Ecu or transmission
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Ecu or transmission
2006 SC430 - Brakes grab at 5mph when slowing down. Shifting issues at 20mph. Maintenance Required light is on. Brake light indicator when on...then off a couple times. I took it in to the toyota dealer (they're closer than Lexus) and they ran a diagnostics on it. Told me that I need a new engine computer ($2000 total) and if that doesn't work, I need a transmission (another $5000).
Has anyone had any luck using those places that repair the ECU? I was thinking about pulling it out and sending if off for repair. Am I a fool for thinking I can do this on my own?? I always feel like I'm getting ripped off with the dealer.
Also, where is the ECU located?? Is it on the passenger side dash?? The guy at the toyota place had no idea where it is.
Thank you in advance.
Has anyone had any luck using those places that repair the ECU? I was thinking about pulling it out and sending if off for repair. Am I a fool for thinking I can do this on my own?? I always feel like I'm getting ripped off with the dealer.
Also, where is the ECU located?? Is it on the passenger side dash?? The guy at the toyota place had no idea where it is.
Thank you in advance.
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Giddyup08 (06-04-18)
#3
Pole Position
Since the ECU repair costs less than 10% of a new one, I would take gamble and have it repaired.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lexus-ECU-R...MAAOSw63FaDxnN
It will probably take you ten minutes to get it out and 10 days for you to send it out/get it repaired/put it back in.
If you can wait that long not driving your car then I would do it.
Keep in mind that most of the repair places on ebay have less than a 95% ebay satisfaction rate, so it obviously doesn't work for everyone.
I have had Tanin do some dashboard work for me, and I was happy. They are NOT the people I linked to on EBay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lexus-ECU-R...MAAOSw63FaDxnN
It will probably take you ten minutes to get it out and 10 days for you to send it out/get it repaired/put it back in.
If you can wait that long not driving your car then I would do it.
Keep in mind that most of the repair places on ebay have less than a 95% ebay satisfaction rate, so it obviously doesn't work for everyone.
I have had Tanin do some dashboard work for me, and I was happy. They are NOT the people I linked to on EBay
#4
If you had it checked an the mechanic can't tell you where it is you need another opinion. The only way an ECM might be at fault is if it has a code for an internal failure. Rare but does happen. And the trans and ECM going bad at the same time???
And yes a remanufacture ECM would be fine. You can even get one with all the data reinstalled so when it arrives it already knows the VIN number and option, mileage etc
Do a google search. Several good computer company online.
But less separate your concerns. Brakes grabbing at 5 mph sounds more like a wheel speed sensor. If one is losing a signal or a toner ring tooth is off when you slow down the ABS module will assume a wheel has stop spinning at the same speed as others and apply the ABS. That may be the grabbing feeling you are talking about. A simple test for a tech who knows what to do. With a scan installed and a slow test drive, you can see the wheel speeds. If one drop out they that's the one that needs repair.
Trans not shifting at 20 mph but all other shifts are fine? Fluid clean? Full? transcodes? speed sensors ok? replacement of a trans comes after some detailed testing.
This is what I do every day for almost 40 years and I hate it when I see a post like this. Find someone else to really test your car. IMO
And yes a remanufacture ECM would be fine. You can even get one with all the data reinstalled so when it arrives it already knows the VIN number and option, mileage etc
Do a google search. Several good computer company online.
But less separate your concerns. Brakes grabbing at 5 mph sounds more like a wheel speed sensor. If one is losing a signal or a toner ring tooth is off when you slow down the ABS module will assume a wheel has stop spinning at the same speed as others and apply the ABS. That may be the grabbing feeling you are talking about. A simple test for a tech who knows what to do. With a scan installed and a slow test drive, you can see the wheel speeds. If one drop out they that's the one that needs repair.
Trans not shifting at 20 mph but all other shifts are fine? Fluid clean? Full? transcodes? speed sensors ok? replacement of a trans comes after some detailed testing.
This is what I do every day for almost 40 years and I hate it when I see a post like this. Find someone else to really test your car. IMO
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Jabberwock (06-04-18)
#5
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Thank you, Goldwinger! I need to find someone who knows what they're doing. I was shocked when my "Service Advisor" at the dealer could not tell me where the ECM was located.
If I removed the ABS fuses and took it for a quick test drive to see if my brakes would grab, would that be an indicator of the bad wheel sensor??
Thank you!
If I removed the ABS fuses and took it for a quick test drive to see if my brakes would grab, would that be an indicator of the bad wheel sensor??
Thank you!
#6
Thank you, Goldwinger! I need to find someone who knows what they're doing. I was shocked when my "Service Advisor" at the dealer could not tell me where the ECM was located.
