Adding negative camber?
#1
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Adding negative camber?
So wanting to minimize shoulder wear on my tires - it seems the only two ways to really introduce any negative camber is either 1) lowering springs/coilovers or 2) spc rear camber arms, and FIGS upper control arms for the front? I guess theres also megan racing in the space....
I know rechecking my alignment specs is on my list to go so, but thinking in the future as well
I know rechecking my alignment specs is on my list to go so, but thinking in the future as well
#2
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
Camber is not adjustable from the factory. You need something aftermarket to change camber. Lowering isn't a good solution, all it does is put you on a different point in the camber curve, but it doesn't solve the real problem and you really want your camber curve to be optimized for the setup you are running. Believe it or not, there really is a "proper" ride height for the suspension geometry from the factory. Changing ride height arbitrarily may have unintended consequences like creating a roll couple so long that no spring made can overcome it's force. Or you can move the roll center below ground level, or...
Anyway, you need to be very deliberate with ride height changes, and ideally you'd already have measured and modeled the chassis so you can make informed choices, not just throw darts into the dark and hope for something better.
Anyway, you need to be very deliberate with ride height changes, and ideally you'd already have measured and modeled the chassis so you can make informed choices, not just throw darts into the dark and hope for something better.
#3
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Camber is not adjustable from the factory. You need something aftermarket to change camber. Lowering isn't a good solution, all it does is put you on a different point in the camber curve, but it doesn't solve the real problem and you really want your camber curve to be optimized for the setup you are running. Believe it or not, there really is a "proper" ride height for the suspension geometry from the factory. Changing ride height arbitrarily may have unintended consequences like creating a roll couple so long that no spring made can overcome it's force. Or you can move the roll center below ground level, or...
Anyway, you need to be very deliberate with ride height changes, and ideally you'd already have measured and modeled the chassis so you can make informed choices, not just throw darts into the dark and hope for something better.
Anyway, you need to be very deliberate with ride height changes, and ideally you'd already have measured and modeled the chassis so you can make informed choices, not just throw darts into the dark and hope for something better.
That being said, it looks like the only way to dial anything in on the fronts is either a Megan Racing/FIGS upper control arm
#4
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iTrader: (8)
We can get you SPC camber arms for the rear. For the front, FIGS and T Demand make a set I believe.
-Josh
-Josh
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Orange County, CA
Email: info@merakiautoworks.com
Text/Call: 213 394 2886
Website: www.MerakiAutoworks.com
#5
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
Certainly. I'm not one to slam a car all nimbly bimbly - usually I never go beyond ~1" drop since it for the most part minimizes the impact - even when I had my NC Miata on Ohlin's it was still only a 1" drop.
That being said, it looks like the only way to dial anything in on the fronts is either a Megan Racing/FIGS upper control arm
That being said, it looks like the only way to dial anything in on the fronts is either a Megan Racing/FIGS upper control arm
#7
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Thread Starter
Supras didn't like even 1mm of drop. They went slower on the track at any ride height below stock. It doesn't mean guys don't lower them, but there's a mechanical performance loss when you do. That's part of why I'm not keen on it unless I know for sure it's going to work. An inch is 25mm. That's huge.
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#8
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I'm actually having outer tire wear ( the outside shoulders ) so, I think next steps will be to double check the alignment.
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designo (07-20-19)
#9
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You're probably toed-in too much. Most of the alignment guys default to toe-in on Lexus because they toe out a LOT under braking.
#10
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#11
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No, hard braking and wiggles is front end. All fixed when I went to polyurethane bushings in front.
#12
I would say that lowering the car with the intent of improving its looks is a subjective move that is absolutely fine to do for those that value it for what it is; nothing wrong with pursuing happiness! I think the only problem would be to equate the act of lowering the car with a corresponding equal improvement in performance... it will not happen. I think certain aspects of "performance" could be improved in isolation, but as its usually the case with these things (especially with suspension geometry), it usually comes at the expense of some other aspect of that system.
I wanted to say however that the GS-F could be improve very significantly for better track duty/usa. In everything that I've done, I have yet to touch "height", and probably won't... However, RR-Racing USRS & Competition 2 Piece Brake Rotors, better brake pads, better brake fluid, better rubber (R) compounds, as much of it as possible in all 4 corners, etc. These are example of improvements that if done right, are real and can dramatically change the way the car feel and what it can do where it counts.
In two weeks I'll finish another set of improvements and by the end of November I should be "done" (whatever that means) with Brakes/Suspension & Tires. At that point I was thinking about posting a thread with pictures and numbers on everything I did for that area and my impressions for those that might be interested. I'll tell you preliminary that the most shocking and unexpected improvement so far has been those RR-Racing Competition Brake 2 piece Rotors! I was not expecting at all the changes in temperature that I have been measuring at the track. I have never done a "mod" that has surprised me more on its ability to deliver on the promises that it claims.
I wanted to say however that the GS-F could be improve very significantly for better track duty/usa. In everything that I've done, I have yet to touch "height", and probably won't... However, RR-Racing USRS & Competition 2 Piece Brake Rotors, better brake pads, better brake fluid, better rubber (R) compounds, as much of it as possible in all 4 corners, etc. These are example of improvements that if done right, are real and can dramatically change the way the car feel and what it can do where it counts.
In two weeks I'll finish another set of improvements and by the end of November I should be "done" (whatever that means) with Brakes/Suspension & Tires. At that point I was thinking about posting a thread with pictures and numbers on everything I did for that area and my impressions for those that might be interested. I'll tell you preliminary that the most shocking and unexpected improvement so far has been those RR-Racing Competition Brake 2 piece Rotors! I was not expecting at all the changes in temperature that I have been measuring at the track. I have never done a "mod" that has surprised me more on its ability to deliver on the promises that it claims.
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designo (07-20-19)
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