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No I don't think so. I'm at work without my manuals, but I am 99% sure that where the signal is labeled "Air Flow Signal", that is where the SC430 knock sensor wires are. Plus the color is critical. One brown and one White. Those two wires again are located in the air flow signal location on the SC. I haven't investigated the wiring location on my GS yet though. I need to get home so I can compare them both.
So I was able to clarify from the electrical service manuals of the SC430 and the GS430 that the knock sensor wiring location and color at the ECM is the same. Knock sensor Left is Black and Knock sensor Right is white. This is to a 2003, GS430, 3UZ-FE engine. This is to a 2002 SC430, 3UZ-FE engine. This is the pinout for connector E3. Pins 1 and 2 should be the Knock sensor wires.
According to the manual, E3 is located here. ECM Connector layout.
So. Coons is right! BAM. Gotta admit when I'm wrong. 😏 And that's all I got.
Update. Pin extractor set came in and after watching a specific utube video, I was able to remove the two wires safely from the plug. I swapped them in the connector and went for a drive. This time P0330 Came on instead of P0335 which indicated that it is definately a bank 1 problem.
I then told myself, what would happen if I just disconnected pins 1 & 2 since the piezoelectric cristal only generates a voltage when it is vibrating. No signal to ECM, no fault right? Nope. I disconnected both, cleared codes and went for a drive, check engine light came on within 1/4 mile. Pulled over and read the codes and both P0330 and P0335 are on. I'm learning. 😁 Really only one more test to do now. Tap in the bank one area and see if I get an A/C voltage produced. If I don't it just means either I have an open circuit, or a bad knock sensor. I wouldn't be able to isolate it down more that that without pulling the intake. Like I said earlier, I'll put up pictures etc to help everyone when I finish with the diagnostic. Thanks.
You're getting close! I'm hoping you find your wiring is intact and the sensor just finally bit the dust. Only because I feel like a brittle (or chewed) wire would be more frustrating to find then just a dead sensor lol. Good luck man!
Are you planning to replace both knock sensors at the same time? Or just the one? How about your starter? Mine is 05 w/ 120k, garaged the majority of its life, so I'm thinking 18-20 years in hot weather might be the life expectancy of these knock sensors. I've heard of others with many more miles, but it always seems to fail between 15-20 years old. How's your SC with regards to exposure to the elements (usual climate, severe weather, etc)? Is she an outside dog or inside? I'll be ordering 2 knock sensors this week but my starter feels/sounds strong so I don't plan to swap it out unnecessarily. Only other thing we need are intake manifold gaskets right? (and crossover pipe gaskets if you do change the starter, I believe)
Stopped by the Lexus dealer this morning. Quoted me $1364.00 for replacing one sensor only. They made no additional recommendations. I just have to order the parts now. Guess I'll end up doing the work myself. Not because I can't afford it. It's that I just can't trust that it will be done right.
Troubleshooting is done for the knock sensor though. I can go no further without getting under the intake for my knock sensor. I just have too many projects.🤪
And your right. There is a separate harness. I just ordered the knock sensors and harness on ebay for $25.00. I'll toss the sensors but will use the harness. For 25 dollars, I'd be foolish not to at least have it in case I do need it.
Paul
Last edited by Raven01750; Feb 13, 2023 at 02:05 PM.
Just ordered two sensors, starter, intake manifold gasket and throttle body gasket for $555.14 at Lexus Parts Outlet.
When talking to the tech at the dealership this AM, he said the reason they don't recommend changing the fuel injector O rings is because sometimes they can cause more problems because one (or more) might roll on you when you install them. But he also said that knock sensors rarely go bad and was I sure I didn't have a mouse get inside and chew up a wire. Which you won't know untill you pull the intake! Duh. 😁
I have also been dealing with the knock sensor codes and have ordered 2 oem sensors, gaskets and plan to follow the youtube videos to remove the intake manifold. I suspect my issue is with the wiring since I got two knock sensor codes simultaneously. As you know there is no good way to perform a continuity test on the knock sensor wires without removing the manifold. I have tried resetting the ecu and clearing the codes but they come back after engine warms up and I perform the 3 revs. I hope to start on this project once the weather warms up a bit but will follow this thread to see how you do. Which youtube video did you watch to depin the connectors from the ecu plug? I thought we could use a small jewelry screwdriver to do that from the videos I have seen. I don't plan removing the the pin unless I have to replace the whole wire to the ecu for some reason as a last resort.
And you would be right. The first time I unpined the contacts was very difficult. No doubt due to the fact that they had never been depinned before. The second time (after swapping wires one and two) was much easier and was a relief. I am having a bit of a crisis. I cant find find a mechanic I trust any more. They are either so busy they take short cuts, or are just not competent. My GS430 may be toast after spending thousands of dollars with a shop that is owner operator on site. I'm so frickin disappointed right now I don't know what to do except do the work myself. But I live in a 176 Unit condo complex and have no garage. It's not going to be easy, but I'll muddle through.
The video is called "How to Depin an ECU Connector" and was posted by "iWire Subaru Solutions" one year ago. That showed me the pin locking mechanism (that I was trying to remove) and how it was actually released. Good luck.
Sorry to hear about your GS430. Bad luck I guess. Fortunately, it seems very doable to remove the intake manifold. I plan to take many pictures of things I unplug to make sure I get them pluged them and routed in the correct location. Hopefully there aren't too many bad or frail connections. i will surely need the luck!
The connector you have circled is EB1 and goes to the knock sensors and goes to pins 1, 2 and 32 of the E3 connector at the ECM or ECU as some would call it.
The manual does not state the route of individual wires, but it is safe to assume the path you drew is correct.
The connector you have circled is EB1 and goes to the knock sensors and goes to pins 1, 2 and 32 of the E3 connector at the ECM or ECU as some would call it.
The manual does not state the route of individual wires, but it is safe to assume the path you drew is correct.
I'm hoping you find your wiring is intact and the sensor just finally bit the dust. Only because I feel like a brittle (or chewed) wire would be more frustrating to find then just a dead sensor lol. Good luck man!
I'll be ordering 2 knock sensors this week but my starter feels/sounds strong so I don't plan to swap it out unnecessarily. Only other thing we need are intake manifold gaskets right? (and crossover pipe gaskets if you do change the starter, I believe)
