2006 Shock Options
08-01-14, 07:28 AM
#46
guys don't know how good this setup is with the Swift Springs until they have it. right now i'm having Bilstein do the rear for a guy in the USSR that when finished I will ship to him. he can not get this done in USSR so i'm having it done here and will ship to him.
Last edited by bacardi11; 08-01-14 at 07:32 AM.
08-26-14, 11:50 AM
#47
So I didn't want to start a new thread, so I'm piggy backing off this one. I have a question. Recently had my oil changed and my tech mentioned that he noticed my Passenger Rear shock spring was out of place. Not sure how this can happen or if it's an issue but I've attached a photo. He mentioned that compared to the other side that the clearance btn the spring and link was really minimal and asked if I've heard any "clanks" or "rubbing." Which I haven't. Should I be concerned? Should I fix this problem, or just wait until I decide to replace all the shocks?
08-26-14, 03:51 PM
#49
Yes, there is more clearance on the left side when compared to the right. On the left, the link "sits" in a gap of the spring coil. But my question is, does this misalignment of the spring need to fixed soon or is it not of any consequence? The tech said that to reseat the spring they would have to remove the strut, spring, cap, etc, which would of course cost $. Not in my budget at the moment unless a true "emergency."
08-26-14, 04:18 PM
#50
.....if it was me, I might check with one of the local suspension shops & get there opinion. I would also tell them that you're planning to change the shocks out in a couple of months & ask for an estimate. They may give you a honest or more fair opinion about the spring issue, if they feel they can get to do the work...just my thought
08-27-14, 08:20 AM
#51
I will piggyback on this thread as well.
Last night I replaced my rear upper arm which was busted on the ball joint (at least the rubber cover was). I purchased a used one from ebay and it has been sitting on the shelf for about a year. I did this change thinking the clank coming from the DR side rear was caused by this upper arm.
I rented a set of tie rod pullers from Advance Auto and did replace the upper arm (which by itself is a challenge due to the bolt hidden near the gas tank). But with some sweat and tears, got it done. So I take it for a drive (I usually hear the clank going down the driveway, which is a steep one). Sure enough the clank is still there.
Now I did notice that my DR side spring is at the same location as previously shown on this thread.
Could it be that the “clank” is coming from this “unseated” spring? If I tear it down and re-seat it, I might as well replace the shocks…one or the other sucks that I still have this clank.
Last night I replaced my rear upper arm which was busted on the ball joint (at least the rubber cover was). I purchased a used one from ebay and it has been sitting on the shelf for about a year. I did this change thinking the clank coming from the DR side rear was caused by this upper arm.
I rented a set of tie rod pullers from Advance Auto and did replace the upper arm (which by itself is a challenge due to the bolt hidden near the gas tank). But with some sweat and tears, got it done. So I take it for a drive (I usually hear the clank going down the driveway, which is a steep one). Sure enough the clank is still there.
Now I did notice that my DR side spring is at the same location as previously shown on this thread.
Could it be that the “clank” is coming from this “unseated” spring? If I tear it down and re-seat it, I might as well replace the shocks…one or the other sucks that I still have this clank.
08-27-14, 01:47 PM
#53
I hated to see my busted upper arm anyway so I replaced it and without any credibility, I was hoping it was the cause of the clank (but I knew in the back of my mind it was bs). True enough as I slid down to my driver, the famous clank rang!!!
Towards the end of my upper arm replacement I noticed that my spring had a gap, it is supposed to be seated all the way to the stopper, I had the same condition just like what was shown on the picture. I knew it was not right. Tonight I will check the other side (Pass) and see if there exist no gap. I would bet you it will be different. I have not heard a clank on the pass side.
The pissy thing about this is the amount of work required to take the whole trunk off to get to the strut nuts. I just tore half the trunk off when I replaced my antenna to a stubby.
The good thing is that the rear struts are much easier to take off and put back, unlike the fronts. I do not know how you guys were able to do your without unbolting the front upper arm ball joint (in my case unbolting the upper arm bolts since I bought the wrong tie rod puller). And through this all, all it took was to rent the ball joint removal tool set from Advanced Auto and kwala, ball joint removed! (I had to use this for the Rear Upper Arm ball joint).
All about the right tools. I needed to lose a dew pounds anyway...but hated the uncertainty of not completing the work on time, it was 9:30 pm when i did my road trial. And to top it off, I had to request the pleasure of the wife's company since she had smaller hands, and she can access the tight spot to put in the 17 mm bolt for the Upper arm. That was PITA. I swore I will buy better tools, I need a 20 inch long 17 mm open wrench! And a 12 and a 14!
Back to the spring gap…
Towards the end of my upper arm replacement I noticed that my spring had a gap, it is supposed to be seated all the way to the stopper, I had the same condition just like what was shown on the picture. I knew it was not right. Tonight I will check the other side (Pass) and see if there exist no gap. I would bet you it will be different. I have not heard a clank on the pass side.
The pissy thing about this is the amount of work required to take the whole trunk off to get to the strut nuts. I just tore half the trunk off when I replaced my antenna to a stubby.
The good thing is that the rear struts are much easier to take off and put back, unlike the fronts. I do not know how you guys were able to do your without unbolting the front upper arm ball joint (in my case unbolting the upper arm bolts since I bought the wrong tie rod puller). And through this all, all it took was to rent the ball joint removal tool set from Advanced Auto and kwala, ball joint removed! (I had to use this for the Rear Upper Arm ball joint).
All about the right tools. I needed to lose a dew pounds anyway...but hated the uncertainty of not completing the work on time, it was 9:30 pm when i did my road trial. And to top it off, I had to request the pleasure of the wife's company since she had smaller hands, and she can access the tight spot to put in the 17 mm bolt for the Upper arm. That was PITA. I swore I will buy better tools, I need a 20 inch long 17 mm open wrench! And a 12 and a 14!
