Headunit finally replaced.......
Originally posted by sealevel
......The GPS should be in by next week, time permitting. I have the same system in my truck, the Pioneer navigation is good stuff......
......The GPS should be in by next week, time permitting. I have the same system in my truck, the Pioneer navigation is good stuff......
did that set you back?
yeah I have the AVIC-90DVD I paid $900 for it.
Din, yeah the spare is in there, I can get to it if I need to. But as you can see from the pic I was careful to hide all the screws, so I have to carry a screwdriver just in case.
Din, yeah the spare is in there, I can get to it if I need to. But as you can see from the pic I was careful to hide all the screws, so I have to carry a screwdriver just in case.
Originally posted by sealevel
...yeah I have the AVIC-90DVD I paid $900 for it.
...yeah I have the AVIC-90DVD I paid $900 for it.
unit, and that price is awesome.....
Originally posted by sealevel
.....There are also tuned ports built into the OEM speaker holes. They are tuned to 38 hz......
.....There are also tuned ports built into the OEM speaker holes. They are tuned to 38 hz......
information out there (instructions, calculators, etc), but I haven't found any on how to create
a ported enclosure of this type, with the port apparently "tubed" up an opening on the rear deck.
Does tubing the port to the rear deck really make a big difference? I know these cars are very
well built, and between the gas tank and metal sheet behind the rear, not sure the best way to
get "bang" into the listening/feeling area.....lol.

Yes, I read up on other designs, threads, forums, etc..... but anyone out there have any ideas?
comments? complaints? Is porting the enclosure into the rear deck a good idea? If so how?
I was looking to put one JL Audio in the back, either 10" (10W6v2) or 12" (12W6v2), probably
on the right side (took the cd changer out).
Anyways, hopefully you guys out there have done or designed something similiar, or have better
advice......
Thanks in advance.
Autohype-
There are tons of ways to get good sound from a trunk. The ports are not tubed from the boxes, the Eclipse subs don't do well in a ported enclosure. Some others such as Rockford Fosgate love a ported enclosure, assuming it is properly constructed. My trunk is effectively a 4th order band pass box, or basically a sealed box inside for a larger ported box (that being the trunk). So the port length was calculated based upon the expected performance of the woofer in the sealed enclosure. So just like you would calculated a port in a vented enclosure based on the raw drivers specs, I took those driver specs, built the sealed enclosure, then took those results and used them to calculate port length.
The porting does a few things, it allowed me to "tune"¨ the box to resonate at 38hz, which is a bit lower than I would usually go, most of the time I tune around 44-48hz that¡¦s where most of the music is, yes even rap stuff
There is a little bit of music below there but not a significant amount to go any lower IMHO. Although it does depend on your listening habits, and more importantly the capabilities of the driver you choose. The 8812 DVC''s will go way on down there, and roll off is minimal within their given frequency response. The introduction of the ports also stops that annoying trunk rattle, the pressure has some place to go, and doesn't have to "bang'¨ its way through our trunks. It makes for a smother sound, and a louder more efficient system.
There is NO WAY I would consider putting a subwoofer(s) in a trunks without some sort of porting or venting into the cabin, I know everyone has heard the ¡§ghetto knock¡¨ it¡¦s just not for me, but to each his own, another subject I suppose
And as you pointed out, there is a lot of stuff between the trunk and the cabin, very well insulated. So realistically, a "vent"¨ or a true tuned port build is really the only way to do it right. Hope this helps you out a bit.
There are tons of ways to get good sound from a trunk. The ports are not tubed from the boxes, the Eclipse subs don't do well in a ported enclosure. Some others such as Rockford Fosgate love a ported enclosure, assuming it is properly constructed. My trunk is effectively a 4th order band pass box, or basically a sealed box inside for a larger ported box (that being the trunk). So the port length was calculated based upon the expected performance of the woofer in the sealed enclosure. So just like you would calculated a port in a vented enclosure based on the raw drivers specs, I took those driver specs, built the sealed enclosure, then took those results and used them to calculate port length.
The porting does a few things, it allowed me to "tune"¨ the box to resonate at 38hz, which is a bit lower than I would usually go, most of the time I tune around 44-48hz that¡¦s where most of the music is, yes even rap stuff
There is a little bit of music below there but not a significant amount to go any lower IMHO. Although it does depend on your listening habits, and more importantly the capabilities of the driver you choose. The 8812 DVC''s will go way on down there, and roll off is minimal within their given frequency response. The introduction of the ports also stops that annoying trunk rattle, the pressure has some place to go, and doesn't have to "bang'¨ its way through our trunks. It makes for a smother sound, and a louder more efficient system. There is NO WAY I would consider putting a subwoofer(s) in a trunks without some sort of porting or venting into the cabin, I know everyone has heard the ¡§ghetto knock¡¨ it¡¦s just not for me, but to each his own, another subject I suppose
And as you pointed out, there is a lot of stuff between the trunk and the cabin, very well insulated. So realistically, a "vent"¨ or a true tuned port build is really the only way to do it right. Hope this helps you out a bit.
Originally posted by sealevel
Autohype-
....Hope this helps you out a bit.
Autohype-
....Hope this helps you out a bit.
to go for what I want - hard hittng, crisp bass that makes ya go whoa....
when you ported to the rear deck, did you have to seal all the little "holes" on the rear deck?
Thanks again for the info sealevel.....
no you really don't need to seal everything else up, the holes are not really large enough to matter. One thing I would do is get some sound killing material liek Dynamat or similar. Put it on the trunk lid, and under the rear deck, it helps a bunch.
and you are welcome......
and you are welcome......


