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I just popped in a new Optima last week. The A/C worked beautifully at that point, before the install. I stood there while my guy put the battery in the car, and not any other thing was touched.
After the install, I drove the car several days to get the computer to re-set, and everything was OK except the A/C. The blower comes on, same as before, and the heater works, same as before. However, no cold air through the vents, only ambient temp air.
I unhooked the battery this morning, negative pole first, positive pole second. Let it sit for 45 minutes, then hooked it back up, positive pole first, negative second. Let it idle for a minute with no A/C turned on, then idled one minute with A/C on (still no cold air) then went out and drove car for 15 minutes with A/C switch "on" but still nada.
It's a 2001 IS 300 that I bought new in November 2000, 85,000 miles.
Any thoughts would be appreciated. Ralph L. Seifer, Long Beach, California
I just popped in a new Optima last week. The A/C worked beautifully at that point, before the install. I stood there while my guy put the battery in the car, and not any other thing was touched.
After the install, I drove the car several days to get the computer to re-set, and everything was OK except the A/C. The blower comes on, same as before, and the heater works, same as before. However, no cold air through the vents, only ambient temp air.
I unhooked the battery this morning, negative pole first, positive pole second. Let it sit for 45 minutes, then hooked it back up, positive pole first, negative second. Let it idle for a minute with no A/C turned on, then idled one minute with A/C on (still no cold air) then went out and drove car for 15 minutes with A/C switch "on" but still nada.
It's a 2001 IS 300 that I bought new in November 2000, 85,000 miles.
Any thoughts would be appreciated. Ralph L. Seifer, Long Beach, California
I just popped in a new Optima last week. The A/C worked beautifully at that point, before the install. I stood there while my guy put the battery in the car, and not any other thing was touched.
After the install, I drove the car several days to get the computer to re-set, and everything was OK except the A/C. The blower comes on, same as before, and the heater works, same as before. However, no cold air through the vents, only ambient temp air.
I unhooked the battery this morning, negative pole first, positive pole second. Let it sit for 45 minutes, then hooked it back up, positive pole first, negative second. Let it idle for a minute with no A/C turned on, then idled one minute with A/C on (still no cold air) then went out and drove car for 15 minutes with A/C switch "on" but still nada.
It's a 2001 IS 300 that I bought new in November 2000, 85,000 miles.
Any thoughts would be appreciated. Ralph L. Seifer, Long Beach, California
Sounds like you need Freon, R-134...try to repost in the IS300 area, those guys will be all over your issue!
Good luck!
AC suddenly blows only warm air. What could be wrong?
what has been checked:
AC control panel pulled from the dashboard and all wires checked - all three cable connectors are firmly in place. Disconnecting cables reset the clock.
Fuses 2, 15 in driver side fuse panel, fuse 27 in passenger side fuse panel, fuses 54, 57, 58 under the hood all tested good with a multimieter.
Air blower works and changes speeds with pressing of buttons - air comes from vents.
AC compressor does kick in, engine RPM goes up when AC button is pushed and some bubbles initially flow past the freon fluid sight glass in front of the radiator.
After few seconds no bubbles flow past the sight glass.
Low pressure AC freon line near the oil dipstick has a cap on it securely.
High pressure AC freon line near the freon sight glass has a cap on it securely.
Controls allow to change air temperature between hot and outside.
There seems to be sufficient freon (only few bubbles seen in sight glass initially).
other info: radio works, instrument gauge cluster works, headlights work
AC compressor clutch does engage and stays engaged (rotating) on the AC compressor when AC is on.
Both fans behind the condenser (behind the radiator) are working.
No obvious damage to the condenser or the lines, condenser not covered with debris.
Cabin air filter (behind the glove compartment) is clean.
Temperature of the high pressure line at 84F is slightly less than low pressure line at 87F.
I will also try to post pictures here of the thermal images of the high and low pressure lines.
What has not been checked yet:
AC compressor relay (haven't located it yet under the hood).
Not measured line pressures (no gauges).
This is '05 SC430
Last edited by tmakogon; 02-12-17 at 09:55 AM.
Reason: update with more info
...I'm in Dallas & I used a private shop.....I'm pretty sure you could use any of the ac shops located down there. The test itself is pretty simple & if you had the gauges, you could probably do it yourself. It will be able to tell you if there is freon in the system and/or if there is an issue with the high or low side of the compressor. Since this is "technically" still winter, having it tested shouldn't be that expensive.......what part of Houston are you located in ? I may be down there this weekend (18-20) for work & if the weather is going to be nice, just might bring the Sc out
Got AC pressures measured for free at PepBoys in W.Houston: low 105, high 125 psi. They say compressor is gone and recommended to replace compressor, condenser and remove/reinstall dryer. Other places quoted me from 89 to 125 for diagnostics.
I will start shopping for a new OEM compressor.
If you choose to drive the SC on I-45 it could be interesting to find out what is long-distance gas mileage at a nearly fixed speed, whatever is the limit now, without much braking/acceleration. I tried Hwy 6 / 290 over ~60 miles and saw about 28-29 mpg at 65mph (no AC, no braking, some hills). Had to reset my mpg info for that by holding the info button.
I have a question to the community: why is it a good idea to also replace the condenser? I think replacing the rubber hoses makes sense because rubber ages and may crack. However why should I fix an all-metal condenser with no moving parts if it ain't broken?
It is a common thought that when your compressor goes, it often leave debris in your A/C system clogging up the fine lines in the condenser. I don't always agree with that.
I do believe you NEED to replace your drier. It takes the moisture out of your system so there are no ice crystals, killing your new compressor.
I think you'd be surprised at how small the passages are in the condenser. When looking at it from the out side you would think they are decent size, They aren't at all. The lines are about the size of 4 pound test fishing line. Dashingdar is totally right that the drier needs to be replaced.
Got AC pressures measured for free at PepBoys in W.Houston: low 105, high 125 psi. They say compressor is gone and recommended to replace compressor, condenser and remove/reinstall dryer. Other places quoted me from 89 to 125 for diagnostics.
I will start shopping for a new OEM compressor.
If you choose to drive the SC on I-45 it could be interesting to find out what is long-distance gas mileage at a nearly fixed speed, whatever is the limit now, without much braking/acceleration. I tried Hwy 6 / 290 over ~60 miles and saw about 28-29 mpg at 65mph (no AC, no braking, some hills). Had to reset my mpg info for that by holding the info button.
I have a question to the community: why is it a good idea to also replace the condenser? I think replacing the rubber hoses makes sense because rubber ages and may crack. However why should I fix an all-metal condenser with no moving parts if it ain't broken?
..I usually get anywhere from 27-30 mpg,on a long distance drive & keeping the speed at 60-65.....BUT..I usually don't drive that slow on the highway/interstate when I'm traveling...lol....@ 80 mph or so, I can usually get 23-25 mpg. On replacing the condenser, alot of the companies will require you to change it, to give you a warranty on the new compressor
02-19-16, 09:03 AM