Back to the spring gap…
Last edited by mandyfig; 08-27-14 at 01:55 PM.
08-27-14, 03:18 PM
#54
I hated to see my busted upper arm anyway so I replaced it and without any credibility, I was hoping it was the cause of the clank (but I knew in the back of my mind it was bs). True enough as I slid down to my driver, the famous clank rang!!!
Towards the end of my upper arm replacement I noticed that my spring had a gap, it is supposed to be seated all the way to the stopper, I had the same condition just like what was shown on the picture. I knew it was not right. Tonight I will check the other side (Pass) and see if there exist no gap. I would bet you it will be different. I have not heard a clank on the pass side.
The pissy thing about this is the amount of work required to take the whole trunk off to get to the strut nuts. I just tore half the trunk off when I replaced my antenna to a stubby.
The good thing is that the rear struts are much easier to take off and put back, unlike the fronts. I do not know how you guys were able to do your without unbolting the front upper arm ball joint (in my case unbolting the upper arm bolts since I bought the wrong tie rod puller). And through this all, all it took was to rent the ball joint removal tool set from Advanced Auto and kwala, ball joint removed! (I had to use this for the Rear Upper Arm ball joint).
All about the right tools. I needed to lose a dew pounds anyway...but hated the uncertainty of not completing the work on time, it was 9:30 pm when i did my road trial. And to top it off, I had to request the pleasure of the wife's company since she had smaller hands, and she can access the tight spot to put in the 17 mm bolt for the Upper arm. That was PITA. I swore I will buy better tools, I need a 20 inch long 17 mm open wrench! And a 12 and a 14!
Back to the spring gap…
Towards the end of my upper arm replacement I noticed that my spring had a gap, it is supposed to be seated all the way to the stopper, I had the same condition just like what was shown on the picture. I knew it was not right. Tonight I will check the other side (Pass) and see if there exist no gap. I would bet you it will be different. I have not heard a clank on the pass side.
The pissy thing about this is the amount of work required to take the whole trunk off to get to the strut nuts. I just tore half the trunk off when I replaced my antenna to a stubby.
The good thing is that the rear struts are much easier to take off and put back, unlike the fronts. I do not know how you guys were able to do your without unbolting the front upper arm ball joint (in my case unbolting the upper arm bolts since I bought the wrong tie rod puller). And through this all, all it took was to rent the ball joint removal tool set from Advanced Auto and kwala, ball joint removed! (I had to use this for the Rear Upper Arm ball joint).
All about the right tools. I needed to lose a dew pounds anyway...but hated the uncertainty of not completing the work on time, it was 9:30 pm when i did my road trial. And to top it off, I had to request the pleasure of the wife's company since she had smaller hands, and she can access the tight spot to put in the 17 mm bolt for the Upper arm. That was PITA. I swore I will buy better tools, I need a 20 inch long 17 mm open wrench! And a 12 and a 14!
Back to the spring gap…
06-15-17, 09:00 PM
#55
Today, Jun 15, '17 I tried to install the Bilstein HD shocks on the rear of our '05 Lexus SC430. The shocks I ordered were for a 2000 GS 300 and were part no. 24-027441. Got everything all apart and ready to install new shocks only to find out the spring seats that came with the shocks would not fit the SC430 tapered spring bottoms. The spring seat that comes with the shocks is about 5-1/2 inches in diameter while the spring base is about 3-1/2" in diameter.
I contacted Bilstein USA 1-858-386-5900 in California and talked to Bryan. He told me the spring seats that come with the FRONT shocks (part no. 24-027434) for a 2000 Lexus GS300 are about 3-1/2 inches diameter at the bearing surface which would work with the rear springs I have on the '05 SC430. The spring seat part number needed is: Bilstein E4-FT2-Z006A01 Unfortunately they are very hard to find. Bryan was going to check his dealers who keep such parts to see if they might have them. He hasn't gotten back to me. Bryan also told me the shocks and seats were made in Germany and that may turn out to be the only source for the spring seats as parts items.
The other possibility for the spring seats would be to buy a pair of front shocks just to get the spring seats.
Will keep you updated as this goes forward.
I contacted Bilstein USA 1-858-386-5900 in California and talked to Bryan. He told me the spring seats that come with the FRONT shocks (part no. 24-027434) for a 2000 Lexus GS300 are about 3-1/2 inches diameter at the bearing surface which would work with the rear springs I have on the '05 SC430. The spring seat part number needed is: Bilstein E4-FT2-Z006A01 Unfortunately they are very hard to find. Bryan was going to check his dealers who keep such parts to see if they might have them. He hasn't gotten back to me. Bryan also told me the shocks and seats were made in Germany and that may turn out to be the only source for the spring seats as parts items.
The other possibility for the spring seats would be to buy a pair of front shocks just to get the spring seats.
Will keep you updated as this goes forward.
Last edited by thombiz; 06-19-17 at 04:01 PM.
06-15-17, 11:15 PM
#56
....hey thombiz sorry that you had that issue......I can't remember if the rear suspension switched in 05 or 06. I have a 02, I used the Bilstein Sports, not HD.....the part # I ordered W0133-1911223 (24-028035)....it'll be late tomorrow night (fri), but I'll try to do some research & see when the change occurred. If the 05 is the same as the 02, then the stock/part # I posted will work. I've had mine on since 2013 without an issue
06-16-17, 03:10 PM
#58
.......I hadn't had a chance to look up anything, but with that said, the Bilstein that you purchased isn't the one that purchased. I purchased the "sports" & you purchased "heavy duty".....could it be possible that the one's you ordered were for the Gs400 ?