I'll bring the beer!!!!!

 

The one I have installed from luxlink was a generic one as stated. You dont need luxlink. MY installer just ran it from from the master window switch to the motors. The only thing is that the top wont close with the windows up

 

Another look...

 

Which is why I don't understand the thread about having to mount a switch, although I guess that's the way to do it without the generic kit (which runs about fifty bucks). With the kit, its just a double click on the factory window switch.

Especially since I often have a kid sitting in the back seat, I'd love to have the rear windows up with the top down.

 

This is by far my favorite mod. Gives the SC another look. I especially like it b/c I don't have to drop my top all the time. Nice job Tommy, looks clean. Thanks for the props. By the way, where did you install your switch?

 

OK, OK, it looks awesome and we all want to do it, too... so where's the instructions for the DIY non Luxlink way? I'm ready to go out to the garage and start right now....

 

Here's the instructions which come with the DIY generic unit LuxLink distributes. I'm still hoping to interest Habious in this. It's no carputer, but its still cool!

 

JohnnyCake,

I'm already on it. I've got some ideas (and a couple of bits and pieces on order) and, if it works, I'll post my results.

 

I'll offer up my garage if you guys need a place to work.

BT

 

Update

I’m going to have to put a hold on posting up instructions, as I was working on my laptop a few nights ago it randomly showed a blue screen with the message saying critical memory dump or something, and it began to do a count down. I tried restarting the dam thing but it just goes to a blank screen and says please insert windows CD? So it’s at my friends house and he is trying to save all the info and documents I had on the hard drive. I will hopefully know by the end of this week if it’s salvageable. Once again, just sit tight until I can get my laptop back up and running since all the info, pictures, diagrams I had made were on its hard drive.

 

just pop out the HD and throw it into a hard drive case and copy out all the files you need, then put the HD back in the computer and reformat the bad boy. I've done it many times instead of spending hours trying to get the OS back up. plus reformatting cleans up alota junk

 

Thanks Tony,

One question tho, can I do that on a laptop, if it was a desktop I could rip it open and pull the drive but I’ve never touched a laptop and have no experience with it. My friend is still working on it, but the thing that pisses me off is that I had about 3 years of reports, essays, and other documents for work and school on it. its at these times that I hate technology and my stupidity for not backing it up.

 

All you need is a 2.5" external USB enclosure. You can find it online for about $20 and it converts any laptop drive to an external USB drive.

 

looken good

 

Luckily my hard drive was salvageable.. So with no further ado

******DISCLAIMER*********

Do this mod at your own risk, there is no guarantee this mod will work and if you mess up and fry your electronics then I (lexiss_sc430), ken (hipendicular) or anyone else is not responsible.


Also a big thank you goes out to Ken (hipendicular), this was his creation!!



Now with that said, if you do it correctly then this mod should work flawlessly, I did mine months ago and have yet to have a problem.

GOOD LUCK!

If anyone has questions you can PM me,


Pictures are at the end…



Here is the relay I bought
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=150158734934

YOU WILL NEED 2 RELAYS


Ok, now the wires for the rear quarter windows are as follows. There are 5 connectors on the top computer (the big computer off to the left of the trunk), A thru E with connector (A) being closest to the front of the car. The pin outs are a little tricky, so look for wire color and then check the pin out number to make sure you got the right wire.

The window wires are just slightly thicker than the smaller control wires but if I remember right, one of the windows motors has thicker wires for some strange reason. So left window is: Connector (E) pin # (7) color (Blk/Yel) and pin # (8) color Blk/Red. Right window is connector (D) pin # 3 color (Yel) and pin # 1 color (Blk).

The window wires should be either on top of each other or side by side.

Use common sense before cutting. I tried to cut the wires at least two inches away from the connector just in case. There really is no polarity on this whole system since, you can always reverse the relays or switch.

The power I used was from the package tray circuit. It’s a little harder to find than the window motors and double check to make sure you have the right circuit by pulling the fuse and measuring the voltage. This circuit is always powered so be careful. And lastly, you will need to replace the stock package tray circuit with atleast a 30amp fuse. I've used 30amp fuses on my car and the two other ones that I've done and so far so good. The package tray circuit is connector (C) pin

# (7) color (blu/Blk). And the ground I used for the windows was just
a one of the nuts that hold top computer.

Here is the wiring breakdown;

If you look at the relays you will see each terminal is numbered 1-14

Numbers 1 & 2 on relay 1 are inputs from the ecu side of motor # 1,9 & 10 are outputs of those wires from relay 1 Then those same wires go to # 1& 2 on relay 2 and then there output comes out the ends of # 9& 10 that you connect back into the wiring that goes to motor #1

Now window motor # 2’s wires goes into 3&4 and out of 11 & 12 on relay 1, then do the same input and output on relay # 2 when those wires come out of position 11 &12 from relay #2 they go back to the wiring for motor
#2

Now numbers 8,6 on relay 1 and 7,5 on relay 2 are power

Numbers 7 and 5 on relay 1 and 8 & 6 on relay 2 are grounds, then the ground swings from position # 6 on relay 2 to the backside of the switchboard to number 13 of relay 2 and 13 of relay 1.

Lastly, we wire the switch to posts #14 on relay 1 & 2


I wired my switch to my center console outlet, its a ***** to tap that wire as its really short and really down in the center console. If you want you can always find another circuit from the back but you will then need a three conductor wire vs a more standard two. Lastly, you can always send power to both sides of the switch and just ground the common but that’s more dangerous as it can lead to a short..

Before you go and wire everything up, make sure you have the right wires for the windows and you package tray power source (put in new fuse first). Ground one of the window wires and tap the package tray circuit to the other. You may see a spark but the window should move, if it doesn't release the power and reverse the polarity. Repeat for the other window.

Test this first as it will make trouble shooting a lot easier. If the windows go backwards with your switch, just turn the switch upside down or reverse the wires on the switch, do not reverse the wires on the relays. When you have the top computer disconnected, don't sweat that your front windows will not be one touch up or down, they will work again once the top computer is plugged back in and your top computer may trip out when you first get everything back together, don't panic, just hold the top close button down and it should reset, if not then you need to check your wiring.

Lastly, if you do get them working, don't drop the rear windows with out dropping the fronts or roll the rears up with the front windows up.

This will tear the molding and make the rear windows not seal right.

I've dropped the top with the rear windows down and so far the top computer doesn't seem to mind but I would roll them up just to be on the safe side.

Ok, that’s about all I can think of. Just take your time and make sure you use colored wires so you can easily see what 12v is and what ground is.













this should be your finished product