Dudes,




My manual sc300 5-speed is not displaying the CHECK ENGINE light. Everything else seems to work fine, electrically. After several tests I found the following on the ECU/ECM main board.





I'll send Tanin Auto an e-mail with this photo attached and hopefully it's something they can repair.



- we shall see

 

Driftmotion can repair your ecu caps.

 

1: driftmotion sucks. That's nice that they have most stuff needed in one place, but you pay about 15-20% more for not vein resourceful. They also use Chinese garbage, and many other fine pouts I won't speak of.

2: the OP has a problem with a resistor, not capacitor. Based on the picture

 

Who knows what caused that.

Even if we replace/fix that it may immediately happen again either by something faulty inside or outside of the ECU.

Did a sensor or something in the car short out?

 

Dude,


I purchased the vehicle in a non-running state. I have been slowly making it a running car again. It now runs, idles perfectly, new clutch works great, etc. A lot of hacks have occurred to this machine over the years and I can't begin to imagine what all has happened. Other than no CHECK ENGINE light, everything else seems to operate correctly. Well, the AIRBAG light is ON but that's to be expected.

 

We can certainly replace the capacitors and replace that burned out component. Couldn't promise that your light will work.

I take it you verified the actual bulb in the cluster is still there?

 

Dude,


Yes, I replaced it myself and verified that it only lights up when you ground the circuit at the ECU. All other continuity checks pointed to a problem at the ECU; that's when I removed the ECU from the car and opened it up to find the blown resistor.

 

Dudes,



I examined the other side of the circuit board and found more possible damage. In addition to the blown resistor it seems there's a vaporized transistor (T821) and possibly damaged capacitor (C009). Electrolyte leakage from transistors T807 and T808 is also readily apparent.






Hopefully this can be repaired.

 

No. T281 is still there ... the black rectangular shaped component. Look at the other T808. The printed stuff is slightly offset.

The question on every ones mind is what caused the resistor to burn out. Too much current producing too much heat to blow the resistance up and heat up the circuit board.

I hope the repair facility has means to check the repair by installing the ecu in a test car. If they dont, they at least must power the ecu and check nothing heats up or the ecu draws expected current.
When you get the ecu back and plug it it, keep a finger on the new resistance and if you feel instant warm-up pull the plug. Sometimes the components smoke very quickly and sometimes you can smell the part heating up. So exercise caution.

Salim

 

Salim dude,


I see exactly what you're saying and it's a relief that the board is less damaged than I originally believed. I mailed it to Tanin today and hopefully early next week I'll receive word about whether they can repair it or not. This car has been through a lot of abuse so anything is possible regarding current overload, etc.

 

Im having a weird problem right now where my car is not throwing a code but just turns the belt over and over and wont start, it does show a low oil light though.

 

Dudes,


A follow-up to the ECU issues. I shipped the ECU to Tanin. For around $140.00 and ten working days or so, I received a fully-functional ECU with no apparent issues. The capacitors were replaced and the blown resistor was also repaired. Check engine light functions normally and I was finally able to check for error codes; luckily I had none. I'm very satisfied.








.

 

Another testement to outstanding service.

 

Great to see a plan workout.

 

Same thing happened to me. Happened randomly at a red light, fried ECU I could actually smell it in the car. So I just bought a replacement manual ECU I was lucky to find one locally.