Help Glovebox area
I feel your pain. Anyway, I'm glad that you're finally got to the bottom of it. Good luck.
By the way, the bad odor that you had, I don't think it's related to the Evap box. Mine still has the odor if I don't use the AC regularly.
By the way, the bad odor that you had, I don't think it's related to the Evap box. Mine still has the odor if I don't use the AC regularly.
Sorry for your trials and tribulations (and $ spent), but I'm glad you were able to get to the bottom of your electrical and HVAC problems. This thread will be valuable information in the future for anyone experiencing similar issues with their SC's. Generally (not with SC's particularly), I've heard of plugged drain tubes, mildew issues, sticking doors, bad fans, leaking heat-exchange coils, bad TXV's (expansion valves) in evap boxes, but this is the first I've heard of the box itself cracking/leaking. Good to know to keep an eye out for this in our SC's!
Once sanitized, you can prevent future bacterial/fungus growth by only using the recirc mode when necessary and always switching to fresh before parking the vehicle. Other tricks include switching to fresh when getting within 5 minutes of your destination and after running the AC, even switching the system to medium heat before shutting off the vehicle. All this in an effort to prevent moisture from sitting in the box overnight, or for days, especially in warm humid climates that are conducive to microbial growth.
The bad news in California is they don't allow residential purchasing of ozone generators. Decent ones are available on Amazon for about $100, but they won't ship to my state! Your state may differ!
My HVAC system smelled bad when I bought my used SC. It was ten years old at the time and the previous owner must have never aired-out the system by running it in the "fresh air" mode (only ran it in the recirc mode). Once you get the mildew smell there are only two economical ways to get rid of it completely. One, you can sanitize the HVAC box with chemicals designed for this; or, two, you can have the system sanitized with ozone. You can find procedures for both on YouTube.
Once sanitized, you can prevent future bacterial/fungus growth by only using the recirc mode when necessary and always switching to fresh before parking the vehicle. Other tricks include switching to fresh when getting within 5 minutes of your destination and after running the AC, even switching the system to medium heat before shutting off the vehicle. All this in an effort to prevent moisture from sitting in the box overnight, or for days, especially in warm humid climates that are conducive to microbial growth.
The bad news in California is they don't allow residential purchasing of ozone generators. Decent ones are available on Amazon for about $100, but they won't ship to my state! Your state may differ!
Once sanitized, you can prevent future bacterial/fungus growth by only using the recirc mode when necessary and always switching to fresh before parking the vehicle. Other tricks include switching to fresh when getting within 5 minutes of your destination and after running the AC, even switching the system to medium heat before shutting off the vehicle. All this in an effort to prevent moisture from sitting in the box overnight, or for days, especially in warm humid climates that are conducive to microbial growth.
The bad news in California is they don't allow residential purchasing of ozone generators. Decent ones are available on Amazon for about $100, but they won't ship to my state! Your state may differ!
I remember my dad teaching the little HVAC tricks to help prevent mold. He would turn off the compressor about a mile from the house and leave it on fresh air.
i usually just spray some Lysol in the box when I change the cabin air filter and into the fresh air intake at the bottom of the windshield...never had a smell issue.
I change my cabin air filter every 10k Miles because they only cost $5-$10 dollars...always get the charcoal element filters.
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