1UZFE components identification help (93 SC400)
10-09-15, 06:04 PM
#1
Pole Position
Thread Starter
1UZFE components identification help (93 SC400)
Hey guys, I'm doing a 1uzfe 5 speed manual swap on a 94 Toyota pickup 2wd and I have a few questions for you guys. Any help will be appreciated.
1- I need help identifying the connectors in the pictures attached labeled A through F.
2- I don't plan to run cats, does the 1uzfe ecu kick a CEL for cats if they are deleted?
3- I noticed two fuel pressure regulators on both banks, can anybody tell me which one of the fuel line is the feed and return? Or it doesn't matter..
4- Are there available AM fuel rails out for the 1uzfe or I will have to custom make one?
5- there are three speed sensors on the auto tranny if I'm not mistaken, when you guys switch over to manuals, which one of those connectors do you wire your speed sensor to? The one at the very back of the tranny I'm assuming?
6- I want to install ARP head studs when I'm redoing my gaskets. Is there a specific set I need to buy? Or they are mostly universal? If so how many will I need?
7- Does anyone have access to a full ecu pinout for the 1uzfe engine that I can use?
Sorry for the 21 questions, I'm more of a JZ guy. This is my first UZ project
. again any help will be appreciated. Thanks
1- I need help identifying the connectors in the pictures attached labeled A through F.
2- I don't plan to run cats, does the 1uzfe ecu kick a CEL for cats if they are deleted?
3- I noticed two fuel pressure regulators on both banks, can anybody tell me which one of the fuel line is the feed and return? Or it doesn't matter..
4- Are there available AM fuel rails out for the 1uzfe or I will have to custom make one?
5- there are three speed sensors on the auto tranny if I'm not mistaken, when you guys switch over to manuals, which one of those connectors do you wire your speed sensor to? The one at the very back of the tranny I'm assuming?
6- I want to install ARP head studs when I'm redoing my gaskets. Is there a specific set I need to buy? Or they are mostly universal? If so how many will I need?
7- Does anyone have access to a full ecu pinout for the 1uzfe engine that I can use?
Sorry for the 21 questions, I'm more of a JZ guy. This is my first UZ project
. again any help will be appreciated. Thanks
10-21-15, 08:52 PM
#3
Driver School Candidate
#1 CONNECTORS
Can't really tell what I'm looking at, maybe if the photo was of each individual connector.... but check https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resi...int=file%2cpdf so maybe you can peep through it and see.
#2 CATS CEL YES OR NO?
I run no cats and do have a CEL that is currently on, so short answer, yes.
#3 FUEL PRESSURE REGULATORS?
Your answer is on page FI-24 in the FSM, you know the FSM that is in https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resi...int=file%2cpdf
#4 AFTERMARKET FUEL RAILS
Your best bet is something like TTC Performance Products, they deal with alot of 1uzfe performance stuff.
#5 SPEED SENSOR QUESTIONS
The one with the 2 yellow plugs is your NSS (Neutral Safety Switch). You just bridge these together and the car will start. You can bypass it or hook it up to the pedal, whatever you want. The Speed Sensor will plug right in and works. The rest of the wires can be zip-tied off to the side.
#6 ARP STUDS
You will have to custom order the studs, Lextreme used to have these in stock as a special run. Can be found on other sites for 359.99 to 459.99 depending on the site... Below is a quote from the old lextreme website.
Block: The OEM head bolts screw in about 2". Those head bolt are stretchable with 12mm hex. Each block have 10 bolts. 5 on the top row and 5 on the bottom row. The top row holes also have two holes that allow head guide. The total depth of the block hole is about 2.5", I am not sure if there are thread all the way down to the bottom of the hole. The block receiving end has 3/16" with smooth surface with out thread. This great place for the studs to bottom out. With the new studs coming in, we will be using only 1" thread on the block.
Heads: There two row of bolt patterns for the heads. Top row and bottom row. Top row is measured at 2.7" from the beginning of the head hole to the bottom of the head. Basically, its head depth length. The bottom holes are measured at 2.5". Its slightly shorter. The bolts/nuts are sit deep into the head. There are about 1.5" clearance. Basically, there are much room for the nuts, but clearance for the cams become a problem. I have done the following measurements.
Block: 1.40" (1" for studs, .4" has not thread) However, the block threads has about 2.5"
Gasket: .10" (actually its .093") stock is .051"
Head: Top row:2.7", Bottom row 2.5"
Washer: .20"
Nut: .50"
Total Required: 4.9"
Studs Length: 5.1"
The total is length required is 4.9" and the studs are 5.1" In order to make these studs. ARP asked me to send in a sample OEM stud and give them the above measurements. FYI, the top row of will require a .25" longer. The thread that goes into the block will be the sample. Here is the link on ARP Studs. However, the thread in the nut part will fine thread for fine adjustments. They are available now if you are interested. These are custom production and its only available via Lextreme. Special instruction will come with the studs.
