Where to buy trunk hydrolics?
I know this is an old issue, and I've read the old threads, but they end with no solution. Has anyone recently been successful in ordering new trunk support struts in the with-spoiler variety?
Tired of holding up the trunk with my shoulder.
Tired of holding up the trunk with my shoulder.
hey buddy, you can check www.lexussc400.com they sell the stock ones. they also sell all types of stock things and aftermarket for the sc series, mainly 400. im not sure if it will have enough power to hold up a spoiler, but you could always try.
....but neither of them would allow me to special order them for pick up at a local store- they insisted on having to order them from their supplier and then shipping them.
So you can try them and see what happens. Partsamerica had the best price at the time: $20.79 for StrongArm 4058 (w/spolier). I got mine from RockAuto.com- they sell the AC Delcos, the part # is 510-129 and a pair of them cost me $43.46 including shipping.
FYI- Here are the installation instructions. I copied them from previous posts and embellished them a bit to email to the fellow that bought my old lift supports on eBay. That's right- once the lift supports for the spolier-equipped SC weaken to the point where they no longer hold up the trunk lid, they still have enough pressure to hold up a NON-spoilered trunk lid. So don't toss them- give them to a needy spoiler-less SC owner! Remember- charity begins in the garage!
AND, be sure to buy the more-powerful "spoilered" struts, no matter if you have a spoiler or not on your trunk lid! I installed a set on a friend's SC300 with no spoiler and they work GREAT- once released, your trunk will pop up unassisted. The struts are bound to last longer as well, since they have more gas in them.
===================================================================
Here are the instructions - some of it will make more sense when you actually start the process:
Try to enlist a friend to help - to hold up the trunk lid, but you can do it yourself using a sturdy pole to prop it up. Be CAREFUL- if you accidentally knock that pole loose you'll be amazed how heavy that trunk lid is! REPLACE ONE STRUT AT A TIME.
Step 1: Inside the trunk, peel off, from the top, the gray panel that separates the trunk cavity from the back seat/gas tank area. It's held down with little plastic clips. These clips will release if you give them a tug. You’ll then be able to see the gas tank and the struts attached to the trunk hinges.
Step 2: You can't just pop the old struts off because they are not yet fully extended. There’s a pair of little black plastic bumpers that clip onto the tubular arms connecting the trunk to the struts. Pull them off so you can lift the trunk to its full height.
Step 3: Using a 12mm open end wrench unscrew the ball portion of the ball and socket joint that is on the top part of the lift supports. It may be hard to loosen because it has Loc-Tite on it. Don't turn too hard on the wrench or you may round off the bolt- a propane torch or even a lighter will easily loosen it. Be careful with that flame- you are right next to the gas tank!
Step 4: Using a screwdriver, unclip the metal retainer that secures the bottom part of the lifter cylinder to the stud on the car body. If you won't be re-using your old struts, you can just jam a screwdriver in there and bend the clips away from the stud so that they release. (I had to be more careful, since I knew I would be re-using them.)
Step 5: Now you reverse step 3 for the replacement strut. Replacement struts come with a separate ball connector that you screw on with an 11mm socket wrench. Once screwed in, the socket end of your new strut will clip right onto it.
Step 6: Clip the bottom (shaft) part of your new strut onto the round stud. Make sure the more closed side of the clip faces inward- that's the part that will grab the groove on the stud. It will click when it’s fully inserted and locked in place.
Step 7: Now you repeat the process for the other side. You are doing these one at a time, right?
Step 8: Put those rubber bumpers back into place, paying attention to the little key piece that fits into the hole on the tubular trunk arm. If you used a pole to hold up the trunk lid, now's the time to remove it.
Step 9: Put the interior panel back into place with the clips. If you don't have a spoiler, pull the trunk release button and watch the lid pop up by itself. Amaze your friends!
Additional tips:
These pneumatic cylinders are under a lot of pressure, even when they're too weak to hold up the lid. Don't cut or heat them or get your finger in the way when they are compressed. Also, take care not to nick or scratch the polished metal rods on the struts.
If you're really thrifty and want to extend the service life of your lift supports, keep in mind there is a chance that your trunk currently has only one strut that is shot, but the other is in better shape. So check out how your trunk lid works after replacing only one strut and the trunk lid stays up to your satisfaction, you may wish to hold onto the extra strut until the time your other strut gives out.
