Bleeding ABS
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Driver School Candidate
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: OH
Bleeding ABS
Is it possible to bleed the OEM SC300 brakes without any special electronic tools? This car has ABS (I believe) and some mid 90s cars required a scanner tool that you plug in and manually open the valves so that you could bleed the rear lines. I need to replace rear brakes and was debating on getting new calipers so I could paint them (these are too ugly and rusty to paint). But if I take the calipers off and can't bleed the brakes I'll be screwed. Just checking before I tear into this thing! Thanks in advance.
Yes, just have some one pump the brakes and then hold the pedal down while you let the drain release the old fluid into a container. Then just check the brake fluid reservoir and keep refilling it as you do that to all 4 corners of the brake system. People say to start at the corner of the car farthest from the master cylinder, but that doesnt make much sense to me, and the first time I did it that way (rear wheels to front wheels) there was still air left in the system. So I suggest doing it from closes to the master cylinder to farthest so start with the front wheel and go to the back
It works a lot better than using a vacuum pump or whatever.
I suggest getting some 3/8 clear vinyl tube to attach to the drain plug on the caliper as it makes it much easier to not mess everything up with brake fluid.
If the above doesn't make enough sense this site has better instructions, but be aware its a two person job.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...-bleed-brakes/
It works a lot better than using a vacuum pump or whatever.
I suggest getting some 3/8 clear vinyl tube to attach to the drain plug on the caliper as it makes it much easier to not mess everything up with brake fluid.
If the above doesn't make enough sense this site has better instructions, but be aware its a two person job.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...-bleed-brakes/
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 47
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From: OH
Good to know you can do it. I've bled brakes on all kinds of cars/trucks, but some of the ones with ABS don't play nice.
I went ahead and replaced the pads and rotors but my calipers are the originals that came on it and they were beyond painting. Their new color is rust lol. The car will at least stop now w/out grinding so that's a start. Thanks for the reply.
I went ahead and replaced the pads and rotors but my calipers are the originals that came on it and they were beyond painting. Their new color is rust lol. The car will at least stop now w/out grinding so that's a start. Thanks for the reply.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 129
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From: NJ
I have a 1998 SC300, I did the 2 man bleeding process. The brake pedal was half way when I stepped on it during the bleeding process. The moment I start the car, the brake pedals goes to the floor. Any suggestions?
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 47
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From: OH
I ended up not replacing my rear calipers this time, I just cleaned and lubed them up and put the new rotors and pads on. So I have not actually bled my system yet.
Sounds to me like you still have air in the lines though. Even if you do things perfectly it can happen. I know on my old stock car I got air in the lines no matter what I did, vaccume bleed, manual bleed etc. In cases like that I would pop open the valves on each caliper just enough so air could come out and it sit overnight. If you do this make sure you put a clean can under the calipers in case fluid slowly drips out, and you can reuse it.
Sounds to me like you still have air in the lines though. Even if you do things perfectly it can happen. I know on my old stock car I got air in the lines no matter what I did, vaccume bleed, manual bleed etc. In cases like that I would pop open the valves on each caliper just enough so air could come out and it sit overnight. If you do this make sure you put a clean can under the calipers in case fluid slowly drips out, and you can reuse it.
oh and some dot 3 brake fluid
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