If I removed the ABS fuses and took it for a quick test drive to see if my brakes would grab, would that be an indicator of the bad wheel sensor??
Thank you!
If I removed the ABS fuses and took it for a quick test drive to see if my brakes would grab, would that be an indicator of the bad wheel sensor??
Thank you!
#7
Lexus Test Driver
Did they give you the codes?
if not, call them and ask them to provide you with the codes...I am sure they charged you money to run the diagnostics.
When you say shifting problems, please describe what you are referring too.
how many miles?
have you ever had the transmission fluid changed?
did you recently have front end work done or any work done right before the problem with the brakes?
if not, call them and ask them to provide you with the codes...I am sure they charged you money to run the diagnostics.
When you say shifting problems, please describe what you are referring too.
how many miles?
have you ever had the transmission fluid changed?
did you recently have front end work done or any work done right before the problem with the brakes?
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#8
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Bgw70, I have 79,600 miles. I bought it with 60,000 miles on it. I have not had the transmission fluid changed. It started when I coming to a stop, the brakes grab at 5mph. Shifting is off when I go about 40mph. It just doesn't shift the same. Before that, I had a bad tire with a leak - tire pressure light would come on. I bought a set a tires.
When I got it back from the dealer, the "grabbing" of the brakes was not as harsh but then it returned after a day. Yesterday, the VSC, VSC off, check engines light, Maint REQD light came on. Today, those disappeared leaving just the MAINT REQD light on. I took it to the parts store for a reading and it came up with P0756 shift solenoid B performance or stuck off.
With all these various problems, I'm leaning towards the ECU.
Thank you!
When I got it back from the dealer, the "grabbing" of the brakes was not as harsh but then it returned after a day. Yesterday, the VSC, VSC off, check engines light, Maint REQD light came on. Today, those disappeared leaving just the MAINT REQD light on. I took it to the parts store for a reading and it came up with P0756 shift solenoid B performance or stuck off.
With all these various problems, I'm leaning towards the ECU.
Thank you!
#9
Lexus Test Driver
Bgw70, I have 79,600 miles. I bought it with 60,000 miles on it. I have not had the transmission fluid changed. It started when I coming to a stop, the brakes grab at 5mph. Shifting is off when I go about 40mph. It just doesn't shift the same. Before that, I had a bad tire with a leak - tire pressure light would come on. I bought a set a tires.
When I got it back from the dealer, the "grabbing" of the brakes was not as harsh but then it returned after a day. Yesterday, the VSC, VSC off, check engines light, Maint REQD light came on. Today, those disappeared leaving just the MAINT REQD light on. I took it to the parts store for a reading and it came up with P0756 shift solenoid B performance or stuck off.
With all these various problems, I'm leaning towards the ECU.
Thank you!
When I got it back from the dealer, the "grabbing" of the brakes was not as harsh but then it returned after a day. Yesterday, the VSC, VSC off, check engines light, Maint REQD light came on. Today, those disappeared leaving just the MAINT REQD light on. I took it to the parts store for a reading and it came up with P0756 shift solenoid B performance or stuck off.
With all these various problems, I'm leaning towards the ECU.
Thank you!
As for the brakes grabbing, easy first, remove the battery cable for 10 min, then see if it stopped.
i had the same problem after front end work. I removed the 10mm bolt holding thebrake sensor, wiped it clean and reset the battery. It was fixed and has been for 20k miles.
i hope the tire folks didn’t damage something.
BTW, can you do any of this work or are you at the mercy of a mechanic?
i don’t think you have an ECU problem...right now.
do simple things first...besides, new transmission fluid is always a good thing.
Last edited by Bgw70; 06-08-18 at 02:14 PM.
#10
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
I'm unfortunately at the mercy of the mechanic. I disconnected the battery for 10 minutes....same thing...brakes grabbing. The brake sensor makes sense. I agree...changing transmission fluid would not be a bad thing. I'll keep troubleshooting before shelling out big bucks.
Thank you!
Thank you!
#11
You have a trans code for a shift solenoid so it would appear the module is working. It’s giving data. Flushing out the fluid is a good starting point. If you pull out the fuse for the abs module and see if the brakes stop grabbing. That sound like a speed sensor reaction to bad data.
#12
Giddyup08 Va is a big state but maybe you are close? I would be easier for me just to scan your car and see whats going on. The auto parts stores can pull codes but you need to dig deeper into it, Most codes have subcodes that lead us in the direction of the problem, Bottom line is you need to have scanned with the right equipment by someone who knows how to use the equipment.
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