My AEM V2 hitting a cut of some sort thats shutting down entire system until I re-start the car. It's not boost cut, that is set to 30psi. This is cutting at 16-20lbs and will not let the car re start until I turn the key all the way off until I see the SAFC NEO (just hooked up to monitor) lights go out. If I do not wait for the lights to go out, the car will not start.
The car shuts down all engine power completely while the AEM shows rpm and injector pulse but no power while decelerating on the Dyno
We started a brand new map today and it is still cutting at between 16-20lbs. It's not really consistent as when I left the tuner today, It boosted hard past 20lbs a few times. I tried again after the rain let up an hour later and it was cutting/shutting down again.
The car is an Sc300 NA/T, R154, 1000cc, Comp 6767, Tial BOV/WG, Gredy Profec S EBC, SAFC NEO still hooked up just to monitor.
It did this consistently on the Dyno at about 20lbs.

 

are all your +12V sources switched ? Constant 12v causes connection and other issues. Use switched 12v always. A relay backfeeding the AEM EMS can cause problems though this may not be your issue. It is usually manifested when you can't restart the car unless you take away power to the ECU.

 

I will ask him today Gerrb. I am pretty sure they are.
It's a really strange one. AEM says our logs only show some knock sensor noise.

Thank You!

 

My Aeromotove stealth 340 and stock FPR and lines should be good at 25lbs and 600 or so hp right? Do I need to upgrade fuel?

 

Not a chance been there down that ...youre tuner should have been up on that already. and it could would be at ragged edge

 

+1 ...

Stock lines won't support 600rwhp . At +500rwhp you are actually pushing it with those lines. They are a bit smaller than 6an.

Studiogeek - your tuner should know that a 5/16 line will never provide fuel for more than +500. If he didn't know that as Lexforlife said , I will begin to worry .

 

He suggested I upgrade fuel but did so after the issue not before. Not sure if he should have known, or I should have brought him a car ready for the performance I desire. I get the feeling he is more of a really good general tuner of all cars than a 2J, tuning expert. He has quite a few high horsepower cars that have represented at the track over the years.

What do i need to buy guys? There is an Aeromotive 340 in the tank. The rest is stock. 25-30 lbs and 550 to 650hp would be fine for me. What would give me my best bang for my buck with safe fuel components. I'm dangerously over budget but i need this running right. What would I need to spend to make it flex fuel?

 

you will have to decide if you will stay only with Pump 93 or will use E85 eventually , that will affect what kind of fuel system you will need to build and what parts you will need. Do it right the first time.

 

for this goals if they are genuine targets , then I would do 1 walbro 455lph e85 pump , I -8an line from tank branched off towards front of car after filter split into 2 -6an lines to dual feed rail .. I personally have 2 -6an from tank feeding each side of rail using 2 walbro 255 as im strictly on pump gas ..when I eventually decide to go flex fuel will change to dual walbro 455lph and stage them via ecu .. make sure and run one -6an return line as the walbro big pump can over run 5/16 stock return line .. im able to lower my pressure down below 20 psi which shows me im returning fuel to tank quickly ..I also use a Weldon fpr as it has a larger return orifice

 

I am ready to do it right. And I want to run flex fuel Gerrb. Suggest away!

I may as well build a bit beyond what I have planned. How much might it cost to do your setup but for E85/Flex from the start Lex? I want the slightly over capable (for my goals) flex fuel setup. I just was a bit shy on pressure. I might as well guarantee i have more fuel than I need for the near future. :thumb:

The FPR i ordered is a Weldon a2040. The seller had to call weldon for the specs as these were custom ordered by a race team. He said it's a standard spring has Teflon seals and are good for 30 to 150psi bar pressure. With a 1 to 1 rising rate. Is that good?

 

You can't go wrong with the Weldon 2040 or 2047 ... one of the best . I never had problems in the 6 Weldon fuel regulators I currently have in my cars.

If you are trying to get up to 650rwhp on E85 , you will need bigger injectors than your 1000cc injectors. The cost of -8an PTFE lines and -10an PTFE lines are not that much different at anfittingsdirect.com ... though the -8an and split to -6an would work , you might as well go with the -10an feed split -8an since costs on that website on those lines and fittings are not much different. It will be overbuilt but you got all the room to grow.

You can't go wrong overbuilding your fuel system.

 

Darn straight I want to overbuild at this point. -10an feed split it is.

Pardon my ignorance but exactly what shall I ask the parts guy and installer for?

I have to order my parts AND explain exactly what i want to the installer with enough detail to get it right.

Thanks Guys!

 

I personally would not suggest going -10. Its just not needed unless you plan on going well north of 1200hp .. it comes down to volume and head pressure .. larger the line the more pressure it takes to fill.

Ive had extensive conversations with alpha and few other high hp builders down here about line sizing .

Trufanatic down here has a 1100hp supra on e85 built and tuned by induction performance and he's using 2 -6an dual feeding rail.

Also -10 lines are truly a pain in the azz to work with .. why not go with 2 walbro 255 for now running each pump with its own feed and down the road if looking to go north of 750rwhp on e , all you would need is to change pumps to 2 walbro 450lph pumps .. its alot cheaper and easier to work with .. also spend the extra coin and buy ptfe braided lines and fitting. they will not leak fuel vapors and will stand up to ethanol

Its just another perspective to consider.

 

Experiences of these people like Alpha who works day in and day out on these cars helps a lot and they can be the best people to listen to .

I just don't have any problem on this filling the lines since I have one way valves. Even Denso TT pumps have check valves on the pumps so the fuel should not be going back. Even on my Weldon pumps I put in check valves on the line so there is really no filling in.. pressure should always be there.

My rationale on bigger lines -> in that website I mentioned , the prices of PTFE lines by foot is not that much .. even fittings is not that much. WE on the other hand tend to always change our mind. Yes we say oh I am happy with 600rwhp .. then we get some extra money and would be wanting more. I have seen it time and again . Even the OP had changed his plans a hundred times on his setup.. he is now on 650rwhp.. inching up every now and then. We get 500-600rwhp now... then will build for more .. then for more ... every time we get some extra money. Then we will have to replace again the lines. So why not do it bigger now so you have room to grow especially if costs are almost same in doing a smaller one or a bigger one ? I maybe wrong but I don't see any problem of that filling in the lines if your system / pumps have check valves or one way valves which will always keep the pressure on the line on the feed and the regulator will hold that pressure . It will only return fuel above its preset pressure.

 

Thanks Guys!

We have stepped a bit beyond my comprehension but I would like to overbuild fuel as I do have a nasty case of "scope creep". This started as a $3500 build, lol.
What would be "overbuilding" to the sweet spot where I don't cause other (pressure?) problems?

I do have some logical limitations. The car HAS to remain a city traffic daily. We live in NYC and this car will never be 1000hp as drivability is paramount for me. I will creep up until I hit one of my walls I refuse to move. I will stay within the hp my Soarer R154/Single disk/Torsen/Turbo can handle. Anything I do above 550 or so in the city, will be done just because it is easy (if it in fact is).
What is the most logical line setup for a permanent R154 car stopping under 700?