#7 ECU PINOUTS
http://www.lextreme.com/PDF/scecu1.pdf
http://www.lextreme.com/PDF/scecu2.pdf
Can't really tell what I'm looking at, maybe if the photo was of each individual connector.... but check https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resi...int=file%2cpdf so maybe you can peep through it and see.
#2 CATS CEL YES OR NO?
I run no cats and do have a CEL that is currently on, so short answer, yes.
#3 FUEL PRESSURE REGULATORS?
Your answer is on page FI-24 in the FSM, you know the FSM that is in https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resi...int=file%2cpdf
#4 AFTERMARKET FUEL RAILS
Your best bet is something like TTC Performance Products, they deal with alot of 1uzfe performance stuff.
#5 SPEED SENSOR QUESTIONS
The one with the 2 yellow plugs is your NSS (Neutral Safety Switch). You just bridge these together and the car will start. You can bypass it or hook it up to the pedal, whatever you want. The Speed Sensor will plug right in and works. The rest of the wires can be zip-tied off to the side.
#6 ARP STUDS
You will have to custom order the studs, Lextreme used to have these in stock as a special run. Can be found on other sites for 359.99 to 459.99 depending on the site... Below is a quote from the old lextreme website.
Block: The OEM head bolts screw in about 2". Those head bolt are stretchable with 12mm hex. Each block have 10 bolts. 5 on the top row and 5 on the bottom row. The top row holes also have two holes that allow head guide. The total depth of the block hole is about 2.5", I am not sure if there are thread all the way down to the bottom of the hole. The block receiving end has 3/16" with smooth surface with out thread. This great place for the studs to bottom out. With the new studs coming in, we will be using only 1" thread on the block.
Heads: There two row of bolt patterns for the heads. Top row and bottom row. Top row is measured at 2.7" from the beginning of the head hole to the bottom of the head. Basically, its head depth length. The bottom holes are measured at 2.5". Its slightly shorter. The bolts/nuts are sit deep into the head. There are about 1.5" clearance. Basically, there are much room for the nuts, but clearance for the cams become a problem. I have done the following measurements.
Block: 1.40" (1" for studs, .4" has not thread) However, the block threads has about 2.5"
Gasket: .10" (actually its .093") stock is .051"
Head: Top row:2.7", Bottom row 2.5"
Washer: .20"
Nut: .50"
Total Required: 4.9"
Studs Length: 5.1"
The total is length required is 4.9" and the studs are 5.1" In order to make these studs. ARP asked me to send in a sample OEM stud and give them the above measurements. FYI, the top row of will require a .25" longer. The thread that goes into the block will be the sample. Here is the link on ARP Studs. However, the thread in the nut part will fine thread for fine adjustments. They are available now if you are interested. These are custom production and its only available via Lextreme. Special instruction will come with the studs.
#7 ECU PINOUTS
http://www.lextreme.com/PDF/scecu1.pdf
http://www.lextreme.com/PDF/scecu2.pdf
Last edited by Pilot27; 10-21-15 at 09:28 PM.
10-21-15, 09:23 PM
#4
Pole Position
Thread Starter
#1 CONNECTORS
Can't really tell what I'm looking at, maybe if the photo was of each individual connector.... but check your pm for the FSM so maybe you can peep through it and see.
#2 CATS CEL YES OR NO?
I run no cats and do have a CEL that is currently on, so short answer, yes.
#3 FUEL PRESSURE REGULATORS?
Your answer is on page FI-24 in the FSM, you know the FSM that is in your inbox.
#4 AFTERMARKET FUEL RAILS
Your best bet is something like TTC Performance Products, they deal with alot of 1uzfe performance stuff.
#5 SPEED SENSOR QUESTIONS
The one with the 2 yellow plugs is your NSS (Neutral Safety Switch). You just bridge these together and the car will start. You can bypass it or hook it up to the pedal, whatever you want. The Speed Sensor will plug right in and works. The rest of the wires can be zip-tied off to the side.
#6 ARP STUDS
You will have to custom order the studs, Lextreme used to have these in stock as a special run. Can be found on other sites for 359.99 to 459.99 depending on the site... Below is a quote from the old lextreme website.
Block: The OEM head bolts screw in about 2". Those head bolt are stretchable with 12mm hex. Each block have 10 bolts. 5 on the top row and 5 on the bottom row. The top row holes also have two holes that allow head guide. The total depth of the block hole is about 2.5", I am not sure if there are thread all the way down to the bottom of the hole. The block receiving end has 3/16" with smooth surface with out thread. This great place for the studs to bottom out. With the new studs coming in, we will be using only 1" thread on the block.
Heads: There two row of bolt patterns for the heads. Top row and bottom row. Top row is measured at 2.7" from the beginning of the head hole to the bottom of the head. Basically, its head depth length. The bottom holes are measured at 2.5". Its slightly shorter. The bolts/nuts are sit deep into the head. There are about 1.5" clearance. Basically, there are much room for the nuts, but clearance for the cams become a problem. I have done the following measurements.
