Hey all,

Last question before I order parts. Does anyone have any good, bad or indifferent ideas towards these two brands and their rear subframe mounts.

Switching over to TT sway bars and obviously need the mounts. The BV are 375 and the Titan (and Powerhouse) are like 280 or so. Not sure if it is worth it to spend the extra money for BV. The Powerhouse mount directly in the center where as OEM comes a bit offset like the BV and Titan. I read some posts on another thread about these and apparently some people have trouble getting certain mounts to fit but it appears it is mainly 97+ years with this problem, mine is a 94.

Also, the TT sways I got came with the u-brackets, bushings, hardware and end links. Will the stock end links work or will I meed to buy longer adjustable ones? And if so what do people run?

Thanks in advance, cheers!

 

This is something that can only be recommended if you have access to a template for this but... in actual fact other than maybe the rubber formulation differences between the SC and Supra the rear subframe mounts are exactly the same (SC and Supra) except that on the ones for MKIVs there are the offset mounting plates for the swaybar U-brackets.

Conceivably someone could just fabricate up their own metal plates, tap them for the right OEM bolt threads and weld them onto the SC subframe mounts if they knew exactly where to place them and if they could do it perfectly on each side. I'd only trust something like this to a very skilled welder however. If such a thing were to be done you'd want to make sure those mounting locations will be solid for all eternity.

But if you do not have a very skilled shop who knows what they are doing to make such a modification happen I'd go with any used OEM Supra or aftermarket off the shelf option. As I mentioned in the other thread the mounting point differences between the BV and Titan PHR solid mounts made me concerned just because Titan PHR deviated their design's mounting a bit from Toyota OEM spec but that may or may not make a difference. I also would like to hear thoughts from others on this.

97+ model years having trouble fitting rear subframe mounts is news to me. There should be no major differences back there but that is possible since 1997-1998 was one of the biggest updates to these cars during the full production run.

It could also have to do with any OEM subframe mounts having rubber to give a little leeway when installing them while any aftermarket solid mounts will have to go in very precisely since they have no rubber or polyurethane in them to offer any give upon installation at all.

As for the end links I don't remember offhand (it has been so many years since I did this) if the Supra MKIV end links are needed or if SC end links will work. When I installed my Supra TT rear swaybar I think I left on the MKIV end links so it's more than likely those which you will need. I think that PDF document you posted in the other thread tells if you need them or if you can re-use your SC end links.

 

So in the other post those were actually from Powerhouse not Titan. I will link a picture of the Titan mount as it appears to be the same as the BV, offcentered a bit. I can't imagine them being too different but I like to hear what people have to say.

Titan



Battle Version



Yeah I read in another posting on here quite a few people had trouble with different mounts and needing to widen holes but it seemed only later years but who knows.


Thanks in advance!

Sorry last question not sure if you know, how many solid steering rack bushings do I need to replace mine? 2? I was going to get them from figs

 

There aren't many people that would have experience with all the mounts to tell you the difference. The solid mounts, you'll have to drill/widen 1 hole to make it fit. It sucks after you spend all that money, but it has to do with the way the brackets are drilled. If you look carefully at the pictures in post #3, one side the bolt holes are farther a part than the other side. On the SC both sides are the same distance a part (narrower distance).

I have battle versions on my car, they had to be drilled. I didn't think that was right, so I ordered titans and the same issue was there. They would have had to be drilled too. The thickness of the base and the width of the bolt holes on the oem mounts make it possible for a bolt to go into place if you were to force it. With the solid mounts, the base is about 5x thicker, so a slight crookedness gets multiplied as you get further away from the base. My advice would be to try and buy them new from the dealer. It should be similar to the cost of solid.

As far as the endlinks go, SC ones will work, but you'll want custom endlinks that are shorter. I would go with figs engineering or battle version.

Steering rack bushings - the solid mounts only replace the 2 bushings on the driver side of the car, but not the clamp style bushing on the passenger side.

​​"Boergy" did this many years ago. If you search through his post, I'm sure you can find it.

*Edit* here you go Kahn https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...ml#post9759947

 

DubsackDev-- My apologies. I was mistakenly mixing up Powerhouse Racing and Titan in my mind. I was referencing the PHR solid mounts in my last post even though I said "Titan".

Blkexcoupe-- Thank you for that link to Boergy's custom mount DIY! I had completely forgotten that he documented that And the notes about how the solid mounts are drilled which requires them to be re-drilled are invaluable.

 

Thanjs for the reply brotha, that helps a lot! So the only issue with that is the OEM mounts are discontinued from factory and I have yet to hear from any one on Supra forums with mounts for sale but I'm still looking. When did you get your BV mounts? The only reason I ask is people commented that the Titan's do not fit as the listing on the website is listed for mk4 Supra however the BV lists them as SC300 mounts. So I'm just wondering how they are selling this mount marketed for our car yet it does not fit and needs drilled? Lol was the drilling hard? Did it yourself?

