Door panel removal
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Door panel removal
so my speakers are shot and in need of desperate repair. I've read the speaker replacement but ail to see the final step of removing the trim panel completely. It seems to stick up where the door glass drops in the channel. Does anybody have a video link or description how to remove it?
thanks!
thanks!
#2
Lexus Test Driver
so my speakers are shot and in need of desperate repair. I've read the speaker replacement but ail to see the final step of removing the trim panel completely. It seems to stick up where the door glass drops in the channel. Does anybody have a video link or description how to remove it?
thanks!
thanks!
you should have removed about 8 bolts/screws and two push pins clips in the upper front.
The following users liked this post:
MLindgren (05-10-17)
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
i'll give it a go this weekend. I had removed all the screws but couldn't remove the panel. I ended up pulling the 6x9's from the bottom and did the foam repair. Of course I wanted to check the mods too but couldn't remove the panel.
#4
Lexus Test Driver
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...nks-zgone.html
#5
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
This is always my order:
1. ROLL DOWN window! (prevents scratched glass).
2. Remove the puddle light using a plastic pry tool, or taped screwdriver. Disconnect wire connection to the light.
3. Remove the tweeter cover. Just pry it away from door using hands.
4. Remove the plastic retainers at the front of the door panel where it meets the door jamb. Push in the middle, the outer ring will pop out.
5. Using a panel door tool (or a taped screwdriver tip) remove the window/lock switch unit. Start at the most anterior part (skinny, sharp outer point) and work your way to the round, posterior part. You will find a metal tension clip. Use your finger once you create enough gap to keep the switch housing lifted out of the way, and use the panel tool to push the metal latch clip inward (toward window switch). The whole unit will then slide out using a rocking motion as not to tear the padded leather area right above the switch. Discconect the wire connection to the switch.
6. Remove the three hidden screws. One behind the interior door handle pull (behind the black half moon shaped plastic), another under the window/lock switch faceplate that you removed in last step. Last one is under the leather arm rest at about a 45 degree angle.
7. Remove the two screws on the latching area of the door jamb. One holds the door sensor magnet striker plate, the other has a rubber protector.
8. Remove three screws from the bottom of the channel.
9. With window down, slowly work your hands around the left, right, and bottom of the door to unclip the plastic retainers. Doesn't take much force. DO not try to pull on the top (window channel area).
10. Now with the door fully open and WINDOW DOWN, pull the panel that is nearest the latch door jamb (where magnet striker was located) with gradual increasing force upward. At this point the panel should start to give way. Pull the remaining panel upward and AWAY from the side mirror rubber gasket, so you don't scratch it up.
11. Now support the panel either with your leg or a box, etc. Looking behind the panel, you will have to disconnect the blue wire connection to the lock. Also you will see a white and green steel cable. Take a photo, or make note of the position of the "threaded" portion of the cables in relation to where attaches to the door. I'd say mark the edge with a sharpie. Now you can remove the "ball" portion from the locking mechanism. If I recall correctly, one ball slides upward to unconnect, and the other slides downward. You might have to fiddle with the lock slide to line the cable up to the exit point.
12. Door panel should be free now.
13. To reassemble, reverse above.
Hope my written description makes sense. Best of luck.
1. ROLL DOWN window! (prevents scratched glass).
2. Remove the puddle light using a plastic pry tool, or taped screwdriver. Disconnect wire connection to the light.
3. Remove the tweeter cover. Just pry it away from door using hands.
4. Remove the plastic retainers at the front of the door panel where it meets the door jamb. Push in the middle, the outer ring will pop out.
5. Using a panel door tool (or a taped screwdriver tip) remove the window/lock switch unit. Start at the most anterior part (skinny, sharp outer point) and work your way to the round, posterior part. You will find a metal tension clip. Use your finger once you create enough gap to keep the switch housing lifted out of the way, and use the panel tool to push the metal latch clip inward (toward window switch). The whole unit will then slide out using a rocking motion as not to tear the padded leather area right above the switch. Discconect the wire connection to the switch.
6. Remove the three hidden screws. One behind the interior door handle pull (behind the black half moon shaped plastic), another under the window/lock switch faceplate that you removed in last step. Last one is under the leather arm rest at about a 45 degree angle.
7. Remove the two screws on the latching area of the door jamb. One holds the door sensor magnet striker plate, the other has a rubber protector.
8. Remove three screws from the bottom of the channel.
9. With window down, slowly work your hands around the left, right, and bottom of the door to unclip the plastic retainers. Doesn't take much force. DO not try to pull on the top (window channel area).
10. Now with the door fully open and WINDOW DOWN, pull the panel that is nearest the latch door jamb (where magnet striker was located) with gradual increasing force upward. At this point the panel should start to give way. Pull the remaining panel upward and AWAY from the side mirror rubber gasket, so you don't scratch it up.
11. Now support the panel either with your leg or a box, etc. Looking behind the panel, you will have to disconnect the blue wire connection to the lock. Also you will see a white and green steel cable. Take a photo, or make note of the position of the "threaded" portion of the cables in relation to where attaches to the door. I'd say mark the edge with a sharpie. Now you can remove the "ball" portion from the locking mechanism. If I recall correctly, one ball slides upward to unconnect, and the other slides downward. You might have to fiddle with the lock slide to line the cable up to the exit point.
12. Door panel should be free now.
13. To reassemble, reverse above.
Hope my written description makes sense. Best of luck.
The following 2 users liked this post by ShawnOk:
CrossBread (04-03-22),
Jabberwock (05-13-17)
#6
Question,
Door removal looks relatively straight forward. QUESTION, before I remove the inside Panel, what is the chances of the Door Clips Breaking when using the proper pry Tool, the clips that are qty 3, I believe they are blue in color?
Thanks!
Bob
Door removal looks relatively straight forward. QUESTION, before I remove the inside Panel, what is the chances of the Door Clips Breaking when using the proper pry Tool, the clips that are qty 3, I believe they are blue in color?
Thanks!
Bob
#7
Lead Lap
I only broke the couple at the front of the door once, but haven't broken any since and I've had the door panels off several times. The trick to those is to press in the center piece of it to unlock it. When reinserting them, you'll pull the center piece out and then press it flat once the clip is inserted.
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#9
Lead Lap
They are all fairly robust. They pop out with some prying between the door panel and the frame.
The following users liked this post:
hoffy5 (04-02-18)
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