have to be careful on these threads.
The link you provided is for the GS, and the procedure there is subtly (but crucially) different.
It describes removing the terminal jump to activate Engine Idle Speed Control, or else risking an inaccurate ATF level reading. In the IS service manual, when not using Techstream, this Engine Idle Speed Control appears to activate automatically and the extra step of removing the jumper is not needed. However, if you use Techstream, the procedure is different yet again.
Oddly enough, the IS auto trans section I have says its for 2021, and says nothing about jumping the actual terminals. Perhaps this is not required anymore and only the bit about shifting between D and N is all that is needed. For older molders, jumping Terminals 13 and 4 is definitely required if not using Techstream.
Someone else please chime in if I am reading that incorrectly.
This is why people have to be careful on these threads.
The link you provided is for the GS, and the procedure there is subtly (but crucially) different.
It describes removing the terminal jump to activate Engine Idle Speed Control, or else risking an inaccurate ATF level reading. In the IS service manual, when not using Techstream, this Engine Idle Speed Control appears to activate automatically and the extra step of removing the jumper is not needed. However, if you use Techstream, the procedure is different yet again.
Oddly enough, the IS auto trans section I have says its for 2021, and says nothing about jumping the actual terminals. Perhaps this is not required anymore and only the bit about shifting between D and N is all that is needed. For older molders, jumping Terminals 13 and 4 is definitely required if not using Techstream.
Someone else please chime in if I am reading that incorrectly.
TIS shows no need to jump the terminals for the 2021 MY. It also says you need to work the shifter N to D rapidly for 12 seconds (or more), where the 2020 and earlier require pins 4 & 13 to be jumpered before working the shifter for only 6 seconds (or more) then removing the jumper to engage idle control. So, the procedure is different depending on the model year.
TIS shows no need to jump the terminals for the 2021 MY. It also says you need to work the shifter N to D rapidly for 12 seconds (or more), where the 2020 and earlier require pins 4 & 13 to be jumpered before working the shifter for only 6 seconds (or more) then removing the jumper to engage idle control. So, the procedure is different depending on the model year.
Thought so.
So folks should be careful following that link posted for GS models... Or just don't follow it and get the correct instructions.
So folks should be careful following that link posted for GS models... Or just don't follow it and get the correct instructions.
Bolded for emphasis - There are a number of models with AA80/AA81 transmissions. Each has its own procedure and you really MUST get the correct one or you will not get the final result you are expecting.
Sorry to ressurect an old thread, but for the 6 speed AWD, what is the proper temp to check at? And are you supposed to keep it in each gear on the selector for a certain amount of seconds?
Sorry to ressurect an old thread, but for the 6 speed AWD, what is the proper temp to check at? And are you supposed to keep it in each gear on the selector for a certain amount of seconds?
What's the exact transmission?
I'd just search this thread on how to use the built-in temperature detection for your exact MY and transmission. As has been noted here, there is not one catch-all method.
I'd just search this thread on how to use the built-in temperature detection for your exact MY and transmission. As has been noted here, there is not one catch-all method.
No idea 2016 is300 AWD. Ill probably just get the service manual because so far from my search i havent be able to find the proper procedure.