Needed advice on remove rear emblem
Just a bit of fishing line and hairdryer will do it. Been posted many times if you search. If your replacing the emblems no big deal, otherwise you need to fill the two holes and paint for the centre badge.
Thank you aquanuke for fast reply I guess I can do the same with the front grill too.
As mentioned just some mono-filament line but I would add the monofilament line stretched between two blocks of wood. Then carefully pull toward you while moving the line up and down in a gentle sawing motion. Some believe using a heat gun or hand held hair dryer to warm and loosen tqhe adhesive helps the removal process.
On the front grille, once you've removed the screw the badge pulls straight forward. But you'll find you're left with plastic mount backing for the screw. Then it will be up to you. Dremel it off or some have used black paint or a black sharpee to hide it in the grille shadow.
On the front grille, once you've removed the screw the badge pulls straight forward. But you'll find you're left with plastic mount backing for the screw. Then it will be up to you. Dremel it off or some have used black paint or a black sharpee to hide it in the grille shadow.
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 879
Likes: 7
From: Formerly Easton, Pa. Bradenton FL, now Osprey Fl.
A plastic putty knife will also work. Used one on a Mazda MX-6 (changed to gold) and a ES 300 (changed to black). I would go the route of black paint or the sharpie (I used the sharpie) cause if you dremel it off, you can't change your mind and put the badge back on. You really have to look real close to see that the plastic piece is there.
the rear, perimeter identification badges come off with heat and
filament/dental floss, plus lots of adhesive residue removal/rubbing,
then compounding, polishing and wax buffing.
the large L logo is not only embedded, it's secured with two pins that
won't allow the filament removal process. even if you get the L off,
there's the indent to deal with.
this part of the your debadge should be handled by a professional.
filament/dental floss, plus lots of adhesive residue removal/rubbing,
then compounding, polishing and wax buffing.
the large L logo is not only embedded, it's secured with two pins that
won't allow the filament removal process. even if you get the L off,
there's the indent to deal with.
this part of the your debadge should be handled by a professional.
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Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 879
Likes: 7
From: Formerly Easton, Pa. Bradenton FL, now Osprey Fl.
Also if you are going to change and not remove. Put a piece of tape on the bottom or top of the old emblems. That way when you go to install the new ones, after cleaning you know where to put them, use the tape edge as a straight edge. Not to high not to low. Also keeps them lined up.
Thank you for all the advices friends,waiting for the stuff to arrive,on the front grill the only problem I see it try to get a screw driver in there with out remove the whole grill, could I just do the same thing in the rear for that.
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 879
Likes: 7
From: Formerly Easton, Pa. Bradenton FL, now Osprey Fl.
You can get a screwdriver in the front. I don't remember if I used a stubby phillipshead or an offset one. Either should work. For the back, while I haven't done an SC, it's only pins on back of the center emblem to align not to hold on. If you are replacing the center one wait and see what the new ones look like before taking off the old ones. That will give you a better idea as to what you are going to do.
Yes, Correct size..and mine is in great condition....I will e-mail you pics tomorrow. I just want to replace the front "L" on my'02...do you have the other emblems available as well? for my wife's '04 SC...Thanks, Bob