So you can try them and see what happens. Partsamerica had the best price at the time: $20.79 for StrongArm 4058 (w/spolier). I got mine from RockAuto.com- they sell the AC Delcos, the part # is 510-129 and a pair of them cost me $43.46 including shipping.
FYI- Here are the installation instructions. I copied them from previous posts and embellished them a bit to email to the fellow that bought my old lift supports on eBay. That's right- once the lift supports for the spolier-equipped SC weaken to the point where they no longer hold up the trunk lid, they still have enough pressure to hold up a NON-spoilered trunk lid. So don't toss them- give them to a needy spoiler-less SC owner! Remember- charity begins in the garage!
AND, be sure to buy the more-powerful "spoilered" struts, no matter if you have a spoiler or not on your trunk lid! I installed a set on a friend's SC300 with no spoiler and they work GREAT- once released, your trunk will pop up unassisted. The struts are bound to last longer as well, since they have more gas in them.
===================================================================
Here are the instructions - some of it will make more sense when you actually start the process:
Try to enlist a friend to help - to hold up the trunk lid, but you can do it yourself using a sturdy pole to prop it up. Be CAREFUL- if you accidentally knock that pole loose you'll be amazed how heavy that trunk lid is! REPLACE ONE STRUT AT A TIME.
Step 1: Inside the trunk, peel off, from the top, the gray panel that separates the trunk cavity from the back seat/gas tank area. It's held down with little plastic clips. These clips will release if you give them a tug. You’ll then be able to see the gas tank and the struts attached to the trunk hinges.
Step 2: You can't just pop the old struts off because they are not yet fully extended. There’s a pair of little black plastic bumpers that clip onto the tubular arms connecting the trunk to the struts. Pull them off so you can lift the trunk to its full height.
Step 3: Using a 12mm open end wrench unscrew the ball portion of the ball and socket joint that is on the top part of the lift supports. It may be hard to loosen because it has Loc-Tite on it. Don't turn too hard on the wrench or you may round off the bolt- a propane torch or even a lighter will easily loosen it. Be careful with that flame- you are right next to the gas tank!
Step 4: Using a screwdriver, unclip the metal retainer that secures the bottom part of the lifter cylinder to the stud on the car body. If you won't be re-using your old struts, you can just jam a screwdriver in there and bend the clips away from the stud so that they release. (I had to be more careful, since I knew I would be re-using them.)
Step 5: Now you reverse step 3 for the replacement strut. Replacement struts come with a separate ball connector that you screw on with an 11mm socket wrench. Once screwed in, the socket end of your new strut will clip right onto it.
Step 6: Clip the bottom (shaft) part of your new strut onto the round stud. Make sure the more closed side of the clip faces inward- that's the part that will grab the groove on the stud. It will click when it’s fully inserted and locked in place.
Step 7: Now you repeat the process for the other side. You are doing these one at a time, right?
Step 8: Put those rubber bumpers back into place, paying attention to the little key piece that fits into the hole on the tubular trunk arm. If you used a pole to hold up the trunk lid, now's the time to remove it.
Step 9: Put the interior panel back into place with the clips. If you don't have a spoiler, pull the trunk release button and watch the lid pop up by itself. Amaze your friends!
Additional tips:
These pneumatic cylinders are under a lot of pressure, even when they're too weak to hold up the lid. Don't cut or heat them or get your finger in the way when they are compressed. Also, take care not to nick or scratch the polished metal rods on the struts.
If you're really thrifty and want to extend the service life of your lift supports, keep in mind there is a chance that your trunk currently has only one strut that is shot, but the other is in better shape. So check out how your trunk lid works after replacing only one strut and the trunk lid stays up to your satisfaction, you may wish to hold onto the extra strut until the time your other strut gives out.
Last edited by PERRYinLA; Mar 12, 2004 at 12:58 AM.
I have replaced my trunk supports, and might be able to help someone out. I was able to order one from autozone, but only one . Then they couldn't special order another; so I kept shopping around. It didn't matter, since only one was leaking oil. Then I found another place online, so I ordered a second one just so I had two fresh shocks. They both arived, I installed them- trunk lifts fine now. Two days later, another shock comes in the mail. I call them up to return it (since technically I didn't order it), and they want some BS 20% re-stocking fee. I told them to go F- them selves. So I have a spare brand new shock and a slightly worn, but functioning old shock. If anyone is interested in buying the new shock, I'll throw in the old one too, free!!!! But it isn't light, so the free on will bump up the shipping cost.
