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All New Billet adjustable UCA Upper Control Arm for the ISFs

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Old Oct 18, 2021 | 08:16 AM
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Default All New Billet adjustable UCA Upper Control Arm for the ISFs

RR Racing is introducing a brand new addition to our suspension line! These 100% USA Made Billet control arms are the perfect way to complete your suspension build.
  • Adjustable camber for improvement in front end cornering traction and reduction of outer tire wear,
  • Reduced deflection for improved steering feel and precision, and
  • Optimized caster for maximum camber gain and increased steering weight and stability.
Camber is easy to adjust with two spherical rod ends. Camber can be increased for track days and reduced for street use to improve tire wear. The typical camber adjustment range is approximately -1 up to -3.5 degrees of negative camber, enough for any track application using street or race tires.

Due to the caster offset built into the CNC arms, we build in a maximum caster increase and there is no need to adjust caster. Increasing the amount of caster has several benefits, including improvement of steering effort and straight line stability, particularly at high speeds. Additionally, the more positive caster that is built into your suspension geometry, the more negative camber is gained as your wheels are turned. This allows for a reduction in the amount of static negative camber required, thereby improving inner tire wear and braking performance.

Construction of our Ultimate Upper Control Arms is second to none. Key features are:
  • Made in USA CNC 6061-T6 billet arms exhibit incredible strength and durability under the most demanding conditions.
  • High quality chrome steel spherical rod ends for adjustment.
  • 7000 series aluminum jam nuts (every bit of weight reduction counts!)
  • OEM quality fully sealed no maintenance Japanese ball joint.


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Old Oct 18, 2021 | 09:04 AM
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To adjust them, you need to remove the tire and remove the control arm itself every time right?
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Old Oct 18, 2021 | 11:11 AM
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Yes, that is correct. But it's not difficult to do. There were ways for us to make it adjustable without removing but it reduces spring clearance and raises costs up.
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Old Oct 18, 2021 | 01:25 PM
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Looking good!
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Old Nov 20, 2021 | 06:20 PM
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@RRRacing

Hey Rafi, what can I expect as fas as NVH? Would you say these are a good choice for lowered F on KW V3? Street use only. Thank you.

Last edited by Rossi; Nov 22, 2021 at 07:22 PM.
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Old Jul 24, 2022 | 10:05 PM
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Default Caster increase

Reviving an old thread. But I’m wondering how much maximum caster increase are we talking about here with the positive offset ones? My 2016 GSF after CKS coilover install and slight height drop is in the +5 caster territory. I believe it should be higher (~+8). Having issues with wandering and also strong pull to the right.

Last edited by OMGV8; Jul 25, 2022 at 05:40 AM.
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Old Jul 24, 2022 | 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by OMGV8
Reviving and old thread. But I’m wondering how much maximum caster increase are we talking about here with the positive offset ones? My 2016 GSF after CKS coilover install and slight height drop is in the +5 caster territory. I believe it should be higher (~+8). Having issues with wandering and also strong pull to the right.
I believe most of the cars with our upper control arms are getting about 9 degree caster.

Rafi
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Old Feb 7, 2024 | 10:24 AM
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Man sorry for dig in this thread this late. I m wondering do these control arms allow positive adjustment. The front wheels on my 2008 isf have some issues that the passenger side wheel is more inside than the driver side, like less than 1 centimeter difference. I took it to a shop and the person said everything is good, no broken no break no missing or loose part. All he can think of is to get control arms for the front wheels to adjust the angle. But I think negative adjustment won't help though.
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Old Feb 12, 2024 | 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by ISFLATE
Man sorry for dig in this thread this late. I m wondering do these control arms allow positive adjustment. The front wheels on my 2008 isf have some issues that the passenger side wheel is more inside than the driver side, like less than 1 centimeter difference. I took it to a shop and the person said everything is good, no broken no break no missing or loose part. All he can think of is to get control arms for the front wheels to adjust the angle. But I think negative adjustment won't help though.
How are you determining there's less than 1 centimeter difference? What are you using to conclude that?
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Old Feb 25, 2024 | 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by RRRacing
How are you determining there's less than 1 centimeter difference? What are you using to conclude that?
We measured it with a ruler and it was kinda noticeable, anyway sorry for the delayed response I actually went and got ur uca, and the shop was able to adjust that 1 centimeter difference with those uca somehow. Great product! I think I am having noticeably more road feedback, is that one of the features?
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Old Feb 26, 2024 | 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by ISFLATE
We measured it with a ruler and it was kinda noticeable, anyway sorry for the delayed response I actually went and got ur uca, and the shop was able to adjust that 1 centimeter difference with those uca somehow. Great product! I think I am having noticeably more road feedback, is that one of the features?
Yes, definitely. Thse have a little castor built in and are hard mounted with spherical ends which will transmit more feedback. Glad everything was resolved!
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Old May 18, 2025 | 11:17 AM
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Default Knocking noise

I wanted to update anyone interested in installing these control arms. Overall they are very good, but they can have a knocking noise. My noise started just a few months after install. They have been on the vehicle for a couple of years and the noise has not improved. What I have found is the ball joints have no grease at all and are running dry. This is disappointing considering the description on RR's website states: "OEM quality fully sealed no maintenance Japanese ball joint." My very original oem control arms never made noise and for the price point, $0.50 of grease should not be optional. Hard to describe them as oem quality when they do not perform even close to the same due to lack of grease and the loose boots which will likely allow water in. PLEASE do yourself a favor and pull back the "non-serviceable" boots on the ball joints and grease them really well prior to installation.
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Old May 18, 2025 | 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Speedin
I wanted to update anyone interested in installing these control arms. Overall they are very good, but they can have a knocking noise. My noise started just a few months after install. They have been on the vehicle for a couple of years and the noise has not improved. What I have found is the ball joints have no grease at all and are running dry. This is disappointing considering the description on RR's website states: "OEM quality fully sealed no maintenance Japanese ball joint." My very original oem control arms never made noise and for the price point, $0.50 of grease should not be optional. Hard to describe them as oem quality when they do not perform even close to the same due to lack of grease and the loose boots which will likely allow water in. PLEASE do yourself a favor and pull back the "non-serviceable" boots on the ball joints and grease them really well prior to installation.
please DM us a pic of your ball joint if you’ve removed it. We always buy the same part number but we found that rarely the supplier substitutes a very similar ball joint that looks essentially the same but is prone to failure. We have not had failures of the correct ball joint. Now that we are aware of the issue, we are only using the one type that we know works.

Rafi
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Old May 18, 2025 | 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by RRRacing
please DM us a pic of your ball joint if you’ve removed it. We always buy the same part number but we found that rarely the supplier substitutes a very similar ball joint that looks essentially the same but is prone to failure. We have not had failures of the correct ball joint. Now that we are aware of the issue, we are only using the one type that we know works.

Rafi
Ill Dm in a couple of weeks as thats the next chance I have to photograph the ball joints. Until then, I did apply a lot of grease in the boots and the corrosion I saw in the ball joints will likely still be there.
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