Potential buyer needs input on near-mint 5spd SC300!
05-15-16, 10:32 PM
#31
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Congrats on the car man!!! First mods you need to do is buy a low speed buffer and some cutting compound, I bet that black paint will really come back to life. Plus you can polish the headlights with the buffer. If there is water in them, I found an easy fix is to first dry them out by removing the bulbs and getting a hair dryer or heat gun on low setting. Then put some black electrical tape along that top seal that you see when the hood is open. I occasionally replace the black tape on my headlights, they've been dry for 4 years now using that trick and I haven't had to take them out of the car to reseal them.
The transmission on my 1992 SC300 is the same way, stock car that I bought with 60k on it. It has 93k on it now, feels exactly the same. As for getting it shift into first, bring the rpms up a bit with your foot on the clutch, then slide it into first. Its called rev-match downshifting, takes some of the stress off the synchros. But yes, generally I don't shift to first unless its under 12-13mph, the 2JZ doesn't mind if you lug it a bit.
As for it not wanting to give you reverse, just put the car back to neutral, take your foot off the clutch, then put it back on the clutch, voila, it will seemlessly slide into reverse. The transmssions in my 1993 Toyota truck and 2004 Tacoma both had the same sort of quirks FYI, so I always assumed it was just a Toyota thing. Still check the clutch fluid level and maybe check/add some oil to the transmission next time you do an oil change. When you remove the bolt on the transmission(its right on the side, you can't miss it), stick your pinky finger in there, you should feel a bit of oil in there. If you want to add some, just keep pumping it in by a little bit till it dribbles out of the hole. Or just change the oil, it probably needs it anyways, my car shifted a bit smoother with fresh oil in it.
The transmission on my 1992 SC300 is the same way, stock car that I bought with 60k on it. It has 93k on it now, feels exactly the same. As for getting it shift into first, bring the rpms up a bit with your foot on the clutch, then slide it into first. Its called rev-match downshifting, takes some of the stress off the synchros. But yes, generally I don't shift to first unless its under 12-13mph, the 2JZ doesn't mind if you lug it a bit.
As for it not wanting to give you reverse, just put the car back to neutral, take your foot off the clutch, then put it back on the clutch, voila, it will seemlessly slide into reverse. The transmssions in my 1993 Toyota truck and 2004 Tacoma both had the same sort of quirks FYI, so I always assumed it was just a Toyota thing. Still check the clutch fluid level and maybe check/add some oil to the transmission next time you do an oil change. When you remove the bolt on the transmission(its right on the side, you can't miss it), stick your pinky finger in there, you should feel a bit of oil in there. If you want to add some, just keep pumping it in by a little bit till it dribbles out of the hole. Or just change the oil, it probably needs it anyways, my car shifted a bit smoother with fresh oil in it.
That's fantastic info, thank you so much. I'm very excited. And I've never owned a stick before, but have driven a few (at least well enough that my fellow valets usually ask me to park the manuals) but I'm still learning and definitely haven't practiced any "advanced" techniques.
Regardless, I've taken note of all you've said. Thank ya thank ya!
05-15-16, 10:43 PM
#32
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The exhaust also smells rather rich, in addition to the rough idle so maybe thats more of sensor problem and not related to the [under warranty 
] power steering which is slightly leaky, so very noisy
I'll get my mechanic to see if it throws any codes and go from there. Check engine light isn't on though... we'll see I guess
] power steering which is slightly leaky, so very noisyI'll get my mechanic to see if it throws any codes and go from there. Check engine light isn't on though... we'll see I guess
Last edited by Chattanoah; 05-15-16 at 10:46 PM.
05-16-16, 01:55 AM
#34
Congratulations!!
An OBD2 code scanner won't work on pre-96 cars.
You check for codes on 1992-1995's by turning the engine off, turning the ignition to Accessory or On but without turning the engine on. THEN jump TE1 and E1 on the diagnostic port (under the hood or under the dash on the upper left side underneath where the Fuel, Trunk and Hood releases are located).