I'll sell the new shock for exactly what I paid for it , plus actual shipping cost or, you come to Orlando and pick it up. If anyone wants the old shock, its up for the taking too.
The new shock was sent to me w/ an invoice for 39.72. So I'll sell it for that, plus actual shipping to wherever you want it. The old one is free + shipping.
Let me know if anyone wants it. For what its worth, the new shock and the old shock held up the trunk w/spoiler just fine, but it wouldn't raise up on its own. SO if anyone's trunk w/spoiler won't support itself, and old and new shock will keep it up at least. 2 new ones' and the trunk just flies right up
Keith
keith.rivera@dep.state.fl.us
I'll sell the new shock for exactly what I paid for it , plus actual shipping cost or, you come to Orlando and pick it up. If anyone wants the old shock, its up for the taking too.
The new shock was sent to me w/ an invoice for 39.72. So I'll sell it for that, plus actual shipping to wherever you want it. The old one is free + shipping.
Let me know if anyone wants it. For what its worth, the new shock and the old shock held up the trunk w/spoiler just fine, but it wouldn't raise up on its own. SO if anyone's trunk w/spoiler won't support itself, and old and new shock will keep it up at least. 2 new ones' and the trunk just flies right up

Keith
keith.rivera@dep.state.fl.us
Got the struts today and installed them. It was pretty easy thanks to PERRYinLA's instructions. While I was in there I just couldn't help but notice how much room there is around the gas tank that is going to waste. I really want to mount two subs in that rear dash. Neer done any cutting on a car like that would require, but I know I can do it. Just got to get up the courage to put the SC400 under the knife.
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...but I can't take all the credit, since as previously mentioned, I copied them from previous postings and embellished them a bit.
And it seems you are reconsidering the potential to place a few woofers on that deck. You and I discussed this in another thread, where I mentioned "retrodrive" had put two HUGE subs on his LS's rear deck. Glad to see you now agree that, even if you can't use the huge woofers he used, it is feasible.
I am leaning towards going on a slightly different path this spring, and fiberglass up an enclosure.
No matter what you end up doing, be sure to keep us "posted"!
And it seems you are reconsidering the potential to place a few woofers on that deck. You and I discussed this in another thread, where I mentioned "retrodrive" had put two HUGE subs on his LS's rear deck. Glad to see you now agree that, even if you can't use the huge woofers he used, it is feasible.
I am leaning towards going on a slightly different path this spring, and fiberglass up an enclosure.
No matter what you end up doing, be sure to keep us "posted"!
Last edited by PERRYinLA; Apr 11, 2002 at 04:29 PM.
Oh, don't worry. I've got so much useful info from this site, I would never miss an opportunity to give something back. I'm going to take the seats back out again and do some thinkin and measuring. See if I can get a clear picture of how big the subs can be and where exactly they will have to sit, how high they will have to sit, where to make cuts, how to attach the new mounting plate. The thing I really don't know about is should I attempt to put an enclosure around the subs? I am assiming this would be preffered, but I have never constructed a sub enclosure before. How much does the shape matter? But I think an enclosure would be really tight in there, I'll probably stick with free-air.
Bringing this thread up from the past because I ordered some ebay trunk lifts and needless to say they didn't fit!! So I just ordered some new ones from rockauto thanks to this thread. But I just want to let you guys know NOT to order the ebay lifts, they are too long. Wasted a good hour of my time!
Worry not- nothing's happened to me, but as you correctly noted, this thread has been around for 5 years (and me, even longer).
Frankly, all that can be said about our cars has already been said (and oftentimes more than once, thanks to those aliterates that won't search).
So I'm a lot more selective about when and where I choose to post. Give it some time, and you'll see what I mean- some day we're gonna wonder what happened to you.
Frankly, all that can be said about our cars has already been said (and oftentimes more than once, thanks to those aliterates that won't search).
So I'm a lot more selective about when and where I choose to post. Give it some time, and you'll see what I mean- some day we're gonna wonder what happened to you.









