Hi---did a search and couldnt find anything. Would someone please list suspension torque specs Much appreciated-------------LJ.
Someone was kind enuf to send me specs. So no assistance needed anymore. Thanks

 

This diagram has everything you need for the front:



This diagram has everything for the rear:



EDIT - The Rear Upper Control Arm No. 2 ball joint end should never be loosened. It does not impact ride height or bushing life in any way. The only reason to remove that nut is if you are replacing the control arm. That nut is the only "non-reusable" part in the diagram and again, is never loosened or removed unless you are replacing the entire arm.

 

So I've got a question. It's concerning the torque spec for the nut/bolt closer to the center of the vehicle on the lower control arm. In Lobux's rear figure, it's labeled "140 (1,430,103)." If anyone has a copy of the F-Sport springs or shocks installation guide, the reassembly notes to retorque the nut to 75 ft-lbs, but if using a SST it needs to be set to 103 ft-lbs. So in Lobux's figure, is the 103 ft-lbs assuming you use the SST (basically a torque adapter)? Or is it supposed to be 103 ft-lbs without a torque adapter? I'm concerned because I currently have it at the 75 ft-lbs stated in the installation instructions, but here it says otherwise. (I'll scan a copy of the instructions when I get home later). I wouldn't mind just torquing it to 103 ft-lbs but without knowing the bolt's rating, I can't be sure 103 ft-lbs won't snap it. Anyone know for sure?

 

It's the opposite. Here's what TIS says:So with the SST it's 75 lbf, without it, it's 103 lbf. Any time you add length to a torque wrench the numbers get smaller, not bigger.

Important to note also - many of the nuts are semi-captive. TIS says (contrary to standard practice in fastener tightening) to tighten from the bolt side. Do NOT tighten the nut, it will not work correctly. It should be obvious if you try to do this wrong, but I'm stating it here just to be crystal clear.

 

Great, thanks lobux for the info!

 

This seems to be a recurring subject, so I've stickied it. Please look here first!

 

I guess what my question was that how do you reset the bushing? I see the diagram but what bushing are we talking about here?

thanks

 

Loosen all the bolts shown in red in the diagram. The FSM says bounce the car a few times on each corner, then tighten all the bolts to the specified torque. This sets the bushings at a neutral position when the car is at normal ride height and minimizes the stress on them when loaded.

I cheat a little. I put the car on four jackstands, loosen the bolts on the corner I want to reset, put a jack under the knuckle and raise it until the corner just starts to come off the jackstand. I give it a little bounce, then I tighten the bolts on the corner I'm resetting. Move to the next corner and repeat until all four are done.

When you lower a car and fail to do this, the bushings are stressed at their normal ride height, and extra stressed when the car is loaded. This softens the bushing more rapidly because it is deflecting more than it should be. It can also lead to premature bushing failure, but it won't happen quickly.

 

Thank you! Now I finally understand.

 

speed sensor is 53 INCH/lbs = 4.416666 ft/lbs

 

Good to know.

 

Lance, by any chance do you have the torque specs for the front caliper bolts and front hub bolts that hold it to the knucle. Thank you

Edit: Nevermind got them already, 51ft lbs for the hub bolts and 58ft lbs for the caliper bolts.

 

FYI rear toe link specs:

Rear toe taper stud: 70 N·m (714 kgf·cm, 52 ft·lbf)
Rear Eccentric bolt: 50 N·m (510 kgf·cm, 37 ft·lbf)

 

good to know, this will be helpful with my coilover install

 

is it standard install procedure to reset bushing? and how soon to align? im getting my h&r springs installed soon and it would be nice toknow about this beforehand so I know what the installer is supposed to do and not do.thx!