Block: 1.40" (1" for studs, .4" has not thread) However, the block threads has about 2.5"
Gasket: .10" (actually its .093") stock is .051"
Head: Top row:2.7", Bottom row 2.5"
Washer: .20"
Nut: .50"
Total Required: 4.9"
Studs Length: 5.1"
The total is length required is 4.9" and the studs are 5.1" In order to make these studs. ARP asked me to send in a sample OEM stud and give them the above measurements. FYI, the top row of will require a .25" longer. The thread that goes into the block will be the sample. Here is the link on ARP Studs. However, the thread in the nut part will fine thread for fine adjustments. They are available now if you are interested. These are custom production and its only available via Lextreme. Special instruction will come with the studs.
#7 ECU PINOUTS
http://www.lextreme.com/PDF/scecu1.pdf
http://www.lextreme.com/PDF/scecu2.pdf
Can't really tell what I'm looking at, maybe if the photo was of each individual connector.... but check your pm for the FSM so maybe you can peep through it and see.
#2 CATS CEL YES OR NO?
I run no cats and do have a CEL that is currently on, so short answer, yes.
#3 FUEL PRESSURE REGULATORS?
Your answer is on page FI-24 in the FSM, you know the FSM that is in your inbox.
#4 AFTERMARKET FUEL RAILS
Your best bet is something like TTC Performance Products, they deal with alot of 1uzfe performance stuff.
#5 SPEED SENSOR QUESTIONS
The one with the 2 yellow plugs is your NSS (Neutral Safety Switch). You just bridge these together and the car will start. You can bypass it or hook it up to the pedal, whatever you want. The Speed Sensor will plug right in and works. The rest of the wires can be zip-tied off to the side.
#6 ARP STUDS
You will have to custom order the studs, Lextreme used to have these in stock as a special run. Can be found on other sites for 359.99 to 459.99 depending on the site... Below is a quote from the old lextreme website.
Block: The OEM head bolts screw in about 2". Those head bolt are stretchable with 12mm hex. Each block have 10 bolts. 5 on the top row and 5 on the bottom row. The top row holes also have two holes that allow head guide. The total depth of the block hole is about 2.5", I am not sure if there are thread all the way down to the bottom of the hole. The block receiving end has 3/16" with smooth surface with out thread. This great place for the studs to bottom out. With the new studs coming in, we will be using only 1" thread on the block.
Heads: There two row of bolt patterns for the heads. Top row and bottom row. Top row is measured at 2.7" from the beginning of the head hole to the bottom of the head. Basically, its head depth length. The bottom holes are measured at 2.5". Its slightly shorter. The bolts/nuts are sit deep into the head. There are about 1.5" clearance. Basically, there are much room for the nuts, but clearance for the cams become a problem. I have done the following measurements.
Block: 1.40" (1" for studs, .4" has not thread) However, the block threads has about 2.5"
Gasket: .10" (actually its .093") stock is .051"
Head: Top row:2.7", Bottom row 2.5"
Washer: .20"
Nut: .50"
Total Required: 4.9"
Studs Length: 5.1"
The total is length required is 4.9" and the studs are 5.1" In order to make these studs. ARP asked me to send in a sample OEM stud and give them the above measurements. FYI, the top row of will require a .25" longer. The thread that goes into the block will be the sample. Here is the link on ARP Studs. However, the thread in the nut part will fine thread for fine adjustments. They are available now if you are interested. These are custom production and its only available via Lextreme. Special instruction will come with the studs.
#7 ECU PINOUTS
http://www.lextreme.com/PDF/scecu1.pdf
http://www.lextreme.com/PDF/scecu2.pdf
10-24-15, 08:41 AM
#5
Are you planning on big power with this build? If not, I would just use OEM bolts. They work just fine. ARP seems like a waste of funds for a stock/semi stock motor.
Edit: Let me clarify before someone calls me on it.
The 1UZ does not need them. Motors like say, they 7MGE/GTE do stock. In this particular *application*, to me they are a waste of money.
Edit: Let me clarify before someone calls me on it.
The 1UZ does not need them. Motors like say, they 7MGE/GTE do stock. In this particular *application*, to me they are a waste of money.
Last edited by pogoism9; 10-24-15 at 08:43 AM. Reason: clarification
10-24-15, 08:19 PM
#7
Pole Position
Thread Starter
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10-24-15, 08:22 PM
#8
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Are you planning on big power with this build? If not, I would just use OEM bolts. They work just fine. ARP seems like a waste of funds for a stock/semi stock motor.
Edit: Let me clarify before someone calls me on it.
The 1UZ does not need them. Motors like say, they 7MGE/GTE do stock. In this particular *application*, to me they are a waste of money.
Edit: Let me clarify before someone calls me on it.
The 1UZ does not need them. Motors like say, they 7MGE/GTE do stock. In this particular *application*, to me they are a waste of money.
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