I will link another thread on here I found of people discussing this and one person said the Titan mounts went on no problem but obviously others had issues but there seems to be a brake line issue as well with the Titan mounts but that shouldn't be too hard.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...s-install.html


Thank you! Do you happen to know the exact size needed or a link for these from figs? The mk4 supra ones? The sway bars I am getting are coming with the Supra links as well so I will have the option of the SC or Supra links. Are the Supra ones shorter than SC stock?

Thanks! I will definitely be getting those 2 from Figs, do they make the clamp style as well I can't find it but I'm also an idiot lol
​
Again, thanks in advance from everyone for all the help!

 

That's what I thought too, so I went with the solid mounts. The thing that people don't realize is that part numbers change through out the years. The earlier year part numbers are discontinued, but the later years are still available (now that I think about it, I wonder if the mounting points are different similar to the SC). I don't remember exactly when I got mine, but its been 3 or 4 years. It's not hard to widen the holes, but it's annoying. Use a very sharp drill bit + some cutting oil and you'll be fine.

That thread confused me when he originally posted it because my friend bought my titan mounts around the same time, and he had to drill them out to fit his 97 SC also.


Just email figs, their customer service is great and tell them what you want to do.



Solid mounts only replace the 2 on the driver side. If you want to replace the clamp bushing, then you have to go poly. You would need the solid mounts + the poly rack bushings from figs.

 

My car is a 97 SC300. I have the Titan subframe mounts.

I didn't have any issues whatsoever installing them. I didn't have to drill any holes larger. HOWEVER, it was a nightmare taking the old mounts off. One was seized(rust) to the subframe peg.

The issue(s) i did run into with the Titan mounts, and also what I've seen people mention with the BV (I assume the PHR as well), was that you don't want to reuse the oem bolts because they're now a bit short in length. The billet mounts are thicker, and because of this you will need bolts that are xx mm longer to compensate for this. Also, because the holes in the billet mounts are oval shaped, I also bought thicker, wider washers to increase the clamping surface area of the bolt heads. So in the end, I bought 8 bolts that were (width of mount + width of thick washers in MM) longer.

I noticed right away that OEM mounts are offset for the swaybar, which was the reason I avoided the PHR mounts altogether (they are centered, most likely to save on costs) and limited my choices to the Titan or BattleVersion. There's a reason Toyota designed them that way.


For your final question, I have BattleVersion endlinks. They are adjustable and those were compatible with the both the original SC swaybars and the DoLuck JZA80 bars I have now.

EDIT - I see you're also asking about steering rack bushings. I have the Daizen on mine and when they eventually go bad, I'll be replacing them with Figs SuperPro poly. I do not recommend solid rack bushings for the street. They are great for racing applications but on the street you're gonna want some movement in the rack to avoid damaging it, like when you hit potholes or uneven pavement. The stress is amplified because the solid bushings only go on one side, which just puts even more pressure on the rack itself. There is one guy in the SC300/400 Mods groups who said solid bushings on his street drifter is why his rack cracked. He swapped in another rack but this time put in poly

 

So I'm not sure if you will know but I have a 94 5speed sc300, will the later year supra tt rear subframe mounts (#52206-14030 and #52205-14040) still fit my car? Or maybe at least be easier to install? Lol

I did read your thread on it and upon re-reading it, it appears to be more involved than I thought. You said having a hammer out 1 side to make them fit, plus drilling out the hole (do you have to tap it as well?) and I'm pretty sure I'll have to relocate a brake line or something back there as well? I also saw you said you hated them when you got them, did you keep them or get the OEM ones? I'm not sure if it's worth the work if it the OEM will still fit and will be easier.

Thanks in advance!

 

I didn't see these questions until now. I'm not 100% sure if the later model mounts will fit your car.

The hammering was because of how the billet mounts are designed. They left the edges larger to save on machining instead of following the oem mounts. The brake line will have to be removed, but you should be able to put it back in after the billet mounts are installed.

I ended up keeping them and swapping the coilovers out to KW v3.

Anyways, back to the reason I went to look for this thread. I pulled the mounts off my 93 TT subframe to shoot some comparison pictures

TT on top, my old 98 SC300 mounts on the bottom


If you notice on the mounts, the distance between the holes on the left (tt) is larger than the right (SC3)


This is the SC3 mount placed on top of the TT mount. If you look at the bolt hole on the right, it would have to be widened on the TT mount to match the SC3 mount.

 

^^ That is right. I now recall I did have to mark the areas that needed some widening with a bright color grease pencil to grind and widen a bit with a Dremel to allow the mounting bolts to fit into place on the TT mounts going onto the SC300's rear subframe.