A thick bare metal paperclip bent into the needed shape will do for this.
The check engine light will then flash a number of times for the first number, pause and then flash a number of times for the second number.
If more than one code has been tripped, the next set of flashes, pause, flashes will represent the next code. And so forth until the ECU begins flashing the first code again...
Pre-OBD2 CEL codes will only have two numbers in each.
http://www.troublecodes.net/lexus/
You may find you have no codes at all.
...
Rich smelling exhaust can be a few things. For one, given the age of these ECUs you may want to get your ECU's capacitors rebuilt. Tanin Auto Electronix is who we recommend for this service. Make sure you use plenty of insurance (both ways) and do not use an overnight shipping option for send or return (any overnight service is too risky).
There are other things to look into but that would be one of the first I'd recommend.
Rough idle can also be a bad TPS sensor but is usually associated with some other symptoms.
I'm assuming plugs, cap and rotor are all good. The best type of plugs to use are Iridiums (they last the longest between changes) and Denso plug wires are always recommended.
Without knowing anything about your engine's condition these are all just general things to consider but I would look into the ECU first. By now many of us have had to send an ECU in for capacitor repair.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...capacitor.html
The exhaust also smells rather rich, in addition to the rough idle so maybe thats more of sensor problem and not related to the [under warranty ] power steering which is slightly leaky, so very noisy
I'll get my mechanic to see if it throws any codes and go from there. Check engine light isn't on though... we'll see I guess
] power steering which is slightly leaky, so very noisyI'll get my mechanic to see if it throws any codes and go from there. Check engine light isn't on though... we'll see I guess
You check for codes on 1992-1995's by turning the engine off, turning the ignition to Accessory or On but without turning the engine on. THEN jump TE1 and E1 on the diagnostic port (under the hood or under the dash on the upper left side underneath where the Fuel, Trunk and Hood releases are located).
A thick bare metal paperclip bent into the needed shape will do for this.
The check engine light will then flash a number of times for the first number, pause and then flash a number of times for the second number.
If more than one code has been tripped, the next set of flashes, pause, flashes will represent the next code. And so forth until the ECU begins flashing the first code again...
Pre-OBD2 CEL codes will only have two numbers in each.
http://www.troublecodes.net/lexus/
You may find you have no codes at all.
...
Rich smelling exhaust can be a few things. For one, given the age of these ECUs you may want to get your ECU's capacitors rebuilt. Tanin Auto Electronix is who we recommend for this service. Make sure you use plenty of insurance (both ways) and do not use an overnight shipping option for send or return (any overnight service is too risky).
There are other things to look into but that would be one of the first I'd recommend.
Rough idle can also be a bad TPS sensor but is usually associated with some other symptoms.
I'm assuming plugs, cap and rotor are all good. The best type of plugs to use are Iridiums (they last the longest between changes) and Denso plug wires are always recommended.
Without knowing anything about your engine's condition these are all just general things to consider but I would look into the ECU first. By now many of us have had to send an ECU in for capacitor repair.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...capacitor.html
Last edited by KahnBB6; 05-16-16 at 02:03 AM.
05-24-16, 02:45 PM
#35
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For anyone that still cares, the rough idle/ rich exhaust issue was resolved with a new MAF meter, runs and pulls great now! Car is really nice, but I'm still bonding and learning to trust her haha.
Last edited by Chattanoah; 05-24-16 at 06:54 PM.
05-25-16, 06:32 AM
#37
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Also, thanks for your posts on my (maybe too many?) threads, it's really nice getting all this useful info from people that know what they're doing. More so than myself at least. lol.
05-25-16, 07:29 AM
#39
This thread has run its course. The car had been bought by the OP.
OP I suggest you start a build thread on the Builds Section so you can talk about anything with regards your car and people can help you out if there are more issues you want to discuss.
OP I suggest you start a build thread on the Builds Section so you can talk about anything with regards your car and people can help you out if there are more issues you want to discuss.
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