Is my alternator shot?
#17
Intermediate
Thread Starter
All of these things work, I'll try the cycling when I get home. Doesn't that just cut fuel thogh?
#18
Did you replace the battery cables? Can't emphasize enough how much this sounds like a (bad) Grounding issue.
Try this: with the battery fully connected take a jumper cable and attach it to the negative battery terminal, then connect the other end to a sturdy metal connection on the engine block (I found a solid connection near the runners/manifold). Then try and start the car.
Try this: with the battery fully connected take a jumper cable and attach it to the negative battery terminal, then connect the other end to a sturdy metal connection on the engine block (I found a solid connection near the runners/manifold). Then try and start the car.
#19
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Did you replace the battery cables? Can't emphasize enough how much this sounds like a (bad) Grounding issue.
Try this: with the battery fully connected take a jumper cable and attach it to the negative battery terminal, then connect the other end to a sturdy metal connection on the engine block (I found a solid connection near the runners/manifold). Then try and start the car.
Try this: with the battery fully connected take a jumper cable and attach it to the negative battery terminal, then connect the other end to a sturdy metal connection on the engine block (I found a solid connection near the runners/manifold). Then try and start the car.
#20
Hi, I know it is a long shot but have you checked that the battery terminals are clean and tight? That the lead to the starter motor is able to hold high current.. normal running current will be only 10-50 amps but starter current in the hundreds of amps.
I've seen a similar thing with the glass fuse type,
where they will test fine with a multimeter for continuity but have no hope of handling high current. In this case it was for a high volume fuel pump. Replaced the fuse and all was fine. I'm not suggesting it is a fuse but just giving an example of how high and low current can give different results.
I noticed in your last vid that when you go to start you loose lights on the dash. This makes me think it is a poor electrical connection or perhaps even a damaged cable to your starter. It may not be obvious.
You said you where going to replace the cables but have you yet?
To check if the starter will spin use jumper cables and bypass all the in car electrics. Place the jumper leads on the battery terminals and the other positive lead on the starter motor, if the motor cranks then it is a wire problem from battery to starter motor.
It would be much easier if you could do this out of the car or course.
AGA type fuse
AGA fuse
I've seen a similar thing with the glass fuse type,
where they will test fine with a multimeter for continuity but have no hope of handling high current. In this case it was for a high volume fuel pump. Replaced the fuse and all was fine. I'm not suggesting it is a fuse but just giving an example of how high and low current can give different results.
I noticed in your last vid that when you go to start you loose lights on the dash. This makes me think it is a poor electrical connection or perhaps even a damaged cable to your starter. It may not be obvious.
You said you where going to replace the cables but have you yet?
To check if the starter will spin use jumper cables and bypass all the in car electrics. Place the jumper leads on the battery terminals and the other positive lead on the starter motor, if the motor cranks then it is a wire problem from battery to starter motor.
It would be much easier if you could do this out of the car or course.
AGA type fuse
AGA fuse
Last edited by lateralnw; 10-11-15 at 01:55 AM. Reason: Image size reduced
#21
Intermediate
Thread Starter
UPDATE
So I did this, and it didn't change anything.
Tried it, and:
I guess the moral of the story is to never underestimate bad connections on a 20-year-old vehicle.
Can't emphasize enough how much this sounds like a (bad) Grounding issue.
Try this: with the battery fully connected take a jumper cable and attach it to the negative battery terminal, then connect the other end to a sturdy metal connection on the engine block (I found a solid connection near the runners/manifold). Then try and start the car.
Try this: with the battery fully connected take a jumper cable and attach it to the negative battery terminal, then connect the other end to a sturdy metal connection on the engine block (I found a solid connection near the runners/manifold). Then try and start the car.
I guess the moral of the story is to never underestimate bad connections on a 20-year-old vehicle.
#22
#23
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Yeah. Need to rig up a replacement cable set. One hitch- I pulled it out and I'm not quite sure if I have the little cable in the right place... Would you be able to verify? https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-1st-gen-1992-2000/799988-is-this-battery-wiring-setup-correct.html
#24
Yeah. Need to rig up a replacement cable set. One hitch- I pulled it out and I'm not quite sure if I have the little cable in the right place... Would you be able to verify? https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...p-correct.html
#25
Intermediate
Thread Starter
UPDATE:
After re-creating the starter wiring with 39" and a 19" starter-to-switch cables from AutoZone, she's up and running once again.
The aforementioned wiring is pictured in this thread:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...p-correct.html
Special thanks to lateralnw for being so helpful.
After re-creating the starter wiring with 39" and a 19" starter-to-switch cables from AutoZone, she's up and running once again.
The aforementioned wiring is pictured in this thread:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...p-correct.html
Special thanks to lateralnw for being so helpful.
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